Low voltage at idle

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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GHGoodwin
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by GHGoodwin » Tue Sep 14, 2021 5:04 pm

Today I would not jump start bike-to-bike unless it was an emergency. Electronics are too sensitive to voltage blasts. Anyway it's too easy to carry a small emergency charger pack pack that will handle it. I keep one on each bike and have used them on others rides more times than I'd like to admit.
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by Eric N » Tue Sep 14, 2021 7:40 pm

willt wrote:
Tue Sep 14, 2021 4:40 pm
It looks like I will be shopping for LEDs. And a new battery. It did not start this morning without an hour of charge.
Without knowing what the bike was doing before. If you were riding normal, parked it, turned it off, and then had to charge an hour the next morning to start, it's very likely a battery problem.

The AGM batteries I've had in Urals seem to blow cells if the battery is down and then a load is applied. For example, prior owner left the bike "on", let the lights drain the battery, then tried to start it without fully recharging first.

Bad batteries will also exasperate the lack of charge at idle. A normal good battery can idle for a fair amount of time without dipping too low, whereas one with a bad cell will drop pretty quick. Bad cells also will let you get a few attempts with an electric start before it gives up, good battery has much better cranking.

Lots of battery choices, I tend to just do a Yuasa YTX20L-BS from Amazon. If bought from Amazon, you'll need to do the acid fill/ charge before installing. It's easy enough and a Battery Tender does fine on the initial charging.
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by windmill » Tue Sep 14, 2021 9:39 pm

willt wrote:
Tue Sep 14, 2021 4:40 pm
It looks like I will be shopping for LEDs.
FYI, most aftermarket LEDs that are affordable are garbage, providing poor light for the user, yet blinding for oncoming traffic. A LED bulb that mimics the configuration of a Halogen bulb will work great with a standard H4 headlight.

Here's a well proven, plug and play LED bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/Auxbeam-Headligh ... 275&sr=8-5

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=51160&hilit=auxbeam&start=45
Barry

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by Desantnik-VDV » Tue Sep 14, 2021 11:14 pm

Eric N wrote:
Tue Sep 14, 2021 7:40 pm
willt wrote:
Tue Sep 14, 2021 4:40 pm
It looks like I will be shopping for LEDs. And a new battery. It did not start this morning without an hour of charge.
Without knowing what the bike was doing before. If you were riding normal, parked it, turned it off, and then had to charge an hour the next morning to start, it's very likely a battery problem.

The AGM batteries I've had in Urals seem to blow cells if the battery is down and then a load is applied. For example, prior owner left the bike "on", let the lights drain the battery, then tried to start it without fully recharging first.

Bad batteries will also exasperate the lack of charge at idle. A normal good battery can idle for a fair amount of time without dipping too low, whereas one with a bad cell will drop pretty quick. Bad cells also will let you get a few attempts with an electric start before it gives up, good battery has much better cranking.

Lots of battery choices, I tend to just do a Yuasa YTX20L-BS from Amazon. If bought from Amazon, you'll need to do the acid fill/ charge before installing. It's easy enough and a Battery Tender does fine on the initial charging.
I like Yuasa better than the orange/red ones (Odyssey).

However, if you add a letter H to your Yuasa, you'll get a bigger in cranking amps battery - Yuasa YTX20HL-BS (310 CCA). That if an EFI bike has enough space to accommodate one.
Alex
2007 GearUp - BMD (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMD-3)
40 idle/130 main/ 1.5 shim (0.8 mm washer)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The rest is just history... 4 previous Urals with telescopic front ends, BMW airheads, bigger Hondas, bigger sidecars...

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by willt » Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:45 am

Will it fit in an 2019 EFI bike?

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by aduthie » Wed Sep 15, 2021 9:20 am

Yes, the YTX20H and YTX20 (and YTX20HL and YTX20L) are the same size. The L version puts the positive terminal behind the left side cover. The non-L puts the negative terminal on the left. Ural switch to the non-L in 2019 because it’s a bit safer having the negative post be the one that’s easy to disconnect.

(The -BS just means the battery ships dry, with a six-cell acid pack. These are great, because the battery can sit on the shelf for a few decades and still be genuinely new when you finally activate it with the acid. Factory-activated batteries are fine, but the longer they sit on the shelf, the more likely they’ll fail early.)
Andrew Duthie / Nashville Motorcycle Repair / Nashville, TN

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by willt » Wed Sep 15, 2021 9:21 am

aduthie wrote:
Wed Sep 15, 2021 9:20 am
Yes, the YTX20H and YTX20 (and YTX20HL and YTX20L) are the same size. The L version puts the positive terminal behind the left side cover. The non-L puts the negative terminal on the left. Ural switch to the non-L in 2019 because it’s a bit safer having the negative post be the one that’s easy to disconnect.

(The -BS just means the battery ships dry, with a six-cell acid pack. These are great, because the battery can sit on the shelf for a few decades and still be genuinely new when you finally activate it with the acid. Factory-activated batteries are fine, but the longer they sit on the shelf, the more likely they’ll fail early.)
Thank you,
Wm

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by treebone » Wed Sep 15, 2021 10:44 am

Thanks Aduthie, that is solid, to the point info. I wish your dealership was here in Nevada.
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by cookiemech » Wed Sep 15, 2021 1:02 pm

treebone wrote:
Wed Sep 15, 2021 10:44 am
Thanks Aduthie, that is solid, to the point info. I wish your dealership was here in Nevada.
No way! I want him to move to Pittsburgh :wink:
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by RC20 » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:26 pm

Your Interstate Dealer should have the Yuasa and they don't fill in advance - they usually have one ready to go but only takes a short time if not and or you call ahead.
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by willt » Mon Sep 20, 2021 6:21 pm

I went to my local dealer and asked if they could match the lowest price I could find on-line... they did.

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by Desantnik-VDV » Mon Sep 20, 2021 6:34 pm

Charging a new battery takes time to charge fully or at least up to 75% charge capacity. It at least takes 10 hours or so (if I remember it correctly )...

What is the normal charge rate for my Yuasa battery?
Naturally, batteries of different capacities require different charge rates. Generally, a battery should be charged at a slow charge rate of 1/10 its given 10 hr. capacity.
Alex
2007 GearUp - BMD (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMD-3)
40 idle/130 main/ 1.5 shim (0.8 mm washer)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The rest is just history... 4 previous Urals with telescopic front ends, BMW airheads, bigger Hondas, bigger sidecars...

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by willt » Mon Sep 20, 2021 7:26 pm

I think mine was labeled 1.8A for 5 to 10 hours.

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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by Mr Wazzock » Tue Sep 21, 2021 1:35 pm

Just for the record, I had to replace my battery back in April (2021, for 2016 CT) - was slowly losing capacity until one day it wouldn't turn over after being off the charger only 5 days. Normally that wouldn't be a problem. The charger is a small Optimate and used every couple of weeks or so, if bike not ridden for whatever reason. In spite of the Optimate, battery still failed - and I don't llike keeping it permanently connrected either. For connecting a battery charger, IMO some sort of purpose-fitted pigtail or power socket is best to plug into, so no clamps. (There is or was somewhere a story about a garage burned down because a charger with clamps was left on a bike.)

As regards the electronics, provided the charger Volts is not too high, and I think modern 'intelligent' ones should be safe, say around 14.5V max probably, shouldn't be any problems.
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Re: Low voltage at idle

Post by willt » Tue Sep 21, 2021 2:37 pm

I have a 10 year old Optimate-4. Best trickle charger I ever had. Well worth the money. I too like to charge a battery on it for a couple days days then give it a week or two off.

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