Torque Wrench you like

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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hotflash44
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by hotflash44 » Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:02 pm

No link needed Ebay or if you have a Harbor Freight in your area. The digital torque adapter is really nice at least you know how your wrench is. go on youtube lots of reviews/tests on this tool . If you dont have a torque wrench this will convert any tool that uses a socket to a torque wrench. they also use inch lbs,ft lbs.nm,kilograms got it all in one tool cool! Also comes with adapters for 3/8 in and 1/4 in sockets its set for 1/2 in sockets.
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by HAPBOB » Wed Mar 29, 2017 8:52 pm

So now I am confused a bit as to if I need to torque tHe heads or not on the 2004 ?
I have an inch pound torque wrench and would have to convert to ft pds. Or should I just check to see it they seem loose with my 45 years of wrenching arm torque feel.
Hap
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Daytripper
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by Daytripper » Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:39 pm

:fart:
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by Yakatak » Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:22 am

Hapbob...Yes, you should use a torque wrench for the head bolts. Probably need to buy/borrow one, as 36.9 ft/lbs is 442.8 in/lbs.
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HAPBOB
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by HAPBOB » Thu Mar 30, 2017 6:28 am

OK I ordered the digital convert my socket to torque on E-Bay
I will check the head bolts and wont loosen only check to see if I can get to 36.9 ft/lbs on torque and no more!
I like that it has all the numbers inch lbs and ft and what ever a nano meter is. Probably for NASA use only.
Thanks
Hap
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by thecrumb » Thu Mar 30, 2017 1:32 pm

When I got my first motorcycle everyone told me I needed a torque wrench so I promptly went out and bought a fancy clicker type, then proceeded to strip my oil plug with it (maybe I should have read the manual first) :)

I then went out and bought a good beam type and have used it for years. I'm a firm believer in KISS.
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hotflash44
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by hotflash44 » Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:31 pm

HAPBOB, your Ural is a 2004 check around before using the head bolt specs of 36.9 ft lb that is the newer Urals. Make sure and get the correct measurement. Some of the older Urals actually had specs in the mid 20s, probably because of the soft Russian head bolts. Dont want to strip/snap a head bolt , not the end of the world, but a good afternoon work to fix. I like the idea of not backing the bolt off just check the torque as is. Some people swear that if you dont back off a quarter turn you cant get a true reading. Sorry for making a simple fix so complicated.
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Lee Pape
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by Lee Pape » Fri Mar 31, 2017 9:07 am

hotflash44 wrote:HAPBOB, your Ural is a 2004 check around before using the head bolt specs of 36.9 ft lb that is the newer Urals. Make sure and get the correct measurement. Some of the older Urals actually had specs in the mid 20s, probably because of the soft Russian head bolts. Dont want to strip/snap a head bolt , not the end of the world, but a good afternoon work to fix. I like the idea of not backing the bolt off just check the torque as is. Some people swear that if you dont back off a quarter turn you cant get a true reading. Sorry for making a simple fix so complicated.
+1
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by phliparoonie » Fri Mar 31, 2017 10:38 am

Tin Man wrote:Been thinking bout replacing my (very) old one for one of the newer click style's. Any down-side to those? :lurker:
Just make sure the locking mechanism is loose when storing. You also have to "follow" the adjustment up and down the torque settings by taking tension off the locking mechanism especially if you are moving the dial through a wide range (say 20 up to 90). Other than that, the 'click' lets your ears do the work of your eyes in tight situations (hard to get your head between the bike and the hack!).
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by Msblu79 » Fri Mar 31, 2017 10:43 am

I also would reccomend not to loosen the head bolts before retorquing them. Oil will get between the heads and the gasket and it will leak forever and no matter how tight you try to get them it will continue to leak. Just load them up and if they don't move you are fine, then check the valves. :)
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hotflash44
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by hotflash44 » Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:22 am

the more Urallistas that say this, the more it makes sense, the reason i saw once on the back off theory was some complicated scientific stuff ,don't believe in all that fancy talk any way!!
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by HAPBOB » Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:14 pm

So I am still unsure of the plan. Tourque to 34 pds and move on.
Or just check to make sure they are not loose and move on ?
I have a digital 3/8 now and don't want to cause myself problems with thinking I can't go wrong with new wrench?
Hap
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hotflash44
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by hotflash44 » Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:46 pm

Okay, this is simple but confusing at the same time. first if your Ural is older maybe 2010 back you need to be careful and get the correct measurement. as i understand there was a time where some Urals had poor quality head bolt studs or there was a problem where they screwed into the case.what ever the bolts would strip/break etc if they were torqued to tight. so people might go with a lower torque on these Urals i.e. 25 /28 ft pounds. even the Ural factory manuals have erroneous data like the reduction of torque on newer Urals from 40 ish ft lbs down to the now excepted 36.9 ft.lb. or 50nm which ever measure you have.onward its get worse some Uralistas subscribe to the theory to check the bolts by first backing the bolt off 1/4 turn then torque to 36.9 ft.lb. some say this step is unnecessary just torque don't back off. of course you always use the cross method. onward again what i have desided to do on my 2016 for its first valve adjustment was to just lightly feel the head bolt didn't move it just wanted to see that it was tight, remember this is the first adjustment at 1000k im really not worried that the torque is off maybe next time, i will torque without the back off method that's my method of choice could be incorrect but that's to be seen. now that we have the heads under control if you re -torque you must re adjust the valves,seems the valve adjustment will move after the re-torque. that's it!
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Re: Torque Wrench you like

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:20 am

Sears Craftsmen 1/2" drive click type. When you are working in hard to reach spots, that click makes it easy to know when you are done when you can't read the electronics or beam.

I know some electronic ones beep at the set torque, but I have enough trouble keeping electronic meters, calipers, etc alive in the garage so i don't need one more fragile thing to break/battery to change.

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