Ural Engine Overheating

[farcall]

Hello from Australia.

My hubby and I have recently purchased a brand new Ural Gear Up and although we love the bike, ever since we’ve had it we have had issues with the engine light coming on when we are in some start/stop traffic. After our 500km service yesterday our dealer said that yes the bike is overheating but they don’t know why. When we do long runs where we hardly stop there are no issues, however it is impractical to think we will never do or need to do any riding in traffic. Surely the bike can handle some time sitting in this sort of traffic. We are in winter here at the moment so the days are not even hot. To be told they don’t know why it’s doing it and offering no solution is also annoying considering how much we have paid for this bike. Any ideas?

Can you let me know what state you're in?

[RKGeorge]

The latest re-map for the higher-compression engines (2022 USA, 2021 Europe… probably 2022 Australia?) was released to dealers May 5th.

What does re-map mean, and why wasn't I notified of this upgrade?

[aduthie]

It’s not considered urgent. Dealers are supposed to install it when an early 2022 model comes in for regular service. So far as I know all it actually does is retard the ignition timing to further prevent detonation. In practice, this should also reduce operating temperatures a little.

Re-map: Fuel injection runs in part by using a lookup table — a map — of how much fuel to inject at X throttle opening and Y engine speed. A remap changes the values in the table. It’s like resetting a carburetor.

[heindlengineeringural]

Something else to consider is to be sure that the petrol has the proper Octane rating for the Ural.

[JackReno]

The 2022 model year engines have higher compression ratios to meet emissions standards and therefore run hotter than earlier models. This was noted by Ural when these engines were introduced with a warning that a cooling down period was recommended after running at high speeds for more than 20 minutes or so. That said, using fully synthetic engine oil and 93 octane will help but not eliminate the issue.

A more fundamental engineering solution might be a water injection kit to reduce pre-ignition.

Bingo:

Ural even admitted the new 2022 would run hotter at idle with the new pistons, and don't forget the 4 catalytic converters it has as well.

Thats why I jumped on a new 2021 before they were gone.

[AndyH]

Hello from Australia..

Was it fixed?
I would have suggested calling Mat and Clare and not relying solely on the Dealer as most of them are just enthusiasts like us. Or try Lee Edwards, because if he doesn't know then he will know someone who will.

[Hport]

What ended up being the cause / fix for loss of power/ overheating?
Asking as I have a 2019 GU with same issue when going over 55-60MPH on the highway.
Thanks J

[Bar None]

What ended up being the cause / fix for loss of power/ overheating?
Asking as I have a 2019 GU with same issue when going over 55-60MPH on the highway.
Thanks J

I have a 2021 cT and I don't think it overheats so I am curious about your 2019 overheating. How are you determining that it is overheating? Loss of power?

[Hport]

We have a mechanical CHT gauge, the left cylinder runs about 30-50F hotter than right side after highway riding for 30 minutes or more at 55-60mph. Loss of power and throttle response is the end result once the left side gets to about 450F. back off throttle for a minute and the engine response comes back as temperature drops slightly.
We balanced the TB's, installed iridium plugs and added VP unleaded octane booster ( 1 ounce/gallon) and the left cylinder still gets hotter that right side, but we do not have the loss of power as we did before.
We also noticed that with higher ambient temperatures the problems seems less, sounding more like a air fuel problem, wasn't the 2019 Gen2 EFI supposed to smooth issues like this out?
The factory EFI diagnostic tool arrived this morning, that is another story in the making, can get it to link to the ECU using the phone app, but the app does not switch to the various screens /features within the app. we have to shut off the phone and restart so the app will get back to the home screen and we can select another feature.
Work in progress.....

[phughes]

We have a mechanical CHT gauge, the left cylinder runs about 30-50F hotter than right side after highway riding for 30 minutes or more at 55-60mph. Loss of power and throttle response is the end result once the left side gets to about 450F. back off throttle for a minute and the engine response comes back as temperature drops slightly.
We balanced the TB's, installed iridium plugs and added VP unleaded octane booster ( 1 ounce/gallon) and the left cylinder still gets hotter that right side, but we do not have the loss of power as we did before.
We also noticed that with higher ambient temperatures the problems seems less, sounding more like a air fuel problem, wasn't the 2019 Gen2 EFI supposed to smooth issues like this out?
The factory EFI diagnostic tool arrived this morning, that is another story in the making, can get it to link to the ECU using the phone app, but the app does not switch to the various screens /features within the app. we have to shut off the phone and restart so the app will get back to the home screen and we can select another feature.
Work in progress.....

What map in loaded in the throttle body ECUs? Do you have the leg wind guards installed? They actually help cooling a bit, or so they say. Any air leaks on the left side, which could cause a lean condition?

[S 854]

We have a mechanical CHT gauge, the left cylinder runs about 30-50F hotter than right side after highway riding for 30 minutes or more at 55-60mph.

The left cylinder is always gonna run hotter than the right…

The hack creates a “wind-tunnel” cooling effect for the right cylinder…

[windmill]

The factory EFI diagnostic tool arrived this morning, that is another story in the making, can get it to link to the ECU using the phone app, but the app does not switch to the various screens /features within the app. we have to shut off the phone and restart so the app will get back to the home screen and we can select another feature.
Work in progress.....

It works perfectly with my old phone but has a few issues with my new one. FWIW, I find it works perfectly when using a laptop and its format is easier to use.

[Hport]

Barry,
Just found a older laptop with Windows and loaded the software. Will see how that goes this weekend. I really want to see what the feedback is from both O2 sensors and injectors. The iPhone 12 doesn’t like the Ural app. Via BT dongle. Someone asked about which map, version 040 with a calibration date of 18022602
John

[Hport]

Phil,
No guards, no leaks found either. Had that problem with our 18. ecu version 040. With calibration date of 18022602.
Once I get live data, the hope is there will be a statistical difference between left and right to start an informed diagnosis. Swapping O2 sensors and injectors is part of the plan to see if the problem goes to opposite side. I did verify temperatures with a known IR gun with emissivity adjustments.
John

[phughes]

Phil,
No guards, no leaks found either. Had that problem with our 18. ecu version 040. With calibration date of 18022602.
Once I get live data, the hope is there will be a statistical difference between left and right to start an informed diagnosis. Swapping O2 sensors and injectors is part of the plan to see if the problem goes to opposite side. I did verify temperatures with a known IR gun with emissivity adjustments.
John

In regards to the map, I was thinking you had a Gen 1 EFI mistakenly. Is your injector on the hot side dirty, maybe causing it ti run lean?