Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

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Lmo
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Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Sun May 08, 2016 2:04 pm

This is a spin off of my Ignition Switch - Failure Mode thread.

I'd like to replace my OEM Ural ignition switch with a "universal" type switch from an auto or marine parts outlet. For $45 there must be a better "equivalent" out there. Maybe marine grade for weather-proofness (?)

3-position (off/on/ignition), or 4-position (accessories/off/on/ignition) is what I'd like to hear about.

Has anyone else been this route? Can you name names with part numbers, manufacturers, etc?

The stakes on two of the terminals are loose (#2 & #6) and allow the terminal to rotate slightly. I don't know if this is what's causing my intermittent ignition loss, but it's certainly worrisome, not to mention a destroyer of confidence in heading out on the open road.

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ImageImage

For example, this Evinrude part retails for about $20
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates

Post by jaybird » Sun May 08, 2016 2:15 pm

Hi Lew,
That Evinrude switch looks like a good replacement.
In the short term, have you tried to solder the terminals on your old switch? What have you got to lose?

Happy trails,
Jaybird
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Sun May 08, 2016 3:17 pm

Nothing to solder to Jaybird. The terminals are already soldered to their stakes (the cross-hatch copper studs in the photo above), but the stakes are loose in the switch housing. Can't imagine that being a good thing.
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by dneprlover » Sun May 08, 2016 3:30 pm

Those switches are quite easy to dismantle and repair if one is careful. Lever out the 3 case crimps and have a look inside. The plastic insulator is registered so it only goes back one way. When taking apart, hold the switch with the key downwards and the springs won't jump out of their holes. Tighten up the rivets and lube the switch, then stake it back together. I've never seen one where the terminals were soldered to the rivets OE from the factory. Just lightly tightening the rivets will restore electrical contact.

A very easy and simple repair.
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Sun May 08, 2016 7:59 pm

Funny you posted this, it's exactly what I did this afternoon...

The rivets still allow the terminal "spade" to rotate a bit, but contact internally is good. As you mentioned, there is a indexing lug on the body (mine was almost obliterated), and the internal "rotor" is symmetric so you can't get it on backwards.

I'll pass on a trick I learned from an old mechanic; when you tear into an assembly that you're not familiar with, especially one that is likely to have springs and tiny bits inclined to launch themselves across the room, use one of those flimsy "dry-cleaner" bags to disassemble the device inside. The plastic is so thin that it doesn't impose any limitation on vision or movement, and it's thick enough to capture anything that flies out.

Remember what I've got, a Dnural; the switch was probably soldered by the PO. The heat may have been what loosened the fit of the rivets for all I know.

I should have taken photos of the tear-down/rebuild.
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by INSUBORDINATOR » Mon May 09, 2016 2:52 pm

I'm doing fine with a 3 terminal US made switch that was already on the bike in under 3000 miles of new (saying something about OEM switches) There is also a big factory on/off main switch under the seat. My ignition switch is OFF straight up & on both ways - one in stealth mode with NO LIGHTS. Pretty weird, James Bond must have used it. Works fine, so I haven't changed it, might come in handy.
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Tue May 10, 2016 10:14 am

Metal or plastic switch body?
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.030" shims

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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Bural » Tue May 10, 2016 10:31 am

Those switches were dirt cheap last time I bought one. $11-15. Holopaw Gene has them. Voodoo mechanics, put an extra one in the trunk, and you never need one again.
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Tue May 10, 2016 12:51 pm

Thanks for chiming in Richard. I ordered two about a hour ago; the OMC waterproof marine grade version; $15 a piece. My Dnurl was rigged with a Ural switch and a separate push-button start switch. It'll be nice to be able to simply "key start" the engine. But truth be known ... the Ural engine kick starts much, much, easier than my '73 R75/5.
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by INSUBORDINATOR » Thu May 19, 2016 6:50 pm

Lmo wrote:Metal or plastic switch body?
POT METAL
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by INSUBORDINATOR » Thu May 19, 2016 6:53 pm

Lmo wrote: But truth be known ... the Ural engine kick starts much, much, easier than my '73 R75/5.
That's sure the truth. The BMW /2s were much easier to start - like the Ural. When my old /2 was hot I could start it by hand.
Current Motorcycles: Improved 2002 Ural Tourist.

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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Fri May 20, 2016 1:57 pm

I've seen that before! I had "crickets" in my starter relay, so starting it was a PITA for some time. I finally got fed up with it and bought a used relay to modify. After I got it opened up it's PO had already done the modification! No more crickets, total instant starts from then on. Short of the main switch being secured into the headlight nacelle by bending over little, fragile, metal tabs, the kicker has to be the main "fail" on the bike. IMHO.

But as funky as that old bakelite board switch assembly is, it's never failed me, and it's serviceable. I was actually contemplating buying an old Ural/Dnepr switch, refurbing it, and installing it in my headlight.

But I digress.
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by RevBilly666 » Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:55 pm

.
Did you try the Evinrude switch? If it worked for you, please share the part number!

I'm looking for a non-OEM replacement for my flaky Ural switch as well. It would be nice if it doesn't require surgery to wiring or housing...
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by JPanyon » Thu Aug 18, 2016 1:34 am

I just found/fixed intermittent ignition troubles. Thought it was the 14 yr old ignition switch, but wasn't. It was the ground connection path between frame and battery negative post. There is a master disconnect switch on my yr/model, in that path, hidden underneath the seat base plate and behind the left side cover. The connectors on the switch had become just corroded enough to let the fastener nuts work themselves loose. Burnishing all the switch's electrical connection hardware with a brass wire wheel brush and installing paint-cutting star washers restored healthy operation. Then I coated the connections with grease to allow me another 14 years of operation. Hope your fix is as easy as mine was.
John Panyon,,,Biking since 1961 on wheels left behind but never forgotten
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Re: Ignition Switch - non-OEM Alternates?

Post by Lmo » Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:57 am

These are all basically the same 3-position marine grade switch as the Evinrude; find them on-line or at a marine supply store. Can't comment on the housing surgery (I mounted mine in a custom enclosure under the seat) or the wiring harness mods required (I completely rewired the Dnepr).

Be aware that all of these switches use screw-terminals vs. slip on spades

Sea Choice 11651 (the one I used)
Sea Dog 420382
Sierra 39760
OMC 21681
Pollack 31-297 (metal body)
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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