M-Unit Upgrade?

The "Pimp my Ride" section for Soviet bloc bikes. Everybody seems to have their own custom add-ons, modifications & accessories. Share your tips and post pictures of them here.
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This is the place for topics concerining modifying and accessorizing your Ural or Denpr.
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Red Dwarf
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by Red Dwarf » Mon Oct 30, 2017 3:55 pm

stagewex wrote:I'm waiting for someone to tell me what you are taking about. I'm an analog guy.
I suspect the analog equivalent of an m-unit is a concealed toggle switch for the ignition.
Even better if you wire the horn to the original ignition switch. [Leave the key in] :lol:
2012 Retro

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Claus
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by Claus » Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:36 am

I installed the new type M-unit (from April 2018 on) twice within the last 3 month. Both failed in the first rain and had to be replaced. I was told from the manufacturer that this device and all electric lines have to be installed completely waterproof. What the hell do that guys smoke? We´re talking about motorcycles and in most of cases custom bikes, where everything is reduced to the max and the only place to hide the device is under the gas tank. How can I install indicator lights or tail lights completely waterproof? Anyway, after a few emails they replaced both devices and both of them came with an addiditional leaflet about the new (added) features and the hint to install waterproof. I reckon, this new device is not finished and they are still trying to improve it while in market already. It´s the first time I experience this habit with this company and I don´t like it.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, 95 Suzuki DR 650 RSE, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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BlueRockCrawler
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by BlueRockCrawler » Sun Jul 01, 2018 1:02 am

I guess they're use to the type of custom motorcycle that sits in a garage?? You would've assumed that they would have designed the sensitive electronics to be in the environment they market it for. Can you pot it in epoxy and silicone?
2015 Ural Patrol
1993 Suzuki DR 650
2018 Suzuki DR 650
previous Honda's were
1996 750 Magna
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VWK75S
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by VWK75S » Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:36 am

BlueRockCrawler wrote:I guess they're use to the type of custom motorcycle that sits in a garage?? You would've assumed that they would have designed the sensitive electronics to be in the environment they market it for. Can you pot it in epoxy and silicone?
You would think they'd have the circuit board conformal coated.
John
The Ural's made Maine a much bigger state.

2009 GearUp 145,000kms
2007 Retro 25,000kms
1991 VWK75S 110,000miles

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LRP
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by LRP » Sun Jul 01, 2018 12:35 pm

I am feeling weak and dizzy reading this.
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Traded '08 Patrol
2008 Royal Enfield cast iron military
1983 Honda Passport

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sixbennetts
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by sixbennetts » Sun Jul 01, 2018 1:59 pm

I've got a trailer taillights conversion box and trailer brake controller mounted inside the underseat compartment of our Retro, along with the stock electronic ignition that was mounted in there when we got it. Keeps stuff nice and dry as long as you use a glob of caulk where the wires go in and out. I even masked and sprayed the inside of the door with spray on tool handle dip. Makes it a b*tch to get the door back on, but seals it up nice and tight.

Maybe mount it in there?
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Claus
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by Claus » Tue Jul 10, 2018 3:23 am

LRP wrote:I am feeling weak and dizzy reading this.
It depends on what model you´ve got. If it is the "old" type V.2 (the black thing with little screws to connect the lines) your´re absolutely safe. These things are bullet proof and well tested about a decade. The new type has got more features but in my opinion should be improved by the manufacturer, regarding system errors or fails after becoming wet. If you´ve got the newish type, take care that it is not exposed to splash water.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, 95 Suzuki DR 650 RSE, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by JestUs » Wed Jul 18, 2018 3:30 am

Claus,

I noted your comment from last year that you used a condenser on a BMW R100S with the old starter that drew more amperage than it was supposed to...

Thanks for answering a 38 year old question for me. A little history...

Back in 1980 I had the first V50 Moto Guzzi to hit the Pacific Northwest. I bought it while attempting to recover from BMW loss. Neat bike but gutless and whetted my appetite to own another Beemer (months before had traded my '76 R90/6 locomotive for a BMW 2002 Coupe, also gutless in comparison to the R90).

I found a basket case, 1970 R75/5 short frame. It had a 830cc kit and lots of problems; broken sidestand, worn centerstand mounts (and no stand), bad paint, tires, wheel bearings, "ground" valve covers, only one bolt holding the transmission to the motor and a worn kickstart idler pin about to drop into the tranny. But what heart it had and what a deal.

I massaged it back to a new life. The former owner of Greenlake BMW rebushed the idler pin. Coast Guard, tin-bender mates custom painted the bits in a black with blue pearl clear coat and built a solo seat from the original pan.. Center stand mounts were rebuilt and a Brown's side stand replaced the 2x4 under the jug I used initially. Heavy duty springs in the forks, oil and gas shocks, deep sump, black chrome exhaust, electronic ignition and Mikuni carbs replaced the silver label Bings. Rear sets from San Jose BMW, Euro bars, black Napoleons, and new Conti's.

And here we come back to your R100 experience. The /5 battery had a very short life span. It always needed a charge. I wanted to lighten the bike some more and I wanted more "see through". So the monstrous starter came out and the air box with it. "Uni's" were used for filters on the Mikuni's and that renewed kickstarter worked like a charm. No more dead battery.

Now, 38 years later, the suspected culprit has been verified. I never knew why the stock starter was such a challenge for the battery. Now I do.

Thank you!

-Jesse
New stablemate! Old (2002) Scorpa SY250 w/Long Ride option. It has seen some abuse but it all works and starts on the 2nd kick! "Yoga on a motorcycle" (J.R.)
2015 Ural cT. She's no longer a virgin.
2005 Moto Guzzi Breva 750
2006 (test bed :lol: ) Royal Enfield DIY mechanics course.
Prior: 3 BMW, 2 MG, 3 Yam, 1 Korean scooter and a Bultaco Frontera.

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Claus
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Re: M-Unit Upgrade?

Post by Claus » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:22 am

Jesse,thanks for your reply.
the first starters for /5 models and some models like R90/6 and some R90 S up to 1976 had 8 teeth instead of 9 teeth on the starter sprocket. And the teeth on the flywheel were different too. The 8 teeth starters were much harder to start than the more modern 9 teeth. if someone had a flywheel for 8 teeth and a defective starter was replaced by a 9 teeth one, hard starting and short circuit the battery with every attempt to start was getting a real problem. I have quite a few customers with this problem, when they come to my shop the first time, after having been in other shops before. And there are quite a few online stores, selling 9 teeth starters as "fitting for all models from 1969 to 1995". As a normal owner and user without deeper knowledge you just buy your problems with the new starter...

But you named the problem: Batteries are dying soon from too much amperage drawn from while starting. Either there is a unserviced starter that simply draws too much or it´s the problem with the wrong sprocket/flywheel combination.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, 95 Suzuki DR 650 RSE, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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