2018 GearUp dies while on the road

[curlysnipe]

Good Day,
I've been having this recurring issue where I'm riding and suddenly my instrument panel LED window flashes red and my bike sputters and dies out. I've been wondering if my battery is taking a charge of if I need a new one. Has anyone out there had a similar experience?

[S 854]

Mine isn’t a fueli rig, but I’ve experienced a similar shut down... turned out to be a faulty ignition switch in my case...

Quick way to diagnose is to wiggle the key next time this shut down occurs... if the engine picks up you’ve found the culprit...

[Mr Wazzock]

Have you got a bunch of other keys hanging on the ring, this is bad for the switch, I think.

[RC20]

Your display will shift into a voltage mode that shows you what the battery/charger is doing. If its 14.5 or so at any speed, its charging.

More likely its something loose and as noted the ignition switch is a prime suspect.

Basics are a battery is 12 volt output. To store energy they put in 13.5 to 14.5 volts (Ural is 14 area)

If its idling the alternator can't make the voltage so you will see it drop below 12 if you just leave it sit there idling. To check you can crank in some throttle and watch the meter go up (or not if its not working).

About 1300 RPM it makes full charge. So any road speed in first gear it will be there.

[bterpstra]

Your display will shift into a voltage mode that shows you what the battery/charger is doing. If its 14.5 or so at any speed, its charging.

About 1300 RPM it makes full charge. So any road speed in first gear it will be there.

Dumbass newb question - if it makes a full charge at 1300 rpm, and I get stuck in traffic a lot and trail ride at low rpm, any benefit or way to just increase the idle speed? It's not like 1300 is terribly high. Most of my cars have been 800-1000

[S 854]

Dumbass newb question - if it makes a full charge at 1300 rpm, and I get stuck in traffic a lot and trail ride at low rpm...

If you sit in stalled traffic long enough to drain the battery at idle you should probably shut down your engine... I worry more about overheating than electrics in those conditions...

...and “low rpm” is a bad thing for your pressed together crank... Ural’s are much happier (and longer lived) when their engines are spinning...

See... there’s no such thing as a Dumbass newb question...

[Desantnik-VDV]

My '07 carbureted gets at the battery:

12.5 v @ 1000 RPM
13 v @ 1100 RPM

So, it does not take much of high RPM's to maintain the charge and charge the battery.

[Mr Wazzock]

Your sig says you have a 2019, if so then it has the Generation 2 Keihin EFI system, in that case the computer controls the idle speed, so I understand.

[windmill]

Dumbass newb question - if it makes a full charge at 1300 rpm, and I get stuck in traffic a lot and trail ride at low rpm, any benefit or way to just increase the idle speed? It's not like 1300 is terribly high. Most of my cars have been 800-1000

Having a short, low speed daily commute with plenty of stops, 2 rail crossings, and lots of traffic, and over the course of a week it can be enough to draw more than it charges. I addressed the situation by installing a Euro spec headlight switch that allows me to turn off the lights when warming up, and switching to all LEDs which reduces draw. It shouldn't be an issue trail riding, occasional traffic back ups.

Idle speed and balance is maintained by the ECU at 900 rpm +/-50

[phughes]

Dumbass newb question - if it makes a full charge at 1300 rpm, and I get stuck in traffic a lot and trail ride at low rpm, any benefit or way to just increase the idle speed? It's not like 1300 is terribly high. Most of my cars have been 800-1000

Having a short, low speed daily commute with plenty of stops, 2 rail crossings, and lots of traffic, and over the course of a week it can be enough to draw more than it charges. I addressed the situation by installing a Euro spec headlight switch that allows me to turn off the lights when warming up, and switching to all LEDs which reduces draw. It shouldn't be an issue trail riding, occasional traffic back ups.

Idle speed and balance is maintained by the ECU at 900 rpm +/-50

Barry,

Where did you get the headlight switch? I have been considering installing something like that on mine, for a different reason. If I take the Ural to our astronomy observatory, I need to have the light off as I drive in.

[windmill]

Dumbass newb question - if it makes a full charge at 1300 rpm, and I get stuck in traffic a lot and trail ride at low rpm, any benefit or way to just increase the idle speed? It's not like 1300 is terribly high. Most of my cars have been 800-1000

Having a short, low speed daily commute with plenty of stops, 2 rail crossings, and lots of traffic, and over the course of a week it can be enough to draw more than it charges. I addressed the situation by installing a Euro spec headlight switch that allows me to turn off the lights when warming up, and switching to all LEDs which reduces draw. It shouldn't be an issue trail riding, occasional traffic back ups.

Idle speed and balance is maintained by the ECU at 900 rpm +/-50

Barry,

Where did you get the headlight switch? I have been considering installing something like that on mine, for a different reason. If I take the Ural to our astronomy observatory, I need to have the light off as I drive in.

I got it surreptitiously through my connections at the mothership. They can sometimes be found on ebay. Just be aware the plug types, and the kill switch wiring has changed a few times over the years.

[phughes]

I got it surreptitiously through my connections at the mothership. They can sometimes be found on ebay. Just be aware the plug types, and the kill switch wiring has changed a few times over the years.

Thanks.

[Eric N]

Where did you get the headlight switch? I have been considering installing something like that on mine, for a different reason. If I take the Ural to our astronomy observatory, I need to have the light off as I drive in.

This is the 2013 switch: https://www.eurojamb.com/products/domin ... embly-ural

To adapt it to my 2018 (I ordered two, one for my 2013 and didn't realize the wiring changes), I had to do some surgery. The 2018 uses a relay vs direct power feed for the headlight and internals needed to be re-soldered in addition to changing the connector to match the 2018 connector. That worked fine for the headlight, but required a second relay activated by the switch to turn off the AUX lights.

Ural Lorraine is a good source for Euro Spec parts, it's possible he'd have a direct fit with a working switch: https://ural-france.fr/en_GB

[phughes]

This is the 2013 switch: https://www.eurojamb.com/products/domin ... embly-ural

To adapt it to my 2018 (I ordered two, one for my 2013 and didn't realize the wiring changes), I had to do some surgery. The 2018 uses a relay vs direct power feed for the headlight and internals needed to be re-soldered in addition to changing the connector to match the 2018 connector. That worked fine for the headlight, but required a second relay activated by the switch to turn off the AUX lights.

Ural Lorraine is a good source for Euro Spec parts, it's possible he'd have a direct fit with a working switch: https://ural-france.fr/en_GB

Thanks!

[Mr Wazzock]

Having a short, low speed daily commute with plenty of stops, 2 rail crossings, and lots of traffic, and over the course of a week it can be enough to draw more than it charges. I addressed the situation by installing a Euro spec headlight switch that allows me to turn off the lights when warming up, and switching to all LEDs which reduces draw. It shouldn't be an issue trail riding, occasional traffic back ups.

I did this too. I just put a rocker switch in the wire that feeds the dip switch:
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Headlamp mod-008.jpg

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Then later all the other lights were changed to LED bulbs.