center stand mods?

[Thermos]

So I went out with the wife to go swimming, and on the way back I got a flat on the pusher. So, I put it on the center stand, go the tire off, and by the time I was to put the spare on, the center stand had sunk into the asphalt about an inch. That made it difficult enough so I had to get out the bottle jack.

Do some folks carry like a metal plate or something else to put beneath the center stand so it won't sink down? Any better ideas?

-T

[cdscoot]

So I went out with the wife to go swimming, and on the way back I got a flat on the pusher. So, I put it on the center stand, go the tire off, and by the time I was to put the spare on, the center stand had sunk into the asphalt about an inch. That made it difficult enough so I had to get out the bottle jack.

Do some folks carry like a metal plate or something else to put beneath the center stand so it won't sink down? Any better ideas?

-T

The top plate to a junction box works wonders!

[a1930ford]

[cdscoot]

You could get one of those metal grates for the grill and carry it with you . If you need it under the center stand use it there - if not you are all set for the campfire!

[kawzak]

I took mine off when I removed the mid pipes. The stand hit the mufflers when I moved them up-so I thought- If I build a smaller/lighter jack, I can use it at the old center stand location/under side car/ front @ engine to change any of the tires. I settled on a home made small screw jack that has 5" lift from contact with the center stand pivot shaft. I put the pivot shaft back on after I slid a slightly longer piece of 1/2" claer vinyl tubing over between the side mounts-so te pivot shaft would not rattle. So I lost a few pounds and now have a jack I can use to change any of the (3) wheels. I forgot to add-the base of my little jack is 1/2" thick aluminum that is 2" x 3". So I think it will not push into the ground/asphalt very easily.

[Thermos]

I took mine off when I removed the mid pipes. The stand hit the mufflers when I moved them up-so I thought- If I build a smaller/lighter jack, I can use it at the old center stand location/under side car/ front @ engine to change any of the tires. I settled on a home made small screw jack that has 5" lift from contact with the center stand pivot shaft. I put the pivot shaft back on after I slid a slightly longer piece of 1/2" claer vinyl tubing over between the side mounts-so te pivot shaft would not rattle. So I lost a few pounds and now have a jack I can use to change any of the (3) wheels. I forgot to add-the base of my little jack is 1/2" thick aluminum that is 2" x 3". So I think it will not push into the ground/asphalt very easily.

I don't want to loose the center stand. I find it convenient in most cases. The fact that I needed to get out a jack was aggravating at the time.




-T

[Thermos]

Squished up beer can or soda can works in a pinch. I'd bet that if you had a couple of those mechanic metal bowls with magnets on the bottom, like you can get at Harbor Freight or an any auto store, you could easily attach them inside the walls of the trunk and use them for such just such an event or as dog bowls for water. Actually lots of various uses when you get creative. They don't take up any real space and hang in there ready for use. I haven't done this to make sure it works, but I am betting it would.

I like the idea of the magnetic metal bowls!!


-T

[ReCycled]

I like putting a 2"x4" under the inside leg of the centerstand whenever I plan to pull the rear wheel. The extra height and space just makes the process easier, especially if a knobby is involved.

Getting the bike on the centerstand is difficult enough when the rear is flat, the extra 1 1/2" makes it nearly impossible. In addition the first piece of 2x4, I also carry two more pieces screwed together to make it 3" thick. I first roll the back tire on to the single 2x4 and then the double. Now that the back of the bike is raised, I place the single 2x4 under the inside leg of centerstand and roll the bike back. The additional 1 1/2" mechanical advantage means it pops right on to the centerstand without any effort.

To space save, these pieces need only be 4"-6" long. But I prefer the doubled piece to be longer and can then be used as a sturdy prop to hold the front wheel high off the ground when the centerstand is deployed as described and the rig is sitting on the two rear wheels.

[pjarmstrongaz]

a scooter shop I used to go to had giveaway kiktsand platorms. These were made o plasti so I'm not sure they would be hardy ehough or the Ural. But maybe your loal bike shop has these.

[kawzak]

If nothing else, go to a Metal Fabrication shop. have them cut you a 4" x 10" x 1/8" thick piece of aluminum. Round off the corners. Drill (1) small hole near a corner so you can run a bright colored piece of nylon string. loop the string over the handle bar. That way you don't have to crawl under the bike to get it-and the colored string will remind you it is there. Plus it weighs almost nothing.

[Niteblues]

I like putting a 2"x4" under the inside leg of the centerstand whenever I plan to pull the rear wheel. The extra height and space just makes the process easier, especially if a knobby is involved.

Getting the bike on the centerstand is difficult enough when the rear is flat, the extra 1 1/2" makes it nearly impossible. In addition the first piece of 2x4, I also carry two more pieces screwed together to make it 3" thick. I first roll the back tire on to the single 2x4 and then the double. Now that the back of the bike is raised, I place the single 2x4 under the inside leg of centerstand and roll the bike back. The additional 1 1/2" mechanical advantage means it pops right on to the centerstand without any effort.

To space save, these pieces need only be 4"-6" long. But I prefer the doubled piece to be longer and can then be used as a sturdy prop to hold the front wheel high off the ground when the centerstand is deployed as described and the rig is sitting on the two rear wheels.

You must have taught me that, 'cause that's exactly what I have and use.

[Thermos]

I like putting a 2"x4" under the inside leg of the centerstand whenever I plan to pull the rear wheel. The extra height and space just makes the process easier, especially if a knobby is involved.

Getting the bike on the centerstand is difficult enough when the rear is flat, the extra 1 1/2" makes it nearly impossible. In addition the first piece of 2x4, I also carry two more pieces screwed together to make it 3" thick. I first roll the back tire on to the single 2x4 and then the double. Now that the back of the bike is raised, I place the single 2x4 under the inside leg of centerstand and roll the bike back. The additional 1 1/2" mechanical advantage means it pops right on to the centerstand without any effort.

To space save, these pieces need only be 4"-6" long. But I prefer the doubled piece to be longer and can then be used as a sturdy prop to hold the front wheel high off the ground when the centerstand is deployed as described and the rig is sitting on the two rear wheels.

You wouldn't have any pictures of this process, would you?

-T

[ReCycled]

You wouldn't have any pictures of this process, would you?

-T

The doubled piece was cut to fit the width of the trunk, any shorter and I would worry about rolling off the back before the centerstand was fully deployed. The single can be smaller but again, a larger target makes it easier.

DSCF0001[1].JPG

Line up the single then double behind the rear tire.

DSCF0005[1].JPG

Roll the bike back.

DSCF0007[1].JPG

Line up the single under the centerstand.

DSCF0009[1].JPG

Pulling up/back on centerstand should be a little easier as you now have an 1 1/2" advantage.

DSCF0010[1].JPG

Look at how much ground clearance is gained, this makes servicing easier.

DSCF0011[1].JPG

Now the double is free to prop the front of the bike for front end service.

DSCF0013[1].JPG

After I packed things back in the trunk I did it again as I realized this was an opportunity to mention an important safety practice. Whenever you place the bike on the centerstand and remove the rear wheel there is a serious risk of damage or injury should the bike roll forward. This may be because of the slope, footing, or simply because you are wrestling with something to fit. A very easy and secure way to prevent this is to run a strap between the front wheel and the indside leg of the centerstand.

DSCF0015[1].JPG

[Thermos]

You wouldn't have any pictures of this process, would you?

-T

The doubled piece was cut to fit the width of the trunk, any shorter and I would worry about rolling off the back before the centerstand was fully deployed. The single can be smaller but again, a larger target makes it easier.

DSCF0001[1].JPG

Line up the single then double behind the rear tire.

DSCF0005[1].JPG

Roll the bike back.

DSCF0007[1].JPG

Line up the single under the centerstand.

DSCF0009[1].JPG

Pulling up/back on centerstand should be a little easier as you now have an 1 1/2" advantage.

DSCF0010[1].JPG

Look at how much ground clearance is gained, this makes servicing easier.

DSCF0011[1].JPG

Now the double is free to prop the front of the bike for front end service.

DSCF0013[1].JPG

After I packed things back in the trunk I did it again as I realized this was an opportunity to mention an important safety practice. Whenever you place the bike on the centerstand and remove the rear wheel there is a serious risk of damage or injury should the bike roll forward. This may be because of the slope, footing, or simply because you are wrestling with something to fit. A very easy and secure way to prevent this is to run a strap between the front wheel and the indside leg of the centerstand.

DSCF0015[1].JPG

Thank you for taking the time to post this info with pictures! That is so simple, I will do just that this afternoon when I switch out tires.

Awesome-

-T

[Thermos]

I just changed out rear tires using the 2 by 4 method, and it works so easy! I was able to remove my continental knobby tire(super aggressive tread) very easy with the extra clearance!. Thanks ReCycled!

-T