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Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:45 pm
by Mr Wazzock
Watching the video several times, pretty sure it's every wheel rotation.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 8:22 pm
by MiddleAgedMissile
Donut is fine. Attempted to reverse out of garage to load on trailer and it would not go into gear and emitted a very loud grinding noise. At one full tire rotation it clanks and shudders in the same place. She’s going to dealer, the gasoline can and matches are too near at hand right now and too much on my plate.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 6:02 am
by CrankyTom
Lokiboy wrote:
Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:51 am
CrankyTom wrote:
Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:35 am
I've had an occasional SLIGHT clunk on my 2012 if the sidecar wheel bearings need adjusting.
Easy to check,just grab the top of the sidecar wheel and give it a pull laterally,there should not be a lot of play.
Where is it and how do you adjust it?
If it's the same as a 2012 the adjusting nut (the one holding the wheel on the axle) is under the hub capon the sidecar - but that sound on your video is way,way,WAY louder than anything on my rig,got to be something else.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 1:05 pm
by stagewex
Since your first post was just 2 days ago and you said you just picked the bike up can you go back to the seller or dealer. It's too inconvenient for that to happen right away and I'm unsure if the missing FD bolt (and the other loose one) contributed to the issue. It certainly didn't help.
So sorry to read this.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 5:32 pm
by Mr Wazzock
I'm thinking broken tooth on the ring gear. :(

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2020 2:42 pm
by MiddleAgedMissile
Three broken teeth and lots of metal flying around. Dealer quoted $2200 complete parts and labor for a replacement but just found out that drive is backordered until 21 Nov.
If I can find a unit faster I will do it myself, saving money and hopefully some time.
Welcome advice on a reliable source for parts.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2020 3:45 pm
by cookiemech
I think Mr. Wazzock is due his customary fee for diagnostics :wink:

Seriously, very sorry to hear of such troubles with a recently-purchased machine. I hope you have some recourse with the seller.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2020 7:27 pm
by Desantnik-VDV
You may try contacting Randy mailto:randy@uniqueridesco.com for his closeout sale:
viewtopic.php?f=13&p=740745#p740434

Gene Langford at Holopaw https://uralofholopaw.com/

Terry Crawford http://www.crawfordsales.info/

All three of them are in similar distance from you. They might have it in stock and could ship it sooner.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:41 pm
by MiddleAgedMissile
Desantnik-VDV wrote:
Wed Oct 28, 2020 7:27 pm
You may try contacting Randy mailto:randy@uniqueridesco.com for his closeout sale:
viewtopic.php?f=13&p=740745#p740434

Gene Langford at Holopaw https://uralofholopaw.com/

Terry Crawford http://www.crawfordsales.info/

All three of them are in similar distance from you. They might have it in stock and could ship it sooner.
Thanks for the references. I will follow up when I get the bike back to my garage.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2020 6:41 am
by rougaroo
You said you have a shop. Depending on your mechanical skills and/or ambition, you can rebuild the FD yourself for well under ~$800 (haven't priced the parts recently, but that's close). The job is well-documented step-by-step at BillyG's myural. com and on a number of threads here on SS.

$2200 sounds steep, but then they're charging hourly rates on labor at shop time. It probably breaks out to $1000 parts plus markup and $1200 labor.

Do it yourself and pay yourself $1200+. Take the wife out to dinner on the Ural and smile.

Rougaroo

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2020 4:58 pm
by Mr Wazzock
Image

Image

$2,200 does sound too much to me. :o

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2020 5:01 pm
by Mr Wazzock
cookiemech wrote:
Wed Oct 28, 2020 3:45 pm
I think Mr. Wazzock is due his customary fee for diagnostics :wink:
-
I-hate-being-right-all-the-time.jpg
-
(No but not ALL the time :D )

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2020 10:44 pm
by rougaroo
I looked on the reimbursement sheet for dealers and Ural allows 2.8 hours for complete removal, disassembly, reassembly, and installation of the 2WD FD. That's from an old sheet from 2005 - it may have changed, but probably not by much. I'd put money down that even Van can't do it in 2.8 hours, and that presumes having all the parts on hand. (Watch - Van's gonna read this and try to see if he can beat it). When we were out in Redmond Van disassembled a hydrolocked engine in under 40 minutes with Sergei watching.

I don't think any normal human even with skills can do the job that fast. Maybe Sergei, but then all he works on is Urals and for years now. The problem Ural owners have with most dealers is that the dealers don't do enough Ural work to get good at it, plus mechanics notoriously move on to somewhere else. I'm exempting the dealers like Gene, Terry, Heindl, Ski, Ural NE, etc who sell and service a lot of Urals. I'd estimate 4 hours, and again that's having all the replacement parts on hand.

So depending on your dealer's shop rate, he's hitting you up for 8-10 hours of shop time. No sin, but I think he's learning on your bike.

Rougaroo

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:02 am
by BinDerSmokDat
I'm late to the party but I know a thing of 3 about breaking FD's....

A clunk every wheel rotation and/or wheel not spinning has been a ring gear in my experience.
Quickest check, pull FD plug, if there is metal exceeding normal swarf, you got a problem.
STOP riding and get it trailered, you can F-up the case by continuing to ride. There is little free space in there and the chunks of ring gear can get caught between carrier and case . Steel gear teeth vs. aluminum case = case loses.
You probably had a tooth break and that caused the rest of your issues.

Of my 3 FD failures, twice it was a broken tooth on the ring gear.
The third was a combination of pinion nut not seated correctly and/or pinion bearing failure, kind of a chicken/egg thing, not sure what happened.
The ring gear was chewed up pretty bad, no completely broken teeth but some big chunks.
I tightened the pinion nut down, flushed FD and it survived a long hard weekend of off-roading in the rocks.

I rebuilt TWO FD's recently and it was around $700 in parts, replacing almost all bearings, seals, ring gear bolts, some internal spacers AND two ring and pinion sets. Both were built out to new/better than new spec for that case design. A few of the seals and bearings were actually upgrades over stock (better seal material, better class of bearing.) That price even included bags of hardware with some left over for future uses, ring bolts, new Nylok nuts for the newer case, new ring bolts, new nuts and split washers for the older case.

Get the FD apart, check out BIlly G's site, my FD thread and call Terry Crawford.
If you have a vice, patience and a little mechanical skill, it's not that hard.
The biggest issue is usually backing out the ring gear bolts, hence why you need a vice and possibly a little heat.
The vice is also handy for holding parts while you tap bearings and seals in place.

Re: Final Drive-Driveshaft Clunk

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:16 am
by BinDerSmokDat
Billy G's page has nice pics of the order, techniques and tools.
My thread has additional close-ups, internal parts changes over the years, etc.

I wouldn't have attempted my 1st rebuild without Billy G's page.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=30207

http://myural.com/final_drive_disassembly_with_2wd.htm