Has anyone had any experience with the factory undercoating? Any opinions?
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:55 pm
OK, I'll bite what is "factory undercoating" ?
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:51 pm
rivers wrote:OK, I'll bite what is "factory undercoating" ?
Its a 600 dollar factory option to have the bottom of the tub and inside fenders covered in a durable paint/sealer. I guess for added corrosion protection like the stuff used in pickup truck beds.
I have no experience with it on a Ural but plenty with a Jeep and pickup truck.
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:43 pm
Do it yourself.
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:09 am
by Brian Crean
One Qt. can of solvent $5.99
One pad of scotchbrite $ .99
Two rolls of masking tape 1" & 2" $6.00
3 spray cans of Truck Bed Liner $18
Google up "How to" or follow instructions
on can. $31.00 Vs $600
Proper preparation is 80% of the job. Take it slow, and do it right.
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 1:33 pm
Didn't know it was even avail from the factory. Something not really needed here in WA so the dealer never mentioned it. Even if I lived in the rust(salt) belt I would pass at $600. Lot cheaper to do it yourself. Not fan anyway. In the 60's in MI having a new car Ziebart coated was common/expensive and help for awhile but eventually the coating cracks, wears, etc and at those points road salt water gets trapped under the coating and festers there to get reactivated every time it rains. Seen worse rust on undercoated cars than non coated. Doubt Ziebart is still in business.
I guess IMZ finally gave up powder coating sheet metal on the 016's. Which is good since they've had a problem getting dry paint to stick properly. Hope they do better with wet paint. In any case if the paint wet or dry isn't adhered well to the metal covering it up with yet another coating on top isn't going to make the orig paint stick any better. Just more mess to clean up when the orig paint bubbles and sloughs off. I would think with you being in CA sheet metal rust would be a non-issue? Even in WA where it's wet 10 months a year only rusted sheet metal is in the tub and very minimal where it grows outward from the drain holes in the tub. Found that removing(throwing away) the goofy floor mat thats just trapping moisture forever helps a lot. I'd rather have scuffed up floor paint from use than rust. Just my thoughts.
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:51 pm
I would think with you being in CA sheet metal rust would be a non-issue?
Might depend on where in CA you live, and where you drive.
Pismo Beach, my backyard. Only drive-on beach in CA.
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:09 pm
I've had Ural tubs completely disintegrate from rust. The worst areas are where the different body pieces are pressed and welded together.
I think you're better off just keeping the thing as clean as you can, though, and using w@*- or grease-based products as a seal. Hard undercoating will chip away and then the chipped areas will trap moisture and promote rust. And the areas you would typically undercoat aren't the parts that get rusty anyway, not at first.
I've been keeping all fasteners and body welds covered with a thick clear military surplus grease, and anywhere I notice rust start to form I hit it with the stuff. So far, so good.
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:28 am
I just recently did it myself. Take the tub off, clean it, can't say w@$# it, etch it, put on seam sealer, then use bed liner on both the inside and bottom of the tub. I used spray on duroliner. Worked great.
Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 6:09 pm
Thanks everyone. I figure I'll do it myself when the time comes.