My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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Here is the place for you to ask questions about or share your experiences about servicing or repairing your Ural or Dnepr. Please post topics concering modifications or accesories in the "Modifications and Acessories" section. Please post oil related questions in the "Oil Threads" section.
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Lmo
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Lmo » Fri Dec 06, 2019 1:52 pm

The first thing I'm going to do on the front is to move each arm one tooth on their splines.
Mechanically ... maximum braking occurs when the the two brake cam arms are at 90° to the brake shoes make contact with the drum.

It looks like it's in that condition now. Remove the wheel, and adjust the brake shoes outward first; shoot for 1/32" - 1/16" of clearance between the shoe(s) and the drum. These drums are seldom truly round so there will more than likely be a hit spot. The rubber plug is an inspection port, but I've found it to be more of a trial-and-error process. And find an after-market brake lever perch with an adjuster on it...

I was SURPRISED by how much replacing the original turnbuckle improves braking effect.

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Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Claus
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Claus » Fri Dec 06, 2019 2:19 pm

The modification Lew writes about (the after-market brake lever perch) was very common before Ural went over to disc brakes in Europe. What we get here is for sailing gear and we had to drill the holes from 6 to 7mm (as a recall, could be different diameters, I forgot about it). Very often they have one left hand- and one right hand thread, so once installed, one can adjust them without uninstalling. And yes, it´s really surprising how much improvement they bring. All other decribed by Lew. Expect 3 hours to get the front brake sorted, if you do it the first time.

And read what Bilgekeeldave wrote. If your brake shoes are uneven, this is what to do. Lots of folks here spent a couple of saturdays to sort everything out. Some of them found out, that the steel drum had separated from the cast alloy as a cause of winter salt. In this case you should use another wheel.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, 95 Suzuki DR 650 RSE, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Manscout
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Manscout » Fri Dec 06, 2019 3:38 pm

Orangecicle wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:03 am
Question for the group: How do you secure the bike when parked in public?
Live in Wyoming. :lol: :lol: :lol:
"It goes nowhere fast, and everywhere cool".

2011 Ural Patrol
Gillette, Wy
Instagram: manscoutwyo

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Lmo
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Lmo » Fri Dec 06, 2019 5:20 pm

Suncor S0101-0007 JAW & JAW TURNBUCKLE > https://www.suncorstainless.com/jaw-jaw-turnbuckle

$30 or less. Google "Suncor" and the part number, and several marine supplies will pop up. You will have to drill out the clevis holes to fit the pins, but other than that it's quick work. Right and left hand threads make adjusting the brake much easier.

Order it now...
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Mr Wazzock » Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:41 pm

Orangecicle wrote:
Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:03 am
Question for the group: How do you secure the bike when parked in public? I use a disc lock on my KTM 690. I was thinking maybe a mesh cable around a wheel in combination with a simple disc lock.
I used "a simple disc lock" for years until the inevitable happened, I drove off after forgetting to take it off (and was also totally oblivious to the bright yellow coiled lead plastic reminder thingy stretching to the bars); it was the Ural, the lock just fell off after trashing the front disc but at no time prevented the bike being moved (driven forward). I now use a big thick armoured cable lock, goes thru the front wheel and the sidecar front bumper bar. Conveniently also works like a steering lock in that the wheel has to be turned full left, and so is also difficult not to notice that summat's not right if I forget to take this one off! :D

Cable is an Oxford, 1.4 metres I think.
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by dneprlover » Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:44 pm

Start to set up correctly from scratch before you start cutting, sawing, drilling , changing parts or moving splines about

remove the cable
take the wheel out of the bike ( spindle is a L/H thread)
Remove the brakeplate from the wheel
clean and degrease all components
examine the wheel braking surface for damage or separation from the hub
screw off the nuts that hold the operating levers to the brakeplate
remove shoes and springs and the trailing edge support mushrooms
push the cam spindles out of the plate (examine them carefully, they are eccentric and you need to note this.) clean and grease the spindles and put them back in the plate.

The reason the cams are eccentric is for adjustment purposes. They are set in the lowest position when fitting a new pair of thick linings. once the linings have worn and there is no more adjustment in the cable. the cams are revolved 180 degrees and adjustment can start all over again. The trailing edge of the shoes can be adjusted by putting 8mm washers under the mushroom heads.

Once the cams are both in and set in the same high/low position , fit the mushrooms and replace the shoes with springs Remember to lightly grease the spindles and mushroom bearing surfaces

Offer the plate to the hub and make any adjustments necessary to get the shoes a loose but close fit in the hub.

Now get a felt tip pen or whiteboard marker and draw a line through the spindle ends, right across the face of the brake plate . now draw another line but this time just off the vertical , through the front cam spindle end at an angle of 82 degrees to the original line. This is the angle at which the front operating arm should be fitted. Adjust the link rod so that the rear operating arm goes on its splines exactly parallel to the front one. Now press both onto the splines and replace the holding nuts.

The wheel assembly can now be refitted to the bike , cable connected and final adjustment carried out.

Better brake linings are definitely good to have as is a stronger link rod. Don't be fooled by thinking brake adjustment is easier with a Right and Left threaded link rod. it is NOT. Think about what it does to the cams when adjustment takes place. the rod is purely to get the operating arms parallel , simple as that.

A good set up Dnepr TLS brake will lock the wheel when needed and one can't get better performance than that.
Neval BMW/MT11 800cc hybrid, Neval 2wd MT10-36, Neval standard MT10-36, Neval MT16, another MT11, BMW/MB650 hybrid , K750m , MB750 and a standard MT10-36 outfit + 2 large sheds full of spares for them.

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Orangecicle
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Sat Dec 07, 2019 9:31 pm

I decided to tackle a couple of lighting issues today. First, the flasher was not flashing, sooooo . . . I took the stock flasher apart.

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Found a suitable replacement:

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Modified the wiring a little:

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And married the new flasher to the old casing.

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Everything went so well that I thought I would work on the left front turn signal, which had decided to stop working. When I touched the bulb, the entire bulb and holder fell off of its pot metal mount. Then I tried to remove the pot metal so that I could drill into it to mount the bulb socket, and the arms fell off. :brickwall:

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In the end, I have two rear turn signals and one front turn signal. It was nearly 50°F today in the midwest, so I gave up on the left turn signal for the day, and Blu and I took the Dnepr to the park.

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Orangecicle
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Sat Dec 07, 2019 9:37 pm

Happy co-pilot.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Sat Dec 07, 2019 9:50 pm

Also, I have one stubby little left mirror on my bike and nothing on the right. The left mirror I have gives me a nice view of my left arm and nothing else. I prefer something like these but would appreciate thoughts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-FAR-Fo ... 1438.l2649 I don't have a mount point on the right, but I can buy a bolt-on mount. Anyway, thoughts?

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by dneprlover » Sun Dec 08, 2019 4:02 am

You will struggle fitting those Ebay mirrors to your Dnepr. better to buy some cheap long reach ones and new perches. the handlebars are 25mm diameter so if you buy 1" perches, you will have to shim them.
Neval BMW/MT11 800cc hybrid, Neval 2wd MT10-36, Neval standard MT10-36, Neval MT16, another MT11, BMW/MB650 hybrid , K750m , MB750 and a standard MT10-36 outfit + 2 large sheds full of spares for them.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by SafetyBob » Sun Dec 08, 2019 8:27 am

Your driveway is far too pretty for a Dnepr.. Mine slather oil about... ha ha
Nice rig, pretty puppy...
All the best,
SB#3
Dnepr Mt-11 Solo
Dnepr Mt-11
Dnepr Mt-9

Dnepr's Are Life!

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Orangecicle
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Sun Dec 08, 2019 9:13 am

SafetyBob wrote:
Sun Dec 08, 2019 8:27 am
Your driveway is far too pretty for a Dnepr.. Mine slather oil about... ha ha
Nice rig, pretty puppy...
All the best,
SB#3
:lol: The driveway was a mess a few years ago, so we had to replace it. I could have bought a really nice used Gear Up for what we paid!

Does anyone know if the Ural and Dnepr shifter arms are interchangeable? I’m a toe shifter, and the construction of the Dnepr shifter leaves something to be desired.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Sun Dec 08, 2019 1:07 pm

Second plug check. Still a little fat on the left and a little lean on the right. Better, but not perfect. For now I'll go out another 1/4 turn on the right. I know I have carb work to do here, so this will change. At least I won't damage the bike as she's running.

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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Bilgekeeldave » Sun Dec 08, 2019 1:31 pm

I have stock Dnepr mirrors, the bike came with one on the left, and I bought another from RAMCO when I bought the rig. There was no place to attach the mirror on the right side, so I made a mount out of 1/16" stainless strap that I bent around the handlebar and lined with rubber sheet packing, so it would grip the bar.

My mirrors are round black plastic with longer mirror stands than the ones shown in your photo.
Dave

RAMCO-Dnepr MT-16

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Orangecicle
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Re: My Dnepr MT-11 Story

Post by Orangecicle » Sun Dec 08, 2019 4:44 pm

I've noticed an oil leak on the top of the motor. Looks like it is coming from the mount point for the alternator. I'll have to look into that. It's not very significant, but it makes the bike smell like an oil refinery.

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On another front:

My wife: "The star doesn't fit on the top of the tree."

Me: "Yes it does."

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