Rocker arm question

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Rocker arm question

Post by blairbear » Sun Mar 13, 2016 4:50 pm

I went in to check a noisy valve sound on the right side ( tub) checked torque both sides,set valves l/s then to the r/s every time I came up to TDC. Something wasn't right the intake rocker was tight. After a few attempts to TDC, I loosed up the adjustment for the intake and found the rocker moving around very oddly. After a few attempts to remove the rocker shaft, I just pulled the whole assembly off.
What I found was the shaft had maybe .020 to.030 engagement in the top hole. In time had worn itself free. I think the shat was never installed far enough and the retaining screw was locked on the shaft instead of in the retaining slot. And somehow in broke the rocker arm bracket web.
Now for the questions, looking at the IPC it shows left and right brackets. Is that in reference to looking straight in on the head?
When I get the new bracket and install it, should the other two head nuts be loosened up and all four brought up together or can I just bring up the two to proper torque?
Blair Turney
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Re: Rocker arm question

Post by Tomcatfixer » Wed Aug 10, 2016 5:34 pm

I broke the tub-side intake valve adjuster, so I guess I've got to remove the intake rocker to replace it.
Now I've got the same torque question.
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Gordonsville, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 2001 Ural Patrol "Little Red Bear", 1999 Ural Tourist "The RPOC", Mid-Nineties Ural Tourist "The Heap", 1994 Honda VFR750F

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2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
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Re: Rocker arm question

Post by GHGoodwin » Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:09 pm

Loosen them all up. Proper torque is around 35 ft lbs, which is what I use, although there isa lot of discussion on this.

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Re: Rocker arm question

Post by URAL CT » Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:10 pm

On my 07, I was able to purchase just the valve adjuster cup & nut..BTDT :oops: Any of the Ural dealer should have 'em.
With regards to the rocker arm shaft (on my 07), it has a flat spot where the screw sits on preventing shaft rotation...dunno about the new ones. Also I shimmed the top & bottom of the shaft so the rocker striker arm (dunno what ya call it) is hitting close to the center of the valve stem. I get the shims from ModTop, I think he recommends .001" vertical play. I use the feeler gauge to set 'em.
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Re: Rocker arm question

Post by n3303j » Thu Aug 11, 2016 1:09 am

Put the rocker shaft assembly on FIRST and bring those nuts lose to torque value. Then loosen and retorque the other side close to value (maybe 20 ft/lb all around). Now torque to final value in the normal pattern.

If you loosen all four nuts the head can shift in relationship to the gasket which increases your chances for leaks at the head gasket. Using the above method guarantees that the head stays in its original position on its gasket.

I'm one of the guys who uses and recommends 25 ft/lb as a final torque value. 50 million BMWs can't be wrong.
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Re: Rocker arm question

Post by Crawford Sales Co. » Thu Aug 11, 2016 8:17 am

I would like to add a comment while we are talking about rocker arm assembles. Everybody assumes that the mounting surface of the assembly is flat. It isn't on a lot of them. What ever you torque them you are basically pulling them down flat to the surface of the head which is flat. This is not good because it will change the accuracy of the valve adjustment. Next time you have a rocker arm assembly off put it on the kitchen table or a known flat surface and see how bad it is. A 6 inch belt sander can be your friend if done correctly.
Terry Crawford
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