Hub Buster

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Here's the place to chat about off-topic stuff, hobbies, and other toys you got. No political posts, they will be deleted and the poster warned. We're not always "politically correct", but the Steeds site is apolitical.
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darkhorse
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Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Sat Aug 17, 2019 4:33 pm

I have a 2014 Traverse that the ABS, Traction Control, and Stability Control all lit up on the dashboard as not working. The most annoying issue related to this was that while the three items mentioned above were erroring out and appeared to be disabled, the all speed traction control appeared to continue to function which meant that when you hit about 30mph the engine would cut out and not allow the car to go much faster. By scanning with a OBD scanner that read ABS codes, I found that I had the following:

C0045-5A
C0245-00
C0110-00

The one error pertained to the wheel speed of the left rear wheel. According to the service manual the likely culprits for this error were the wheel speed sensor or the magnetic ring on the hub that the sensor reads. I decided to replace the wheel speed sensor first since it was easier and less expensive. For some reason this cleared the two errors that had nothing to do with the left rear wheel but the error that tied to that wheel remained. I replaced the hub and the remaining error code cleared.

Removing the hub assembly turned out to be a challenge. I tried pounding with a sledge, using a 10lb slide hammer and copious amounts of foul language with no success. I wound up buying Hub Buster pictured below and was able to remove it with three swings of a 3lb sledge hammer. I took the picture with the new hub in place as I did not think to take the picture before I removed the old hub. The tool is a little pricey ($120) but turned out to be a bargain as I don't know of any other option to remove the hub assembly.

Another item I found challenging was removing the wheel speed sensor. It is about a 1.75" long and inserts through the wheel knuckle. Amazingly, the plastic seized to the aluminum. I wound up snapping the top of it off and pushing the remaining part of the sensor out of the wheel knuckle with a drift pin. I read some forums with guys who decided to drill it out with some regrettable outcomes.

Here are links to the scanner I bought to read the ABS codes and to the Hub Buster.

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-Wheel- ... way&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR ... UTF8&psc=1

I thought I would pass this along in case it helps someone else out.
IMG_20190817_124328837_HDR(1).jpg
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2001 Ural Deco Classic
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Lmo
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by Lmo » Mon Aug 19, 2019 3:40 am

3 swings? Apparently you lucked out!

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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Mon Aug 19, 2019 7:19 am

Looks like he is working on a front hub assembly. Those typically insert much deeper into the knuckle than the rear ones do. For anyone who has done a front one, getting it free in six minutes would be a gift. I also noticed that he spent most of his time hitting the device from the wrong direction. Given that I have not used this to remove a front hub assembly yet I will refrain from saying that he may have made a mistake. Maybe he learned that you need to hit the device in the opposite manner that the manufacturer recommends to be successful.

The last front one I did I wound up removing the steering knuckle with the hub attached and took it to a machine shop and had them press it out. It was a lot more work to remove the steering knuckle and control arm and reinstall the whole apparatus.
2001 Ural Deco Classic
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by BlueRockCrawler » Wed Aug 21, 2019 9:36 pm

In your pic, I see a threaded hole at the 6 o'clock position on the hub. Is there another at twelve'o'clock? Can you screw the appropriate sized bolt in there and press it off? It looks similar to bolt holes on the front rotor of my car put there for this purpose. It wasn't immediately obvious to me why there were two threaded holes but it cost less than 50 cents for the bolts and made removal dead simple.
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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:16 am

There is just one threaded hole on this setup. I have seen cars with two holes and specifically a Hyundai that I have worked on has two holes. They come in handy for removing a frozen rotor from the hub as well. I have seen kits on Amazon where they sell bolts with knobs on the end that fit in these holes. With just one hole the only use is for holding the rotor on at the assembly plant.
2001 Ural Deco Classic
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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:43 am

Here is a picture of the original hub.
IMG_20190822_063115544_kindlephoto-281828186.jpg
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by VWNate1 » Sun Sep 08, 2019 9:09 pm

? I'm missing something here ~

I have an old tool for this job that has three legs on it that are adjustable, you use the lug nuts to hold it to the tub then screw the center bolt in until it's tight then *SMACK* the bolt with a single jack .

It's pops off hubs very well but also occasionally takes some serious pounding ~ I don't see any benefit to pulling sideways here....
-Nate
'94 Tourist 650
'96 650 Solo
'10 Solo sT Crashed & Ruined 6.26.17 :cry:

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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Sun Sep 08, 2019 11:12 pm

I have an old tool for this job that has three legs on it that are adjustable, you use the lug nuts to hold it to the tub then screw the center bolt in until it's tight then *SMACK* the bolt with a single jack .
I think you are describing something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peG6ko_x2Gg

Here is the tool I recently bought and was very impressed with:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09Zz4JLC0zM

The one that you have can be a bit more work and puts a fair amount of pressure on the half-shaft which can damage the CV joints. I suspect either one will work. In all honesty, I think even the guy in the video further up in this thread who was using the Hub Buster upside down had an easier time than the guy in the video with the tool that you have. If I already owned the tool that you have I would likely tough it out and see if I could be successful with it next time I needed to remove a hub assembly. If I did not have a tool for this job and was going to buy one, I would buy the Hub Buster.
2001 Ural Deco Classic
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Hub Tool

Post by VWNate1 » Sun Sep 08, 2019 11:23 pm

Yes, it was *exactly* that tool and no, there's no possible way for it to damage of affect the CV Joints, it's difficult to imagine how you'd even come up with that unless you've never had a hub / stub axle apart before.....

OTOH, I'm a Journeyman Mechanic who's had to replace the hub bearings after foolish ham fisted tools like this buster were used on drive hubs .
-Nate
'94 Tourist 650
'96 650 Solo
'10 Solo sT Crashed & Ruined 6.26.17 :cry:

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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:00 pm

there's no possible way for it to damage of affect the CV Joints,
You're mistaken. Your tool of choice puts the entire pressure required to break the hub assembly free from the steering or wheel knuckle on the half shaft thereby transferring the pressure to the CV joints. As you may or may not know, the CV joints are part of the half shaft. The CV joints are not designed to take that type of inward force and may end up damaged. I could add some insults here but have no aspirations to be equally petulant. My goal for this post was to share some information that I found useful, not just on the tools I used but in sorting through the myriad of error codes that GM vehicles trigger when the bearing in the hub assembly fails on a vehicle equipped with ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control.
2001 Ural Deco Classic
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IndyChizzle
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by IndyChizzle » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:00 pm

darkhorse wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:00 pm
there's no possible way for it to damage of affect the CV Joints,
You're mistaken. Your tool of choice puts the entire pressure required to break the hub assembly free from the steering or wheel knuckle on the half shaft thereby transferring the pressure to the CV joints. As you may or may not know, the CV joints are part of the half shaft. The CV joints are not designed to take that type of inward force and may end up damaged. I could add some insults here but have no aspirations to be equally petulant. My goal for this post was to share some information that I found useful, not just on the tools I used but in sorting through the myriad of error codes that GM vehicles trigger when the bearing in the hub assembly fails on a vehicle equipped with ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control.
Could you post a picture or a drawing? I'm having a hard time visualizing.
Sidecar newby trying to get started...

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Re: Hub Buster

Post by VWNate1 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 10:28 am

O.K., I was thinking the CV Joint was inboard of the pressure points, those being the splined axle stub and hub .

Please do post pictures of the axle when it's off the car, I'd like to learn .
-Nate
'94 Tourist 650
'96 650 Solo
'10 Solo sT Crashed & Ruined 6.26.17 :cry:

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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:09 pm

Could you post a picture or a drawing? I'm having a hard time visualizing.
Please do post pictures of the axle when it's off the car, I'd like to learn .
As much as I love you guys, I don't see myself removing the half shaft from one of my vehicles for this purpose. In lieu of that, I used my Google machine to find some pictures and added some annotations.
Halfshaft with Puller 1.jpg
Halfshaft with Puller 2.jpg
Let the fun begin...
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2001 Ural Deco Classic
PowerArc Ignition
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Inertial Supercharger

When you come to a fork in the road, take it.

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VWNate1
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by VWNate1 » Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:34 pm

Thanx ;

That's what I expected to see and I stand by my orginal comment .

There's no way to damage the CV Joint, pressure is only applied to the outer end piece .

BT, DT as part of the job .
-Nate
'94 Tourist 650
'96 650 Solo
'10 Solo sT Crashed & Ruined 6.26.17 :cry:

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darkhorse
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Re: Hub Buster

Post by darkhorse » Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:32 pm

That's what I expected to see and I stand by my orginal comment .

There's no way to damage the CV Joint, pressure is only applied to the outer end piece .

BT, DT as part of the job .
I expected nothing less. I was mainly concerned about the folks who are unfamiliar with the process leaving the conversation with misinformation. There's plenty of detail here for folks to make a good decision for themselves if they decide to take this job on. Some will base their decision on facts described in detail by someone who successfully made the repair and some will make their decision based on a description by someone with claimed credentials who vaguely recalls the details of what they did.
2001 Ural Deco Classic
PowerArc Ignition
Mikuni VM28 Carburetors
Inertial Supercharger

When you come to a fork in the road, take it.

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