2019/2020 Starter Problem and Wiring Harness Fix

[tubarick]

I just received a sheet from Heindl Engineering due to a wiring harness problem in 2019 & 2020 rigs. The .pdf file is too big to add. Here are slightly edited instructions.

1. Remove the left side battery cover and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the fuse box, exposing the wiring.
3. Locate the blue/brown wire going to terminal location B10. Cut the wire on the harness side and fold it back. Protect the cut end with shrink tubing. Strip the other end of the wire.
4. Locate the yellow wire going to terminal Location A1. Cut the yellow wire mid way and strip both ends.
5. Fabricate a jump wire and splice it into the yellow wire at A1.
6. Connect the jump wire to the blue/brown wire at B10.
7 Solder all connections and protect with shrink tubing.
8. Replace the fuse box, reconnect the negative battery terminal and replace the battery cover.

When finished, the yellow wire will connect to both terminal locations A1 and B10. This will solve the problem of not enough voltage passing through B10 to the starter.

[Crosshair]

Can you upload the PDF file on FB?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1048969185173384/files/

[sbaker]

Thanks !!!

[RC20]

Could you contact me via email and send that PDF to me.

We are not on Facebook. I don't know I need it but a good one to stash for others.

[Kaliram]

Thank you for these directions and link to the pdf on Facebook. It fixed the intermittent starting problem on my 2019 Gear Up.

[WEGUNTER]

Hey Rick, just curious about what happened. What were the symptoms????? So far my rig starts with in a split second after hitting the starter. Is there something I need to keep an eye on?????

[RC20]

In my case its intermittent. 95% of the time it fire right up like a fine Swiss 180 deg opposed piston engine (or is that BMW?)

Then the click and nada. Off on or a couple of shots and it takes off (so far)

Ergo, its the next one on my list to do.

Only started after I got back home from the pickup trip.

[Michael W]

I had a few no start ( just click) problems, thought it was the battery. Changed battery, work for a week. Then a few no start on fist push of buttons. Did the harness fix, no more problems, starts fist push, no more click.

[dale914]

I left mine on a charger and now it just goes "Click". It happened as I was a touch late to head to the airport to catch a flight, so thank goodness for that kick starter.

EDIT: and FORWARNING TO ANYONE AS DUMB AS MYSELF:
I went ahead and did the fix as outlined above, buttoned it all up and "Click" oh I was so mad at everything swapped all of the relays, inspected all the fuses, but then I calmed enough to inspect the starter and saw a sad little wire dangling loose, I reconnected it and it started right up, so.... sometimes it's not the Heindel fix, sometimes it's just a sad loose wire. BUT now I have that fix accomplished for the future!

[Pterodactyl]

Takes maybe 1/2 hour. I did Spousal Unit’s 2019.

[stagewex]

Cool. I don't have a 2019 or 2020 but good for due diligence from the company going forward.
So was this kinda a voluntary or official recall or heads-up from your dealer or from the mothership itself too?

Sounds like everybody/anybody with a '19 or '20 should receive the information.

[Geckoboy49]

I just received a sheet from Heindl Engineering due to a wiring harness problem in 2019 & 2020 rigs. The .pdf file is too big to add. Here are slightly edited instructions.

1. Remove the left side battery cover and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the fuse box, exposing the wiring.
3. Locate the blue/brown wire going to terminal location B10. Cut the wire on the harness side and fold it back. Protect the cut end with shrink tubing. Strip the other end of the wire.
4. Locate the yellow wire going to terminal Location A1. Cut the yellow wire mid way and strip both ends.
5. Fabricate a jump wire and splice it into the yellow wire at A1.
6. Connect the jump wire to the blue/brown wire at B10.
7 Solder all connections and protect with shrink tubing.
8. Replace the fuse box, reconnect the negative battery terminal and replace the battery cover.

When finished, the yellow wire will connect to both terminal locations A1 and B10. This will solve the problem of not enough voltage passing through B10 to the starter.

So, these edited steps don't address what to do with the harness end of yellow wire, but the PDF file shows it being re-connected to the fuse box end of same wire. I don't get why it would be necessary or even preferable to cut this wire in the first place rather than just use a quick splice t-tap connector. That way, the connection is intact on yellow and the jumper to blue/brown at B10 could just come off the t-tap. Am I missing something.

[RC20]

I will go over it as I have the file now.

A T tap has the issue of not the greatest connection. I did it on the tach hookup but that has tiny current flow.

I just pulled it up. What they are doing is maintaining the yellow feed while a direct feed from the yellow wire to the blue brown into the harness.

I have not tried to foolow the wiring diagram but it looks to be a voltage drop issue, so you are jumping a non dropped power source to where you need full power to get it to crank.

Ergo, you want as solid connection as possible.

When I do mine, I will either use a crimp terminal or a crimp terminal with built in sealing goop. You con't want that connection to corrode. They don't say how they do it but it looks like they soldered and used a shrink tube.

I am a bit leary of soldering those though it will work. I have anti oxydent goop on hand I use as a sealing agent.

[Geckoboy49]

I will go over it as I have the file now.

A T tap has the issue of not the greatest connection. I did it on the tach hookup but that has tiny current flow.

I just pulled it up. What they are doing is maintaining the yellow feed while a direct feed from the yellow wire to the blue brown into the harness.

I have not tried to foolow the wiring diagram but it looks to be a voltage drop issue, so you are jumping a non dropped power source to where you need full power to get it to crank.

Ergo, you want as solid connection as possible.

When I do mine, I will either use a crimp terminal or a crimp terminal with built in sealing goop. You con't want that connection to corrode. They don't say how they do it but it looks like they soldered and used a shrink tube.

I am a bit leary of soldering those though it will work. I have anti oxydent goop on hand I use as a sealing agent.

The direct feed from yellow wire is to the fusebox end of the blue/brown, not the harness. I like the idea of crimp terminal. Is there one in "T" style which would make the jumper to blue/green easy?

[RC20]

Looking more at the connector setup so missed the right links to what.

There is a tri way crimp, but I have never used them. Rivet in the middle which might be ok but I don't like any corrosion surfaces.

I just use a large enough crimp that two wires fit in one end and make sure the other end has the anti ox or the sealing goo.

Heat shrink is a possible as well. A bit mixed on that as you can't see the connection but if done right should seal. I have not done any lately in that possible corrosion environment. I have seen corrosion run up plug in heater wires so far as to either have to replace the whole thing or just live with it (not happily but outside on the car - mid winter, not garage and ....)