Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Start oil threads here so they can be ignored and/or ridiculed by most of us (except for those hardcore few that live for that kinda stuff).
Forum rules
Here's the place for you to debate what oil is best. Post your oil related topics her so we don't clutter up the other sections. Most people avoid oil threads like the plague.
JNRIII
New Member
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:05 pm

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by JNRIII » Sat May 27, 2017 10:45 pm

Why did the member suggest 85-140 in the trans , not the 20-50 ????

JNRIII
New Member
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:05 pm

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by JNRIII » Sat May 27, 2017 10:47 pm

Why did the member suggest 85-140 in the differential, not 85-90 and why gear in the trans , not the 20-50 ???? Please , what is the rationale ??? JNRIII

JNRIII
New Member
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:05 pm

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions. TransMission dipstick

Post by JNRIII » Sat May 27, 2017 10:52 pm

My 2014 T doesn't have a dipstick in the trans, just a plug with a magnet. Was that maybe wrong from the factory ? Other members have mentioned a dipstick in the trans . Should I buy one from parts ???? Thanx JNRIII

User avatar
chaos2
Order of Suvarov
Order of Suvarov
Posts: 4357
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:58 am
Location: sw ohio

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by chaos2 » Sat May 27, 2017 11:02 pm

Magnetic plug on the transmission fill is normal, fill to bottom of threads. The magnet on the fill usually picks up more swarf than the one on the drain plug. I'd just stick to the factory recommendations for oil in the engine, trans and rear until you get a good feel for what you want change.
past afflictions include TR motocars and bikes, R60/2 & a R65, MGs, and a Citroen.
Now a 2012 FF GU and an 87 K75s
dual K&N cones on PVC intake, 40/137.5
Raceway needles
Modtop exhaust
$29 VW Hydraulic steering dampener

JNRIII
New Member
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:05 pm

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by JNRIII » Fri Sep 29, 2017 9:11 pm

Mr Wazzock stated » Tue May 23, 2017 7:33 pm

Engine: 20W-50, or 20W-60, fully synth.
Gearbox: 75W-90, fully synth. Thicker makes cog swapping a bit smoother.
Final drive: 85W-140 gear & rear axle oil. Again thicker discourages it leaking out past the input shaft seal*. For the same reason, only fill to 20cc less** than what the book says (capacities are different depending whether 1wd or 2wd). E.g. 1wd, 90cc; 2wd, 110cc (I think).

I wanted to know, why gear oil 75w90 in the trans? I think the manual says 20w50

Also, why 85-140 in the rear end ? Again I think the manual says 75-90 .

Can you explain your experience and reasons for a newbie ?????

gobium
Order of Victory
Order of Victory
Posts: 14876
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:06 pm

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by gobium » Sat Sep 30, 2017 8:22 am

The tricks on Ural are!
Use the very cheap wal-mart or wallyworld oils But change oil often, often!
Take it from a guy that owned a few ural
Unlike Darell he used very expensive oil. :lol: in Babe

gobium
Order of Victory
Order of Victory
Posts: 14876
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:06 pm

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by gobium » Sat Sep 30, 2017 8:25 am

Screenshot_20170930-082412.jpeg
Ural is not race bike
Use lawnmover oil
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

RC20
Comrade Colonel
Comrade Colonel
Posts: 280
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:59 am
Location: Anchorage AK

Re: Noobie 2016 cT oil questions.

Post by RC20 » Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:16 pm

Bilgekeeldave wrote:Just get oil at an autoparts store. There is no oil made that is worth having it shipped in from god knows where. The tiny difference between the lubricity of different brands of oil is negligible. I don't know what the Ural factory recommends for oil specifications, but just get any brand of that.
My thoughts and perspective:

While any oil will work and frequent enough intervals keep it from an issue, not all oils are so close as to make no difference.

I prefer synthetics either for high temp or low temp reasons. For high temp you change regular oil often enough and you clear out the break down from a high temp run. Works fine and it did fine back in the day.

Synthetic allows you to keep the same oil for longer. Finding oil disposal and equipment to do the work on the road is an issue (find a dealer that will allow you ? - at issue is they don't know whats been in the engine - someone puts in the wrong additive and changes the mix (we had PCBs get into a company oil one time) and the SH1T hits the fan. I had a drum come up with that as well. Said drum was the cause though they would not admit that. It was close and we were able to split the analysis between two drums and get it removed without the hullaballoo. Chevron sure never put PCBs into Dello oil and thats all that engine got.

So for a long trip synthetic has the advantage of not breaking down nearly as fast. Saves diversions and time spent not enjoying the trip.

For me, its low temp starting and no oil can replace the ability of synthetic to let you do that. Cycle batteries don't have that much RCA to work with. My CB700 had not kick start. The R80GS might as well not have. My back won't take it anymore anyway!

Other than Ural clearances are tighter and better flow faster is an advantage. Some auto mfgs require it. Air cooled engines by their nature don't benefit from that part.

No right or wrongs, just understanding and the trade offs. You can add a bit of help with the right oils overall longevity wise. BMW with the separate gear box (Ural as well of course) does not have the same issue with shear the gears cause in most cycles.

We handled that back in the day with good oil and frequent changes.
100k estimated cycle driving:

Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Switchgear/ Generators/Fire Pumps/Computer Controlled Building Systems

Post Reply