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Tire and Wheel Q's

Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 4:50 pm
by harryball
OK, so while I'm changing my tires I've been searching threads gathering ideas, intelligence etc...
Facts I think I know and Questions:

Spoke torque - 35 to 52 inch/lbs. but about 42 in/lbs is preferred
Wheel run out - < .10" is excellent
< .15" preferred

Skipping down to the 8th row of images here... http://www.myural.com/wheellacing.htm is a good guide for truing the wheel.
If I understand everything I've read, if a wheel is not true the *best* solution is to loosen all of the spokes and then follow this procedure.
Otherwise, it's a game of tightening and loosening spokes round and round and could take hours and cause excessive hair loss.

Wheel splines should be square, not pointy right? I suspect the spare on the 2010 Patrol is a spare for that reason.

Before reassembly, apply rust protection to the inside of the wheel UNDER the band such as a good grease or T9 to prevent spoke nuts from rusting.

Do NOT lube the wheel with anything but something specifically for tire putting on/off. Tires can "spin" on the rim and cut valve stems otherwise.

Q's
Is there a reason NOT to run with two rim bands? I have all new bands along with the bands already in the wheel some of which have very minor protrusions and pin holes from the rim nuts. Is simply adding the new band over the old one a problem?

For grease (sealed bearings don't need it) I should lube the axle and drive splines etc... Do I use spline grease on the wheel splines or just good axle grease?

I'm sure I'll think of more but that should get me started.

Re: Tire and Wheel Q's

Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 6:30 pm
by Albuquralque
If the wheel is not true, then yes the best solution is to loosen all spokes and go through Billy G's proceedure. Take your time and be patient and you will do ok.

No there is not a reason to prevent from running with two rim bands. I actually run with a rim band and then some duct tape.

I use standard axle grease on the axle and wheel splines.