Possibly Helpful Stuff

[wooden nickel]

If you remove the front brake light switch and then don't remember to look for the spacer between the switch and lever, it will disappear. If the vanishing spacer syndrome afflicts you, you can make one. I used a Stainless Steel M5 bolt that was long enough to have an un-threaded portion. Cut off the threads and put the unthreaded section against the lever. Mark it and cut it off about flush. The switch will adjust a little so it doesn't have to be down to a gnat's eyebrow. It took me two tries so I would cut it a little above flush and then grind it down a little if needed should I make the same mistake again.

[wooden nickel]

As I reassemble my bike 6 months after I did a bare frame tear down to stop rust, I find myself having some real valuable learning experiences (aka screw-ups).
Today I discovered if you have had the alternator off and upon re-installation you have tail lights but no battery light or starter, try changing the two small wire connectors on the back of the alternator.
By the way, It isn't 100% yet, but the bike runs & I got my first Ural fix after a six month dry spell.

[BRO]

As I reassemble my bike 6 months after I did a bare frame tear down to stop rust, I find myself having some real valuable learning experiences (aka screw-ups).
By the way, It isn't 100% yet, but the bike runs & I got my first Ural fix after a six month dry spell.

CONGRADS on being back on the beast. I think we all get bitten by working on our own projects & something just isn't so simple anymore.

[uraltourist1]

Driveshaft rear universal (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes with a grease fitting that cannot be gotten to without dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.

[GHGoodwin]

For gas cap - Curtis HD75 (For Honda)
For ignition - Ilco X109 FT43

fits my 2011 tourist.

[lendrinkard]

Air filters
Stens 100-040 paper filter

Kohler 235116-S paper filter

I would not put heavy money on the flow rate but they are the same size as the reusable filters. Would do in a pinch and cost less a few dollars. I see them online for less than $5.00. There is a foam pre-filter from Stens (100-750). I would think it would be useful if you were eating a lot of dust.

len

[GHGoodwin]

Found this today. High temp phenolic replacement socket for headlamp. NAPA . $6 and some change.

CIMG0180.JPG

[Lagniappe]

URAL PARTS, CROSS-REFERENCED
From http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/view ... p?f=5&t=81
Original list by, & edited 3 times by Fat Mack - last time on Thu Jul 26, 2007 ... I just tidied up a bit, added from comments since Fat Mack quit updating
(Parts differ between 650 & 750 Urals ... & ... there undoubtedly are errors in this list ... but if you use it judiciously, it might shorten your search)
I've tried to keep w/ Fat Mack's format & redundant topical entries ... if some redundancies have been missed, let me know.
CORRECTIONS & ADDITIONS ARE APPRECIATED (please include your year & model)
For a starter, there seems to be a discrepancy re: Brake & Running Light Bulb numbers.

Additive, Fuel: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Additive, Gasoline: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Air Box Hose:**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/ a parts dept & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com

Air Filters:
K&N: E-2470 from store.knfilters.com
NAPA: 7-02204, SME 702204, 702204; 7-02228, SME 702228, 702228
Stens 100-040 paper filter
Kohler 235116-S paper filter
I would not put heavy money on the flow rate but they are the same size as the reusable filters. Would do in a pinch & cost less a few dollars. I see them online for <$5. There is a foam pre-filter from Stens (100-750). I would think it would be useful if you were eating a lot of dust.

Air Intake Hose:
Air Box Hose:**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/ a parts dept & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ www.wicksaircraft.com

Alternator Gear Woodruff Key: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)
Alternator, Generator, Starter Repair part source, w/pictures & some dimensional drawings www.alternatorsparts.com/products.htm

BATTERY: http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/u ... moval.html
Interstate #YTX20L-BS
Odyssey #PC680
Wal-Mart #ES20LBS

BEARINGS:
Clutch shaft: one 6205 Ball Bearing; one 12204 Roller Bearing
Crankshaft: SKF6207
Main shaft: two 6304 Ball Bearings
Steering Head: from http://www.cycleworks.net, or BMW #31412 from Ural or vintage BMW dealers
Wheel Bearings (all): Timken 30204, 30204M 9\KM1, (Universal #30204) (are these needle or ball bearings?)
Sealed Wheel Bearing is National 204f. Fits my new 08. I think its the same size as the 650's.

Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)

Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156

Brake Pad Tension Spring
BMW brake pad spring for a 1975 R75 motorcycle. BMW #34-21-1-457-091 (& $2 cheaper than the Ural spring)
It was a bit shorter than the Ural spring but I think that's because the Ural spring that was undamaged had gotten stretched a bit from over 18km of usage. It went on just fine & in minutes my brake pads were back in place & wheel mounted. I've been riding on it for 2 days now with no issue. Picture: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... -that.html

Breather Hose, Crankcase (fitting to air filter box) NAPA #28401 @ $0.78 / ft.

BULBS
Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W
(http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0
Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156

CAP, GAS: NON-LOCKING Stant 10817
= CST (Cooling Systems Technology) #6817 for $7.50
= Beck/Arnely #159-0042
= IMC Motorad #240-46001-672
= MGC 815, 816, 817, or 822
CAP, Gas: Curtis HD75 (for Honda) fits my 2011 Tourist.
LOCKING Gas Cap (Filler Neck Dia 1.75") GM caps are supposed to fit … Stant 10591
The cross reference it's a 1982 Ford Granada Regular Threaded Fuel Cap.
COMMENT: considering you have dangling fuel lines that can be pulled off of fittings under the tank ... a locking gas cap will only keep the stupid from stealing your gas (& it might keep them from pi$$ing into your tank)

CARBURETOR AIR INTAKE HOSE:
**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12 after tax. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. Don't have the part number right now, but I'll post it soon so you can find it for yourselves. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/a parts dept. & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com

Carburetor, Keihin: 2004 & 2006 Suzuki LT-A400 4-wheelers (& some other models) use the same Keihin CVK32 carburetor that the late model Urals do. My local Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki dealer actually had some parts for the carbs on the shelf (the tiny little idle mix screw O-ring for example & parts can be ordered on line at a discount if you can wait for delivery. Below is link to a parts fiche for the carburetor from Suzuki Parts Nation website, the dealers use the same parts fiche.
http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pages/... 6011010012 .... no longer a valid link

Clutch Shaft Bearings: one 6205 Ball Bearing; one 12204 Roller Bearing

Coil, Ignition: Accel Power Pulse Coil with Accel 8mm Wires

Connector, Headlamp: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Cotter Pins: 2x20; 3.2x20; 3.2x32; 4x12; 4x36; 5x45; 8x16

Crankcase Breather Hose (fitting to air filter box) NAPA #28401 @ $0.78 / ft.

Crankcase Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50

Crankshaft Bearings: SKF6207

Crankshaft Rear Main Seal: Butyl Chicago Rawhide #21642 or VITON 21641
Crankshaft Rear Seal: NAPA #66524 50mm x 70mm x 9mm (see above?)

Cylinder Rings: 4 cylinder Ford (Hastings) Rings fit the the 650 & 750 Urals

Deep Sump:
Kenneth Ulrich; 1486 County Road DB; Mosinee, Wisc 54455; (715) 693-6201; Machrat@aol.com
Part 8.101-01131.01 @ http://www.imz-ural.com/accessories

Drain Plugs:
Transmission, Crankcase, or Final Drive: M14 x 1.50
Helicoil: http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN ... _37149.htm, Metric M14-1.50
Magnetic Drain Plug: ES#5385 @ http://www.ecstuning.com

Drain Plug Crush Washer, for Oil Drain Plug: Honda M14 Crush Washer #94109-14000

Drive Shafts - U-Joint:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/ Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft U-Joint is 1979 MGB or MG Midget, they both use this extremely common joint.
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.
Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk Fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

Drive Shaft Seal Collar: (IMZ-8.103-6205334) 33mm x 49.5mm x 8mm

ELECTRICAL:
Battery: Interstate #YTX20L-BS; Wal-Mart #ES20LBS; Odyssey #PC680 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/u ... moval.html
BULBS:Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W
(http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0
Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Ignition Coil: Accel Power Pulse Coil with Accel 8mm Wires
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Relays: Standard Motor Products relay RY-115; Stant EL 13 CarQuest
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156
Spark Plugs: NGK - BP7HS, Autolite 273, Bosch WGBC, Champion L82YC, Denso W22FP-U 650
Spark Plug wires: Belden 701002; NGK #8048 @ http://www.parts-unlimited.com

Filters, Air:
K&N: E-2470 from store.knfilters.com
NAPA: 7-02204, SME 702204, 702204; 7-02228, SME 702228, 702228

Filters, Fuel:
Metal (opaque):
Plastic (see-thru): SKU 111 209 190 @ http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com
Others: WIX #33011; NAPA #3011 or 3030?; CarQuest #86011; EFI #GF95; Purolator #F21124; FRAM #G4164; AC Delco #GF461;

Final Drive Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50
Final Drive Oil Seal that keeps the final drive lubricant from getting past the splines into the brake area (and then down an overflow drain tube that exits ~1.5" in front of the final drive drain bolt) is Napa P/N 17750, ~$10. It's 60 x 45 x 8.

FLUIDS:
Additive, Fuel: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)
Fuel: 91-Octane Unleaded (89 works fine)
Engine & Gearbox Oil: Premium Grade SAE 20W/50 petroleum based detergent oil designed for air-cooled engines.
Final Drive Oil: Premium Grade Automotive 90 EP gear oil
Spindle Oil/Industrial Spindle Oil: ZoomSpout
For Non-Specific Lubrication Points: Pusser’s Fix-all or WD-40

FUEL:
Fuel: 91-octane unleaded (89 works fine)
Fuel additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)
FUEL CAP: NON-LOCKING Stant 10817
= CST (Cooling Systems Technology) #6817 for $7.50
= Beck/Arnely #159-0042
= IMC Motorad #240-46001-672
= MGC 815, 816, 817, or 822
CAP, Gas: Curtis HD75 (for Honda) fits my 2011 Tourist.
LOCKING Gas Cap (Filler Neck Dia 1.75") GM caps are supposed to fit … Stant 10591
The cross reference it's a 1982 Ford Granada Regular Threaded Fuel Cap.
COMMENT: considering you have dangling fuel lines that can be pulled off of fittings under the tank ... a locking gas cap will only keep the stupid from stealing your gas (& it might keep them from pi$$ing into your tank)
FUEL: Carburetor: 2004 & 2006 Suzuki LT-A400 4-wheelers (& some other models) use the same Keihin CVK32 carburetor that the late model Urals do. My local Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki dealer actually had some parts for the carbs on the shelf (the tiny little idle mix screw O-ring for example & parts can be ordered on line at a discount if you can wait for delivery. Below is link to a parts fiche for the carburetor from Suzuki Parts Nation website, the dealers use the same parts fiche.
http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pages/... 6011010012 .... no longer a valid link
Fuel Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)
Fuel Filters:
Metal (opaque):
Plastic (see-thru): SKU 111 209 190 from http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com
Others: WIX #33011; NAPA #3011 or 3030?; CarQuest #86011; EFI #GF95; Purolator #F21124; FRAM #G4164; AC Delco #GF461; BOSCH #71936
Fuel Line: 1/4"
Fuel Line Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.
GAS CAP: NON-LOCKING Stant 10817
= CST (Cooling Systems Technology) #6817 for $7.50
= Beck/Arnely #159-0042
= IMC Motorad #240-46001-672
= MGC 815, 816, 817, or 822
CAP, Gas: Curtis HD75 (for Honda) fits my 2011 Tourist.
LOCKING Gas Cap (Filler Neck Dia 1.75") GM caps are supposed to fit … Stant 10591
The cross reference it's a 1982 Ford Granada Regular Threaded Fuel Cap.

COMMENT: considering you have dangling fuel lines that can be pulled off of fittings under the tank ... a locking gas cap will only keep the stupid from stealing your gas (& it might keep them from pi$$ing into your tank)

Gas Cap Key: ILCO X84 HD4

Gas Line Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.
Gasoline: 91-Octane Unleaded (89 works fine)

Gasoline Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Gear, Alternator, Woodruff Key: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)

Grease: Lithium-Based Automotive Chassis Grease

Headlamp: H6014; Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W,
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

HOSES:
Air Box Hose:**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/ a parts dept & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com
Hose, Crankcase Breather (fitting to air filter box) NAPA #28401 @ $0.78 / ft.
Hose, Fuel: 1/4"
Hose, Fuel: Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)

Ignition:
Coil: Accel Power Pulse Coil with Accel 8mm Wires
Key: ILCO 1526R; ILCO X258; ILCO 1098 B1, X109 FT43
Spark Plugs: NGK - BP7HS, Autolite 273, Bosch WGBC, Champion L82YC, Denso W22FP-U 650
Spark Plug Wires: Belden 701002; NGK #8048 @ http://www.parts-unlimited.com

Inner Tubes: MSR HD 110/90-19 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/ural-tub ... ement.html

Input Shaft Seal: 32mm x 45mm x 8mm

Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)

INTAKE HOSE, AIR: **Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12 after tax. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. Go to a John Deere w/a parts dept. & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should have it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com

Joint, U - Drive Shafts:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/ Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.
Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk Fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

K-750 (early) & M-72 transmissions (still used on 2006 Ural Transmissions)
Output Yoke Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 35x48x8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8
Main Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): two 6304 Ball Bearings
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

Keihin Carburetor: 2004 & 2006 Suzuki LT-A400 4-wheelers (& some other models) use the same Keihin CVK32 carburetor that the late model Urals do. My local Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki dealer actually had some parts for the carbs on the shelf (the tiny little idle mix screw O-ring for example & parts can be ordered on line at a discount if you can wait for delivery. Below is link to a parts fiche for the carburetor from Suzuki Parts Nation website, the dealers use the same parts fiche.
http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pages/... 6011010012 .... no longer a valid link

Keys:
Gas Cap: ILCO X84 HD4
Ignition: ILCO 1526R; ILCO X258; ILCO 1098 B1
Woodruff, for Alternator Gear: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)
Woodruff, for 4th Gear: 6mm x 6.5mm

Kick Starter Shaft Collar Seal: 20mm x 40mm x 10mm

LAMPS:Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156

LIGHTS:Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156

Line, Fuel: 1/4"

Line, Fuel: Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.

LUBRICANTS:
Engine & Gearbox Oil: Premium Grade SAE 20W/50 Petroleum-Based Detergent Oil designed for Air-Cooled Engines
Final Drive Oil: Premium Grade Automotive 90 EP gear oil
Fuel Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / gallon of fuel)
Grease: Lithium-Based Automotive Chassis Grease
Non-specific Lubrication Points: Pusser’s Fix-all or WD-40
Spindle Oil/Industrial Spindle Oil: ZoomSpout

M-72 & early K-750 transmissions (still used on 2006 Ural Transmissions)
Output Yoke Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 35x48x8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8
Main Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): two 6304 Ball Bearings
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

Magnetic Drain Plug: ES#5385 (http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_... uctID=5385)

Main Shaft Bearings: two 6304 Ball Bearings

Main Shaft Seal: (IMZ-8.103-04015) 36mm x 48mm x 7mm

Mirrors: get 10 mm Lt Hand Thread & 10 mm Rt Hand Thread Honda Mirrors

OIL:
Engine & Gearbox Oil: Premium Grade SAE 20W/50 petroleum based detergent oil designed for air-cooled engines
Final Drive Oil: Premium Grade Automotive 90 EP gear oil
Spindle Oil/Industrial Spindle Oil: ZoomSpout
Fuel Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Oil Filter: EMGO #10-26960

Oil Seal, Final Drive: that keeps the final drive lubricant from getting past the splines into the brake area (& then down an overflow drain tube that exits ~1.5" in front of the final drive drain bolt) is Napa #17750, ~$10. It's 60 x 45 x 8

Output Yoke Seal: 35mm x 48mm x 8mm

Phenolic Headlamp Socket: High Temp Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin# ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Pins, Cotter: 2x20; 3.2x20; 3.2x32; 4x12; 4x36; 5x45; 8x16

Plugs, Drain:
Transmission, Crankcase, or Final Drive: M14 x 1.50
Helicoil: http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN ... _37149.htm, Metric M14-1.50
Magnetic Drain Plug: ES#5385 (http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_... uctID=5385)

PLUGS, SPARK: NGK - BP7HS; Autolite 273; Bosch WGBC; Champion L82YC; Denso W22FP-U 650

Rear Crankshaft Seal: NAPA #66524 50mm x 70mm x 9mm

Relays:
Standard Motor Products Relay RY-115
Stant EL 13 CarQuest
 
Rings, Cylinder: 4 cylinder Ford (Hastings) Rings fit the the 650 & 750 Urals

SEALS:
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing

Crankshaft Rear Main Seal: Butyl Chicago Rawhide #21642 or VITON 21641 (see below?)
Drive Shaft Seal Collar: (IMZ-8.103-6205334) 33mm x 49.5mm x 8mm
Final Drive Oil Seal that keeps the final drive lubricant from getting past the splines into the brake area (& then down an Overflow Drain Tube that exits ~1.5" in front of the Final Drive Drain Bolt) Napa #17750, ~$10. It's 60 x 45 x 8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8

Kick Starter Shaft Collar Seal: 20mm x 40mm x 10mm
Main Shaft Seal: (IMZ-8.103-04015) 36mm x 48mm x 7mm
Output Yoke Seal: 35mm x 48mm x 8mm
Rear Crankshaft Seal: NAPA #66524 50mm x 70mm x 9mm (see above?)
Transmission Output (Rear) Shaft Seal: NAPA #13941 35mm x 48mm x 8mm
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

Shafts, Drive - U-Joint:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.

Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk Fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

Sidecar Lights:
Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Other Sidecar Lights: 1156

Socket, Headlamp: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Spring: Brake Pad Tension
BMW brake pad spring for a 1975 R75 motorcycle. BMW #34-21-1-457-091 (& $2 cheaper than the Ural spring)
It was a bit shorter than the Ural spring but I think that's because the Ural spring that was undamaged had gotten stretched a bit from over 18km of usage. It went on just fine & in minutes my brake pads were back in place & wheel mounted. I've been riding on it for 2 days now with no issue. Picture: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... -that.html

Steering Head Bearings: @ http://www.cycleworks.net, or BMW #31412 from Ural or vintage BMW dealers

Sump, Deep:
Kenneth Ulrich; 1486 County Road DB; Mosinee, Wisconsin 54455; (715) 693-6201; Machrat@aol.com
Part 8.101-01131.01 @ http://www.imz-ural.com/accessories

Tension Spring: Brake Pad Tension
BMW brake pad spring for a 1975 R75 motorcycle. BMW #34-21-1-457-091 (& $2 cheaper than the Ural spring)
It was a bit shorter than the Ural spring but I think that's because the Ural spring that was undamaged had gotten stretched a bit from over 18km of usage. It went on just fine & in minutes my brake pads were back in place & wheel mounted. I've been riding on it for 2 days now with no issue. Picture: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... -that.html

Tires - Inner Tubes: MSR HD 110/90-19 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/ural-tub ... ement.html

Transmission Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50

Transmission Output (Rear) Shaft Seal: NAPA #13941 35mm x 48mm x 8mm

Transmission Parts for M-72 & early K-750 transmissions (still used on 2006 Ural Transmissions)
Output Yoke Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 35x48x8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8
Main Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): two 6304 Ball Bearings
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

U-Joint - Drive Shafts:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/ Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.
Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

WHEELS:
Wheel Bearings (all): Timken 30204, 30204M 9\KM1, (Universal #30204) (are these needle or ball bearings?)
Inner Tubes: MSR HD 110/90-19 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/ural-tub ... ement.html

Wires, Spark Plug: Belden 701002; NGK #8048 @ http://www.parts-unlimited.com

Woodruff Keys
For Alternator Gear: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)
For 4th Gear: 6mm x 6.5mm

[chefkoli]

Any of you fellas know what brake shoes I'd need for my ride? I need a brake job...bad.

[uraltourist1]

Never ever heard of anyone wearing out a set of Ural brake shoes, front PADS, yes, they are the same as a Victory 92 series front pads.

[chefkoli]

I have drums on all 3. The shoes on the front are worn down pretty bad at 20000 klicks. The previous owner had them adjusted horribly wrong

[uraltourist1]

I have an old unused set, for free even, just reimburse the USPS Priority Mail costs, about $6.00. Paypal to my email will do just fine. Send me your physical address by email and I will send ASAP.

[hyperboarder]

I've come to like Motobatt batteries, the MBTX20U cross references to the Interstate so that should fit. If mine is toast when I go to fire it up next week that's what I'll try replacing with.

[uraltourist1]

Sears and K-Mart also sell them for in the area of $85.00 or so. Do it yourself AGM types with add your own fluids, stabilize overnight, apply a stabiliization charge at 2 amps or so overnight, seal the tops and you are ready to go. EXT20 is sort of the generic lettering for most.

[lendrinkard]

Had a running light burn out. I found a Sylvania 89 bulb that is 7 watts and not 5 watts.

Walmart same base same price.

It is a Sylvania 89 LL (Long Life)

It is only a little brighter than the Sylvania #97 (5 watt) but every little bit helps.

Len