Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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DrFaulken
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Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by DrFaulken » Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:17 pm

Hello everyone,

The rear brake (I think it's the pusher side) is making a grinding noise right before the bike comes to a dead stop. I'm guessing it's the final 2 - 3 MPH. The brake otherwise feels "normal," and brake performance is what I remember as "normal" as well.

Current stats:
  • 2018 GearUp
  • ~3200 miles on original brakes
  • Ridden all winter here in Minnesota, and the rear brake disc has a fair amount of surface rust / corrosion on it
  • I first noticed this last week; I rode 4 out of 7 days and by day 7 either it had gotten worse or my ears became tuned to hearing how bad it was and trying to minimize the noise.
My first thought was that the rust was part of riding all year. Then I thought that my rear pads were do for a replacement (it appears that some people get varying mileage, from 3500 - 5000+ miles, with someone stating they had 12,000 miles on the original rear pads :shock:

The thing that strikes me as odd about the brake pads wearing is that I don't experience *any* usual symptoms with worn pads I've noticed from other bikes and cars I've owned. Then again, the bike is different from everything else I've had so far :)

Any thoughts?
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Ironhand
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by Ironhand » Mon Apr 22, 2019 9:47 am

I would start with inspecting the pads to see how much braking material is left. Based on my own experience, your originals are likely very worn. Preferably, they should be replaced before there are any "symptoms."

If there is some life left in the pads, back the parking brake adjuster off, pull the caliper, clean piston, and be sure that it retracts fully when pressure is applied. The rotor is stainless, so other than some discoloration, you shouldn't be seeing too much corrosion. The swept surface should be clean.
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Mr Wazzock
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Apr 22, 2019 5:41 pm

^ What he said, the lining material on those pads start out as unusually thin from new. Also need to watch out for the caliper sticking on its slider pins, if that happens one pad will wear away faster than the other. Happened to me. I think you need to take these off fairly often to clean and grease the slider pins, 'cause they get crudded up. In the meantime I occasionally put a wee drop of silicone lube aerosol on each pin, on each side of the caliper, to stave off corrosion. I believe Tomcatfixer has had stainless slider pins made for his CT.

NB: I am now using EBC semi-sintered pads front and back. The original backs wore out, but lopsided, as I said one wore down faster than the other and there's not much lining to play with. The fronts wore wedge-shaped, this manifested as sometimes needing to pull the handlebar lever twice, first time to "pump it up" then second time it feels hard as it should. The reason became clear on taking the pads out, being thinner at the back edges created extra play which accounted for the need to pump the lever.
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Apr 22, 2019 5:43 pm

PS: you need to make sure the front caliper pistons stay free to slide too, early on I greased all mine with Brembo grease.
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DrFaulken
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by DrFaulken » Mon Apr 22, 2019 6:12 pm

Thank you! This is all very helpful.
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DrFaulken
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by DrFaulken » Mon Jun 03, 2019 6:37 pm

Follow up, in case anyone finds this thread via search someday: the rear pusher brake pads were ground all the way down to the metal. I replaced them myself with some effort, and the dealership stated that it's possible that the piston became overheated at some point and continued to apply pressure to the brakes, which caused their premature demise (~3500 miles).
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by Mr Wazzock » Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:12 pm

I think they might be talking bo11ox. I'm about to replace mine again, and looking back over my purchase history (I order a new spare pair whenever I've fitted the current spare pair) they seem to last about 4 - 5 months (of actual riding usage) and also, very similar mileage to yours. Never had any overheating of anything that I know of so I think it's just normal. (These are EBC semi-sintered BTW.) As I said above, the thickness of the friction material is about half what you normally get on other pads (that I've seen) so no, won't last as long. :D
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by harryball » Tue Jun 04, 2019 11:01 pm

I use about 2 sets of standard organic brake pads per K28 pusher on both of our 2017s. I get about 6000 miles per pusher so 3500 miles on a set of standard pads is actually pretty good.

Fortunately, due to my M70's brake issues since new (generously made possible by the dealer) I could change a set of rear brake pads with my eyes closed in less than 5 minutes.
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Re: Rear brake grinding noise at 2-3MPH

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Jun 06, 2019 3:24 pm

Yep, I've now used 2 pairs of pads, have just put in the 3rd pair, and a new pusher tire fitment is scheduled for next month. :D

Currently just over 15,000 km, I'm hoping the pusher K28 will last to around 18,000; it's been wearing at the rate of 1mm per each 2,000 miles, so should be doable. Should still be legal tread left when changed.

:D
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