Oil pan heater

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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Here is the place for you to ask questions about or share your experiences about servicing or repairing your Ural or Dnepr. Please post topics concering modifications or accesories in the "Modifications and Acessories" section. Please post oil related questions in the "Oil Threads" section.
siberman1
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by siberman1 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:32 pm

WEGUNTER wrote:When I served with the Russians in Bosnia and Kosovo as a liaison officer, I used to watch Russian mechanics stick a pan filled with oily rags under their BTR-70's and light them on fire. They started right up.
Think Bill Glasser's idea with the sterno is great.

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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Emoore » Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:53 am

Doesn't anyone make an oil heater plug that replaces your existing oil pan plug?
I've seen them plugged in to many vehicles, including motorcycles. You would kinda figure a company that is in the Ural mountains would have one.....right?????

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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by stagewex » Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:14 am

Started and ridden in as low as 14 below zero. Never a problem or need for a heater except for my own cold a$$.
I believe common sense would tell you that you should warm the bike up in extreme weather like that.
But... I guess it couldn't hurt. JC Witney sells them for cars.

Had a factory block heater on an old 1972 Mercedes-Benz Diesel years ago. That was absolutely necessary because of the fuel. Didn't plug it in one very, very cold Winter night. A very expensive mistake getting the gelled diesel fuel cleaned out of the system.
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Wildhorse Cafe » Wed Nov 01, 2017 12:26 pm

I'm thinking a Ukrainian camp stove would be ideal. :D
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Peter Pan » Wed Nov 01, 2017 1:36 pm

In my student time on a Reng.täng, täng Honnekertaxi, the buddies in Germany who owned Beemer and Guzzi on winter meetings used to take their camping stoves for 40 minutes under the block before they even tried to get some juice out of their huge batteries. Me: turn the gasoline valve on, kick 3 times without ignition, 2-3 times with ignition...reng, kläng, kläng...Bye, bye.
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Mr Wazzock » Wed Nov 01, 2017 3:19 pm

Wildhorse Cafe wrote:I'm thinking a Ukrainian camp stove would be ideal. :D
Yes I think just chuck a tray of kerosene underneath and set fire to it :D

Seriously a friend years ago saw this being done to the tour bus when he made a trip to Poland. :o
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Wildhorse Cafe » Wed Nov 01, 2017 3:31 pm

Mr Wazzock wrote:
Wildhorse Cafe wrote:I'm thinking a Ukrainian camp stove would be ideal. :D
Yes I think just chuck a tray of kerosene underneath and set fire to it :D

Seriously a friend years ago saw this being done to the tour bus when he made a trip to Poland. :o
But you need that blue flame that only a gas generator can provide. :wink:
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Wed Nov 01, 2017 3:54 pm

I used my "Yamal" heater a few years back when the starting temp for the New years ride was -2F!
Pointed it right under the engine after it wouldn't catch even with crank/kick assist.
After about 15 minutes it started on first push of the button.

In that time I don't think the oil heated up as much as the carbs did, allowing the fuel to vaporize better.
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by tx2sturgis » Wed Nov 01, 2017 6:30 pm

My ears were burning!

I HEARD that!

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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Red Dwarf » Fri Nov 03, 2017 7:30 pm

Wildhorse Cafe wrote:I'm thinking a Ukrainian camp stove would be ideal. :D
I've used my MSR Firefly to warm up my log splitter. :kumbaya:
Way better than my magnetic electric heater.

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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Jack'D » Fri Nov 10, 2017 7:34 pm

I switch to synthetic for the winter. No heat not garaged and it starts electrically down to - 19F with no problems. 4 years so far.
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by adriancw » Sun Jan 05, 2020 7:14 pm

So - I have a similar question, and was wondering if anybody has some practical guidance on how to approach fitting an Oil Pan Heater...

As many of you may know, the Oil Pan/Sump on the Ural is not flat. It has ridges that might be for cooling or to reinforce the Oil Pan itself - about 1/2 an inch or 1 cm apart.

So a Heat Pad won't fit onto them, or bend around then, or fit between them...

My thought is (and please tell me if you think this won't work, or have an alternative solution) - fill the gaps with metal and a silicon weld, and put the Heat Pad on that. The heat could then be conducted to the Oil Pan.

In other words use some nuts or nails, and then apply a welding compound (like a silicon gasket or welding material) that will bind and hold them in place (for low and high temperatures), and then stick the heat pad to that. For example - Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature.

To help support it and hold it in place, some sort of heat shield, an asbestos-like insulation pad (1/4 inch or so) to go between the Pan Heater and the Skid Plate.

I read in the older posts here about using a Sterno stove, or oily rags - sorry not doing that. Also in a post above, I read that Hubert Kriegel (may be Ride in Peace) modified his oil pan by grinding it down in order to fit the Heat Pad.

Thoughts anybody? Many thanks, Adrian (riding in Canada soon - temperatures expected to be approx -30 degrees F
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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by jeffsaline » Sun Jan 05, 2020 9:07 pm

I think if I was needing an oil pan heater that bad I would consider making an oil pan to fit the heater.

Since you have a skid plate removing the ridges from the pan currently in use sounds viable. Maybe consider sandwiching the heating element between the oil pan and another flat plate (maybe something that provides some insulating value).

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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by jaybird » Mon Jan 06, 2020 12:18 pm

adriancw wrote:
Sun Jan 05, 2020 7:14 pm
So - I have a similar question, and was wondering if anybody has some practical guidance on how to approach fitting an Oil Pan Heater...

As many of you may know, the Oil Pan/Sump on the Ural is not flat. It has ridges that might be for cooling or to reinforce the Oil Pan itself - about 1/2 an inch or 1 cm apart.

So a Heat Pad won't fit onto them, or bend around then, or fit between them...

My thought is (and please tell me if you think this won't work, or have an alternative solution) - fill the gaps with metal and a silicon weld, and put the Heat Pad on that. The heat could then be conducted to the Oil Pan.

In other words use some nuts or nails, and then apply a welding compound (like a silicon gasket or welding material) that will bind and hold them in place (for low and high temperatures), and then stick the heat pad to that. For example - Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature.

To help support it and hold it in place, some sort of heat shield, an asbestos-like insulation pad (1/4 inch or so) to go between the Pan Heater and the Skid Plate.

I read in the older posts here about using a Sterno stove, or oily rags - sorry not doing that. Also in a post above, I read that Hubert Kriegel (may be Ride in Peace) modified his oil pan by grinding it down in order to fit the Heat Pad.

Thoughts anybody? Many thanks, Adrian (riding in Canada soon - temperatures expected to be approx -30 degrees F
Why not just use a dipstick style oil heater?
Much easier solution, and when you don’t need it, wipe it off and put it in the tool roll.

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Re: Oil pan heater

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Jan 06, 2020 12:44 pm

So a Heat Pad won't fit onto them, or bend around then, or fit between them...

My thought is (and please tell me if you think this won't work, or have an alternative solution) - fill the gaps with metal and a silicon weld, and put the Heat Pad on that. The heat could then be conducted to the Oil Pan.
Too much faffing about.

How about, a shallow pan of some sort, meat dish? Deep enough to hold the heater pad and immerse the sump – I assume pad will be waterproof – fill it with water, turn it on. It will need to be supported on something of course. Then, problee want additive in the water to prevent corrosion of the alloy etc. Starts getting complicated...
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