Clutch Fun! Replace the clutch.

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Manscout
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Clutch Fun! Replace the clutch.

Post by Manscout » Sat Aug 13, 2016 7:27 pm

I finally had time to dig in and see what damage I did after our trip a month ago. (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44697) Here's the basic scoop: I severely abused the clutch and I knew it was damaged. By the time I rolled in the garage, pulling the clutch did not disengage the engine and gearbox. After a few days, I tried tightening the cable, but it did nothing to help. I am a little depleted for funds, so I can only replace the damaged components. See if you can guess the problem from the pics below. :lol:

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Sitting like this a month

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Rear wheel, and crap around the gearbox off

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FD, swing arm, and finally the gearbox is off. Doesn't smell good. Has someone been burning the clutch? :roll:

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Looks ok

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That's a lot of black stuff. The Ural assemblers must have had a fire and used the bell-housing and the fire pit. Why didn't they clean it out before putting it on the bike!?

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Hmmm. I wonder what the problem could be.....

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First two pieces

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Doh! Yep, it's pretty obvious.

Now, I now the ideal option is a hole new clutch, but I don't think I can swing that. So, what parts do I need? My guess is the two clutch plates, and screws. There is also a small amount of oil visible on the flywheel. Does that mean I need to do the rear main seal?
Should I just hit up the normal powerhouses and see if they have one in stock?

Fun little note: When I went to remove the rear axle it was already spinning. I thought that was strange as I didn't remember loosening the axle clamp. That means.....Holy Crap! I had changed the tire on our trip and never tightnened it?!?!? We drove all over the mountains on crazy terrain, plus all the way home 115mi without it tight. :wtf: :feelsgood:
Last edited by Manscout on Fri Sep 16, 2016 10:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by JPanyon » Sat Aug 13, 2016 10:08 pm

Clean the snot off of the steel pressure plates, replace the friction disc plates. Lightly smear grease on the tranny shaft splines. Get new clutch screws. Then your main trouble will be aligning all the inner circle teeth that engage the splines on the tranny shaft. You don't mention having made a DIY alignment tool by forcing a soft wooden dowel into one of the old plates. You'll need that dowel, or an alignment tool that fits a Volvo clutch, when you start to bolt the clutch plates back together and need to keep the inner teeth correctly positioned to fit the shaft splines. See the "myUral.com" pages for a complete pictorial guide.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by ReCycled » Sun Aug 14, 2016 7:48 am

I don't know if this will save you money but may save you time and aggravation... A friend's looked pretty similar to that early this year and we tried just the friction plates but still no joy. There had been enough heat to warp the friction disc as well. We didn't notice, nor thought to check it. Run a straight edge across both the pressure plate and intermediate plat to verify they are FLAT.

NOT like this one;
Rich's pressure plate.jpg
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Albuquralque » Sun Aug 14, 2016 9:22 am

+1 on checking if the pressure plate, intermediate plate, and cover plate are flat.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Manscout » Sun Aug 14, 2016 5:29 pm

I would have never thought of that. And since I tore it up to the point it was smoking, I am sure there was a lot of heat. I am going to go check it before I order my parts tomorrow.
Anyone have thoughts on the rear main?
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Albuquralque » Sun Aug 14, 2016 7:04 pm

Manscout wrote:Anyone have thoughts on the rear main?
If you had oil on the clutch plate, that could've been a factor in the clutch disintegration. Best take care of that too.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Steve7959 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 3:22 am

Check out my recent thread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44974

I did a similar abuse of the rig going up and down mountains in Spain. Blew the rear crank seal and covered the plates in oil.

As others have said, id the plates are flat, a cheap fix will be new friction plates (I got mine from Russian Garage) and a set of oil seals (one for the crank, one for the gearbox.

If you've got a wep from the crank now, you might as well pull the flywheel and change it now. You'll only be doing it later :wink:
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Manscout » Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:21 am

Thanx all! I checked this morning, and it appears that the first plate that comes off is almost flat, but not completely. The intermediate plate is flat. The last plate (thrust plate?) would be flat, but it appears the teeth bend inward. I am not taking any chances; it takes too much work to pull it all apart. I'll be replacing the other two plates as well as the driven plates. I want to do the rear main as well, I just need to look and see if it is something I can accomplish.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Steve7959 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:15 am

When you say "rear main",, I take it you mean the rear crankshaft oil seal?

If so, once the flywheel is off, removing and fitting a new oil seal is very easy.

Getting the flywheel off can be fun. The thread I pointed you to above shows a 'home-made' puller and gives the bolt/thread sizes etc
Steve

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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Manscout » Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:54 am

Thanx Steve. I actually had read through your thread before, so I kind of had an idea. If I was more fabricated minded, I would try making a homemade puller. There is not much oil on the flywheel, but you are right. If I don't do it now, I'll just be doing it later.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Buckhorn » Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:02 am

As to removing the flywheel, has anyone used rope in the spark plug hole(s) to keep the flywheel from moving while removing the bolt?
I know this works on chainsaws and other small engines, but maybe this is too hard on the crank of the Ural.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Steve7959 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:08 am

By the sound of it, you probably did the same as I did. The engine was very heavily loaded at very low speed (virtually no air flow over the cylinders) and the engine massively overheated. The oil had the consistency of black water.

Once it cooled down, everything was fine for the next 500 or so miles. I think it was only when I pushed the engine hard again that hotter, 'thinner' oil wept past the seal again on to the plates and it was game over.

Without over simplifying it, getting the flywheel off wasn't to bad and a seal is very cheap.

You just know how hard you're going to kick yourself when you get oil all over you're nice new friction plates :wink:
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Snakeoil » Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:41 am

Buckhorn wrote:As to removing the flywheel, has anyone used rope in the spark plug hole(s) to keep the flywheel from moving while removing the bolt?
I know this works on chainsaws and other small engines, but maybe this is too hard on the crank of the Ural.
Impact wrench is the way to go.

Given the propensity for these cranks to bend with hydro-lock conditions, I don't think I'd be putting this kind of tortional load on it by holding it from turning with the piston.

When you put the flywheel back on after doing the seal, torque it in stages and check runout on the flywheel with an indicator. Make sure the tapers on the crank and flywheel are clean and free of any defects.
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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by s1marks » Mon Aug 15, 2016 8:07 pm

I don't want to brag but my friction plate was a lot worse (completely bald) when I blew mine up! :-)
The goods news is that I only had to replace the friction plates and my clutch works better than ever now. I made an alignment tool out of a socket that fit the hole and a set of split pins that I inserted through the teeth of the plates to make sure they were aligned (I used the same trick on my R1150GS btw).

Raceway Ural was the cheapest I found for friction plates which I believe to be of a new style (quality) than the originals on my 2007 Gear-up. Call Robbie and he won't charge you an arm and a leg for shipping like their website does.

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Re: Clutch Fun! Guess the bad part (and save me some money)

Post by Manscout » Tue Aug 16, 2016 9:45 am

Snakeoil wrote:When you put the flywheel back on after doing the seal, torque it in stages and check runout on the flywheel with an indicator. Make sure the tapers on the crank and flywheel are clean and free of any defects.
Any chance you have the thread that talks about what runout is and how to check it? No worries if you don't. I 'll search for it, and thank you for the advise! I am guessing I have to be careful about putting the flywheel back on so it lines up with the TDC marks too.
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