My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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Here is the place for you to ask questions about or share your experiences about servicing or repairing your Ural or Dnepr. Please post topics concering modifications or accesories in the "Modifications and Acessories" section. Please post oil related questions in the "Oil Threads" section.
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Orangecicle
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:45 pm

My pup's first ride:


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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Wed Dec 04, 2019 7:10 pm

My daughter's first ride.


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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Wed Dec 04, 2019 11:43 pm

15 mile plug check. The right jug looks good:

Image

The left jug is . . . a little fat:

Image

The bike is running but is really boggy when you try any type of hard accelleration. I think it has 90 mains in the K68s, whereas the mains in the K65s were more like 65 (or something like that). Regardless, the mains in the 65 I know were smaller. I might experiment on the jetting. I know that I need to go in and clean out the carbs, so there's just some more work to do there. It has some indicator lighting issues, and the clutch cable leaves much to be desired.

More to come. :cheers:

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Claus » Thu Dec 05, 2019 4:56 am

For me the right one seems too lean. The left one too ritch
Try to enritchen the right one by turning the pilot screw 1/4 turn in. This will help with acceleration, too. And the left one 1/4 turn out.
You want to see light to dark brownish color on the ceramic insulator.
In my K68 I reamed the mains to real 90 (they were smaller when I measured them). If it´s still really boggy with true 90 mains, you could try to hang the needles one step higher and ride it again. If it doesn´t get better, hang the needles down again and try the next larger main jet.
I reckon, you´re on the right way...

(edit: I found 95 mains in my K68)
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, 95 Suzuki DR 650 RSE, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:09 am

Claus wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 4:56 am
For me the right one seems too lean. The left one too ritch
Try to enritchen the right one by turning the pilot screw 1/4 turn in. This will help with acceleration, too. And the left one 1/4 turn out.
You want to see light to dark brownish color on the ceramic insulator.
In my K68 I reamed the mains to real 90 (they were smaller when I measured them). If it´s still really boggy with true 90 mains, you could try to hang the needles one step higher and ride it again. If it doesn´t get better, hang the needles down again and try the next larger main jet.
I reckon, you´re on the right way...

(edit: I found 95 mains in my K68)
:thumbsup:

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:03 am

Question for the group: How do you secure the bike when parked in public? I use a disc lock on my KTM 690. I was thinking maybe a mesh cable around a wheel in combination with a simple disc lock.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Bilgekeeldave » Thu Dec 05, 2019 12:19 pm

Orangecicle wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:03 am
Question for the group: How do you secure the bike when parked in public? I use a disc lock on my KTM 690. I was thinking maybe a mesh cable around a wheel in combination with a simple disc lock.
I just put it in reverse. It is highly unlikely that a thief will know about the reverse gear, let alone how to get it out of reverse.
Dave

RAMCO-Dnepr MT-16

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Thu Dec 05, 2019 1:33 pm

Bilgekeeldave wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 12:19 pm
Orangecicle wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:03 am
Question for the group: How do you secure the bike when parked in public? I use a disc lock on my KTM 690. I was thinking maybe a mesh cable around a wheel in combination with a simple disc lock.
I just put it in reverse. It is highly unlikely that a thief will know about the reverse gear, let alone how to get it out of reverse.
:lol: True. However, we did have a resourceful thief who pushed a Ducati from our office down the street for a couple of miles. He butchered the wiring harness trying to start something that would only start with a smart key, so the bike was recovered. I don't want to see the same happen to my bike, should someone figure out how to un-reverse it.

My bike also needs a name. Maybe "Natasha Fatale."

Image

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Bilgekeeldave » Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:20 pm

I don't have a name for my rig. It is just, "the Dnepr". I think naming things must skip a generation, my parents named all their cars.
Dave

RAMCO-Dnepr MT-16

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Thu Dec 05, 2019 6:15 pm

Claus wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 4:56 am
For me the right one seems too lean. The left one too ritch
Try to enritchen the right one by turning the pilot screw 1/4 turn in. This will help with acceleration, too. And the left one 1/4 turn out.
You want to see light to dark brownish color on the ceramic insulator.
In my K68 I reamed the mains to real 90 (they were smaller when I measured them). If it´s still really boggy with true 90 mains, you could try to hang the needles one step higher and ride it again. If it doesn´t get better, hang the needles down again and try the next larger main jet.
I reckon, you´re on the right way...

(edit: I found 95 mains in my K68)
I cleaned and regapped the plugs and made the fuel adjustments you suggested. Much improved that ride.

The last carbed bike that I had was a KTM 950, so I'm relearning -- float height, mains, idle air screws. At least these carbs are a lot easier to get to. :lol:

Image

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Thu Dec 05, 2019 8:47 pm

So . . . I'm a drum brake neophyte. Let's start there. The rear brake on my Dnepr is really weak. The linkage all is in working order, but the brake doesn't engage until I feel like I have my toe pointed just about as far down as it can go. I've already raised the brake pedal as much as I can. I believe I need to expand out the brake pads closer to the drum. Is this the adjuster for that??? I'm assuming bike drum brakes don't auto-adjust out like drum car brakes. Could be wrong. Dunno.

Image

My front brake cable was broken when I got the bike, so I had a new cable made. That all looks good. But again, the front brake is pretty weak. I feel like an emergency stop would be a disaster. As you can see, I'm near the end of the external cable adjuster. Is the next step to move the arms that operate the internal cams out a tooth or so to gain more ground on the cams and lengthen or shorten the rod between the two?

Image

Image

As always, your thoughts are much appreciated.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Bilgekeeldave » Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:15 pm

If it has the original Dnepr brake shoes, you will want to get them relined with a modern friction material. I think that the original friction material is some kind of pottery. Mine has semi-metallic friction material bonded to the Dnepr brake shoes. Most larger cities have a company that will reline brakes and clutches.

Another thing to do is to arc the brake lining to the brake drum. Glue some sandpaper to the inside of the brake drum, chalk the brake shoes, put the wheel back on and spin the wheel while applying the brakes. It may take a few tries but eventually the chalk will be sanded off of the brake shoes and you will have full contact with the brake drum. Rolls of sandpaper are available at Harbor Freight.

The dual leading shoe drum brakes on our Dneprs work really good when they are set up properly, I can lock mine up easily, if I want to.
Dave

RAMCO-Dnepr MT-16

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Lmo » Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:27 am

You might want to consider replacing the "turnbuckle" link with something more substantial. It was one of the first mods I made to mine. Barnett makes a heavy 3mm cable and stiffer external housing that really minimized flex in the system. Make sure the brake shoes are extended (internally) before you go messing with the external cam arms.

Read > viewtopic.php?t=47722

Suncor (sailboat hardware p/n: S0101-0007 JAW & JAW TURNBUCKLE, 1/4") turnbuckle works well.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Fri Dec 06, 2019 9:33 am

Lmo wrote:
Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:27 am
You might want to consider replacing the "turnbuckle" link with something more substantial. It was one of the first mods I made to mine. Barnett makes a heavy 3mm cable and stiffer external housing that really minimized flex in the system. Make sure the brake shoes are extended (internally) before you go messing with the external cam arms.

Read > viewtopic.php?t=47722

Suncor (sailboat hardware p/n: S0101-0007 JAW & JAW TURNBUCKLE, 1/4") turnbuckle works well.

Image
I've seen that mod on Russian Iron. Thanks for the link and info. The first thing I'm going to do on the front is to move each arm one tooth on their splines. The turnbuckle is something I'll order as a future mod.

I also found how to adjust the rear brake in a Dnepr-16 operation manual that the PO printed out. I was right that the little screw on the back of the rear drum is the adjuster.

My bike doesn't have a center stand. That's something I'll have to locate. But, I do have a simple Harbor Freight motorcycle jack, so I should be able to adjust the rear wheel per the manual with that.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Fri Dec 06, 2019 9:34 am

Orangecicle wrote:
Fri Dec 06, 2019 9:33 am
Lmo wrote:
Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:27 am
You might want to consider replacing the "turnbuckle" link with something more substantial. It was one of the first mods I made to mine. Barnett makes a heavy 3mm cable and stiffer external housing that really minimized flex in the system. Make sure the brake shoes are extended (internally) before you go messing with the external cam arms.

Read > viewtopic.php?t=47722

Suncor (sailboat hardware p/n: S0101-0007 JAW & JAW TURNBUCKLE, 1/4") turnbuckle works well.

Image
I've seen that mod on Russian Iron. Thanks for the link and info. The first thing I'm going to do on the front is to move each arm one tooth on their splines. The turnbuckle is something I'll order as a future mod.

I also found how to adjust the rear brake in a Dnepr-16 operation manual that the PO printed out. I was right that the little screw on the back of the rear drum is the adjuster.

My bike doesn't have a center stand. That's something I'll have to locate. But, I do have a simple Harbor Freight motorcycle jack, so I should be able to adjust the rear wheel brake per the manual with that jack.
Last edited by Orangecicle on Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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