"How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
Forum rules
Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
Post Reply
User avatar
Hodakaguy
Comrade
Comrade
Posts: 42
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 7:34 am
Location: Eastern WA State
Contact:

"How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Hodakaguy » Sat Nov 21, 2020 11:26 am

Next up.....How To (And How NOT To) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies :D

The first GEN EFI throttle bodies on Urals are balanced via the dealer computer through the OBD Port on the bike. Since balancing throttle bodies is something you need to do on a regular basis that means you either need to take the bike to a dealer often (No dealer close to me....plus I prefer to do my own maint) or you need to find a way to perform the balance at home. There are a couple ways to do this and either will work. First you can modify an OBD cable to fit the bike and then get some software to perform the balance on your computer at home, or you can add vacuum ports to the throttle bodies and balance the bodies with a Twinmax or Harmonizer. Vacuum ports are quick and reliable plus I already own the balancing tools so ports it is for me.

"How To" add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

First up remove the throttle bodies from the bike. The factory intake clamps are one time use Oetiker clamps, these will need to be cut off to be removed. I will replace them with reusable thin (9mm) hose clamps with rolled edges so they don't dig into the rubber boots.

Image

Image

Image

Image


Replacement clamps.

Image



Throttle body off the bike. There is a flat portion on the throttle bodies (Top and Bottom) that can be used to add vacuum ports, I'll be adding mine to the top.

Image

Image

Image


Marking out the location for the vacuum ports. A word of caution here: You need to drill/tap on the far outside area of the flat surface, as you move towards the ECU their is a void and if you drill into this void the atmospheric pressure sensor on the ECU board will now to common to engine vacuum....turning your throttle body into an expensive paper weight......see below on the "How NOT To" section to see the results of drilling in the wrong spot or with a drill bit that is to large.

I'll be using a 1/4-28 Vacuum port and drilling with a #3 drill bit. Mark the drill location .200" from the outer edge of the flat spot.

Image

Image

Image



Prep for drilling. I used blue painters tape to cover up the internal ECU vacuum port just down stream of the butterfly (Don't want any aluminum shavings getting into this port). I also used painters tape to cover up the fuel injector, electrical connections etc. Then I took a wad of paper towel and stuffed it up against the butterfly prior to drilling.

Image

Image

Image

Image


Lightly clamped into the vise to drill/tap the body.

Image

Image


Hole drilled....now the tap.

Image

Image


Next up I drilled out a couple 1/4-28 grease zerk fittings to make some small vacuum ports.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


I installed the vacuum ports into the throttle bodies using Loctite 243

Image

Image

Image


With the throttle bodies back on the bike all that was left to do was to hook up the Harmonizer and balance the bodies at idle and operating speed (I like 3K rpm). The balance went easy and quick and the bike idles and runs soooooo smooth now! A quick and easy modification and well worth the time spent, now I can check balance during my routine maint sessions.

Image

Image


Balance completed and vacuum caps added to the ports to seal them off. These rubber caps have a way of dry rotting over time so I have a couple extras in the tool kit inside the trunk of the sidecar. I may swap out the rubber caps for Vinyl units.

Image


And Now.......

"How NOT to" add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

I wanted to post this section to help others and hopefully prevent some headache for those who also want to add vacuum ports to their throttle bodies. Originally I purchased a couple vacuum fittings with built in O-rings for this project. Although these fittings are sweet they are also larger than the ones I used above and required a larger hole to be drilled accordingly.

These are the fittings....nice.

Image


I marked the location and drilled out the hole.......DANG! Found that there is a hollow section that opens to the back side of the ECU board. I probably could have drilled the hole further outboard and maybe just cleared the void but it would have been close with this size of bit. If I had known the void existed I would have drilled accordingly.....lesson learned.

Image


Here's a mark up showing the safe area to drill. Follow the measurements in the first section above and you will be fine.

Image


I did make an attempt to seal the gap temporarily so I could ride that day (Was warm and sunny that day of coarse) but it didn't work out either. Some metal shavings had gotten down into the back side of the ECU through the void and shorted the ECU power to the throttle body housing. When I re-installed the bodies after the fix I found the ECU doing some bizarre things and acting erratic, also found that both throttle bodies were electrically hot even with the key off. Dang....no riding that day.

My improvised repair to seal the void. It would have worked as a temp fix if the shavings hadn't messed up the ECU.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Body showing electrically hot....not normal. I removed the body again and tried to blow out any shavings that had gotten into the ECU but there was no change, At this point I was done and knew a new throttle body would be needed.

Image


Luckily I was able to find a like new pair of used throttle bodies with the latest off road maps already installed (The ones I tapped at the start of the thread). With the new bodies balanced the bike is running better than ever before! And just to show the above shot is not normal here's a shot of the new bodies showing no voltage like they should be.

Image


Now off to rack up some more fun miles.


Hodakaguy
2018 Ural Gear UP, Kennewick WA.
In Memory Of The Crewman Ride Report: CLICK HERE
My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE
My Unimog U1300L Build: CLICK HERE

User avatar
chaos2
Order of Victory
Order of Victory
Posts: 5407
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:58 am
Location: sw ohio

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by chaos2 » Sat Nov 21, 2020 11:46 am

Great write up! Like the drilled out zircs, gotta remember that one.
Past afflictions include limey motocars and bikes, R60/2, R65ls, & a Citroen.
Now a DB Haanjo and Canyon CF SL Endurace, '87 K75s,
and a rusty 2012 GU bought new
dual K&N cones on homemade intake, 40/137.5
Raceway needles, Modtop exhaust, E starter delete
$29 VW Hydraulic steering dampener

stagewex
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Posts: 7816
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:45 pm
Location: New Rochelle, New York

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by stagewex » Sat Nov 21, 2020 12:11 pm

Great write up and nice that you can still use a Harmonizer on the eft's.

Still glad I can just throw a carb and it's innards into a ultrasonic vat of Simple Green.
Stagewex

Current Herd all running amok:
2019 Honda CRF450L (Elec Start)
2008 Vespa 150S (Elec & Kick Start)
2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
2006 Honda "Big Ruckus" PS250 (Elec Start)
1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only) *NOT running amok, out for Bottom & Top-End Rebuild.
1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)

List what you "have", keep the others in your precious memory bank.

User avatar
Kaliram
Comrade Colonel
Comrade Colonel
Posts: 282
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 11:01 pm
Location: Woodland Park, CO

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Kaliram » Sat Nov 21, 2020 12:23 pm

Great write-up! ....the only thing I might suggest would be to secure the rubber/yinyl caps on the vacuum ports with small zip ties. I found that a small backfire/hiccup can be enough to blow a cap off.

Here’s a pix of mine on my 2019 Ural:
F629637A-57CE-4D3F-AC61-F01B6D5000D3.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Current ride: 2019 Ural Gear Up, O.D. Green (“Jyoti”)
Blasts in the past: 2016 Ural Gear Up ("Shanti ")
2012 Ural Gear Up ("Tootles")
2009 KLX250, 2009 KLR650, 2004 BMW R1150GSA, 1966 Honda 305 SuperHawk

“Your life comes with a lifetime guarantee.”

Image

User avatar
Desantnik-VDV
Order of Lenin
Order of Lenin
Posts: 1238
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 5:21 pm
Location: Los Angeles

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Desantnik-VDV » Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:08 pm

Great methodical write up.
As I saw it only internally shorted board would put voltage to the (outside) body.
Alex
2007 GearUp - BMD (Боевая Машина Десанта)

The rest is just history.

User avatar
:FI:Igor
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Posts: 907
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:32 pm
Location: Near Dothan, AL 36375

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by :FI:Igor » Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:11 pm

Well written article. However, I recommend that the TB's not be modified. A "booboo" would be very expensive. Recommend using a computer to set/verify TH balance and engine idle. There is a very good article here on making the cable and software set up. If you're still inclined to use a differential nanometer, modify compliance fittings with vacuum ports/tubes.
2015 Ural Patrol (Светлана)
2006 HD Low Rider (sold)
2013 Ural Patrol 'Ursula' (2015 Totaled!)

User avatar
Hodakaguy
Comrade
Comrade
Posts: 42
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 7:34 am
Location: Eastern WA State
Contact:

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Hodakaguy » Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:46 pm

Kaliram wrote:
Sat Nov 21, 2020 12:23 pm
Great write-up! ....the only thing I might suggest would be to secure the rubber/yinyl caps on the vacuum ports with small zip ties. I found that a small backfire/hiccup can be enough to blow a cap off.

Here’s a pix of mine on my 2019 Ural:

F629637A-57CE-4D3F-AC61-F01B6D5000D3.jpeg
Nice addition, thanks for the post :cheers:

Hodakaguy
2018 Ural Gear UP, Kennewick WA.
In Memory Of The Crewman Ride Report: CLICK HERE
My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE
My Unimog U1300L Build: CLICK HERE

User avatar
Hodakaguy
Comrade
Comrade
Posts: 42
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 7:34 am
Location: Eastern WA State
Contact:

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Hodakaguy » Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:51 pm

:FI:Igor wrote:
Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:11 pm
Well written article. However, I recommend that the TB's not be modified. A "booboo" would be very expensive. Recommend using a computer to set/verify TH balance and engine idle. There is a very good article here on making the cable and software set up. If you're still inclined to use a differential nanometer, modify compliance fittings with vacuum ports/tubes.
Adding vacuum ports to the throttle body is a easy and simple job (Once you learn the lesson i did, which is why I made the post so others can do the mod without the risk). Once added they are rock solid and will give years of trouble free service. I personally wouldn't trust any ports installed in the compliance fittings, to hard to get a long term reliable seal that I would trust.

Balancing with a computer is great as well and ill eventually make up a cable, that said good old vacuum ports still work great, my bike is running smoother that it ever has :cheers:

Hodakaguy
2018 Ural Gear UP, Kennewick WA.
In Memory Of The Crewman Ride Report: CLICK HERE
My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE
My Unimog U1300L Build: CLICK HERE

RC20
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Posts: 2552
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:59 am
Location: Anchorage AK

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by RC20 » Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:57 pm

Sweet biscuits is that top class install or what!

Ok, what is the Piston the vice sits on out of? Looks like an EMD 710 or some such.

And how many people have (pretty sure Fluke 87 meter?) I just had to put in my Fluke History , every one I got I still have the first one in 82 roughly and the last about 2005.
PB210019.JPG
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Fear No Gravel
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC ala Shaft Drive Nighthawk S (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Current:
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

What I Did (I quit June 2 , 2019)
Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Electro Mechanical Systems

User avatar
Hodakaguy
Comrade
Comrade
Posts: 42
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 7:34 am
Location: Eastern WA State
Contact:

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Hodakaguy » Sat Nov 21, 2020 8:43 pm

RC20 wrote:
Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:57 pm
Sweet biscuits is that top class install or what!

Ok, what is the Piston the vice sits on out of? Looks like an EMD 710 or some such.

And how many people have (pretty sure Fluke 87 meter?) I just had to put in my Fluke History , every one I got I still have the first one in 82 roughly and the last about 2005.

PB210019.JPG

Thanks Mate. The Piston is out of a 1955 Ingersol Rand KVS-26 Integral Engine/Compressor. The engine is a single turbo 6 cylinder unit with two integral double acting compressors. The engine makes 1000hp at 330rpm. Bare piston weights 400lbs, valves have a 1" stem. I was the lead mechanic on these engines for years and we do all our own maint....rebuild heads with 3 angle valve grinds, bearings you name it. Fun stuff.

Yep that's a Fluke 87....love flukes! I have a couple different ones myself :cheers:

Here's another shot of the piston, wrist pin and a valve (2 valve heads) next to my old Buell S1.

Image


And a few shots of the engine it came out of.

Image

Image

Image

Image


Hodakaguy
2018 Ural Gear UP, Kennewick WA.
In Memory Of The Crewman Ride Report: CLICK HERE
My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE
My Unimog U1300L Build: CLICK HERE

stagewex
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Posts: 7816
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:45 pm
Location: New Rochelle, New York

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by stagewex » Sun Nov 22, 2020 12:03 am

Wow, some piston. Very cool.
Stagewex

Current Herd all running amok:
2019 Honda CRF450L (Elec Start)
2008 Vespa 150S (Elec & Kick Start)
2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
2006 Honda "Big Ruckus" PS250 (Elec Start)
1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only) *NOT running amok, out for Bottom & Top-End Rebuild.
1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)

List what you "have", keep the others in your precious memory bank.

User avatar
Desantnik-VDV
Order of Lenin
Order of Lenin
Posts: 1238
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 5:21 pm
Location: Los Angeles

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Desantnik-VDV » Sun Nov 22, 2020 8:42 pm

Prolly takes a few people to do valve adjustment.
Alex
2007 GearUp - BMD (Боевая Машина Десанта)

The rest is just history.

RC20
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Posts: 2552
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:59 am
Location: Anchorage AK

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by RC20 » Mon Nov 23, 2020 10:15 pm

The pictures are all great. I quit work a couple years back so am just piddling with stuff now.

I worked on EMD710 (from memory, for sure the EMD series) 2500 hp I think, 900 rpm or there about. Only got to do it for a short time on an oil field service boat we were working on contract service. One big Waukeshau up top in a 6 story building (good quake and down thorough the floors it goes, nuts)

Most of my iron was Detroit various 71 series with some 53 and 89 (?) and 149 along with Cat 3412/3406. Last 25 years never got to tear into them, sigh. Standby stuff does not wear out the main stuff (seals and such yes)
PB230028.JPG
Nice thing about the big iron was it didn't have fiddly little bits, always fun for rigging to work on, 70% of the work was rigging, not what I envisioned when I started in.

MY best one was to yard out tow 15 foot tube coolers out of the Oil Field Service Boat. Had to work them up to the front of the engine room, 90 deg turn, into a stairway (Navy for ladder>) and up 20 feet and out onto deck finally. They said it could not be done but yes you could with the right pick points!

The boat had been in Singapore for 15 years, those guys over there could fix anything, WITH PAINT. Either they went to school on it or were naturals. Never saw someone paint a gasket and have ti work but they did. We had all too much fun with, oh $#!+ its leaking and oh $#!+ there is no gasket here at all.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by RC20 on Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:58 am, edited 2 times in total.
Fear No Gravel
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC ala Shaft Drive Nighthawk S (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Current:
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

What I Did (I quit June 2 , 2019)
Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Electro Mechanical Systems

User avatar
Burt1713
Comrade General
Comrade General
Posts: 958
Joined: Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:46 pm
Location: Olney Illinois

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by Burt1713 » Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:24 am

RC20 wrote:
Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:57 pm

And how many people have (pretty sure Fluke 87 meter?) I just had to put in my Fluke History , every one I got I still have the first one in 82 roughly and the last about 2005.
Flukes are great DMM’s, I have probably calibrated 1000’s of them during my 26 years as a calibration technician.
2017 cT "Woody Moose"
2002 Ural solo bobber/chopper (work in progress) “Symphony of Destruction”
1997 Sportster "Scarlet Speedster"
1984 Honda Interceptor "Cornfield Express" (Gone)

RC20
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2020
Posts: 2552
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:59 am
Location: Anchorage AK

Re: "How To" (And how NOT to) add vacuum ports to your throttle bodies.

Post by RC20 » Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:47 am

Back about 82 I was just getting into the tech world (UPS, Generators, Switch gear and various HVAC systems).

We had two UPS with battery strings and the only instruments that had the x.xx volt accuracy was the Computer Room tech with a Push button Fluke (forget the model). I fell in love with it, I had a cheap analog but the Fluke was a wonder.

Fluke came out with the 70 series, I got the 77 (had to dig deep for my salary at the time) then 77 II with more features and the to die for was the 179. It had Capacitor check (in the ranges I ran into, 87 was pretty low per a board cap as I recall). Frequency (engine pulse pickup for the Governors and shutdowns) as well as the rest. Still think its the finest overall rough service field instrument (that 87 is a great bench unit tough as I recall the Farads were not big enough for the type we encountered and I did not do a lot of bench work).

I got the 867B on Sale (not often for Fluke and I never blamed them !)

Of course being a field grunt I abused them and a number of trips back to Fluke for repair (my MO was amps run through it and blowing the fuse and then jumping the blown fuse to get my reading and then putting volts through the wrong connection - my fault completely). Cost to repair was reasonable though I got a different SN back one time (looked brand new, forget if it came in new box)

Then I burned one up (amps MO) , got if repaired and 6 months latter I was trouble shooting a rolling steel door at the 15 ft level and dropped it. Wahhh.

In it went with an honest explanation of what I had done and nothing could be expected to survive that.

they fixed it under warranty. That meant a lot to me. Money was always an issue. I wrote them back and thanked them. Well above and beyond.

I need to find a home for the 867Bkm fully works, only issue is the original Nicad battery died. By the time I got it replaced it was a different charger and does not work with the chemistry. I can plug it into 120 on the charger and ran it that way, a bit awkward but mostly I was near 120.

Work bought the replacement battery and I failed to catch it was different. I have one or both packs, have to look.
.
Fear No Gravel
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC ala Shaft Drive Nighthawk S (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Current:
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

What I Did (I quit June 2 , 2019)
Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Electro Mechanical Systems

Post Reply