2014 Patrol 1st Valve clearance Check

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
Forum rules
Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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Mr Wazzock
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Re: 2014 Patrol 1st Valve clearance Check

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Mar 04, 2019 12:38 pm

hotflash44 wrote:
Sun Mar 03, 2019 7:41 pm
Gino, your Ural shouldn't ping unless you have bad gas IMO, as the timing is set at the factory on the EFI Urals.
Not wishing to quibble, :D but my understanding is the ECU's do all timing adjustments, and only need to know when each crankshaft revolution occurs as a basis, which is given by the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). So no timing settings to adjust, except in the software (I imagine).

:D

As you were . . .
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

RC20
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Re: 2014 Patrol 1st Valve clearance Check

Post by RC20 » Fri Apr 05, 2019 4:55 pm

Just a note: The post that said initial valve movement is to tight is correct. As the valves seat they get tighter.

Long term the wear will loosen them but short of major wear that is catastrophic, not early one.

Better a bit too loose than too tight, on start up things do not go even expansion wise and they can go to tight for a short time.
The adjustment was so easy, I wanted to do them all.
The worst valve adjustment was the KLR 650 with shim in bucket design. On that one I just checked them and was within spec. To adjust the valves you have to remove the overhead camshaft.
The exact reason I got the Nighthawk S back ion the 80s, bucket and shim sucks and you could not get the shims because they were not supposed to need adjusting - better yet the Nighthawk S was SELF adjusting!!!!!. Some very clever air removal to allow a 11,000 rpm readline with hydraulic adjusters.

The R80 GS ran bad at idle, I only found out when I started riding it a lot. I finally decided to do the whole tune up drill. Valves were god awful too tight, last service the dealer, they had a good shop so no idea why they screwed that up. They never were helpful. They felt you should bring it in, so they can do it wrong?
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Electro Mechanical Systems

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Mr Wazzock
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2017 8:22 pm
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Re: 2014 Patrol 1st Valve clearance Check

Post by Mr Wazzock » Fri Apr 05, 2019 5:39 pm

My 850 Guzzi went like that once. Rode like sh!t and was hot weather too. I didn't look at the valve clearances because I'd redone them at the last service. So no need to again so soon right? However since then new gaskets had settled and closed the gaps up. :oops:

Moral: must never assume ...
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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