Pipe- Hack rear bumper

The "Pimp my Ride" section for Soviet bloc bikes. Everybody seems to have their own custom add-ons, modifications & accessories. Share your tips and post pictures of them here.
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DakOOk
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Pipe- Hack rear bumper

Post by DakOOk » Thu Jan 17, 2008 1:36 pm

Made a rear bumper for the Hack out of 1" and 1.5 " pipe.

Made bends in 1 inch pipe and welded 1 inch into 1.5 inch. Prior I had welded muffler clamps on to pipe for frame attachment with bolt and clamp
Image

After 2 coat of black rustoleum of the bike.
Image

Rear view
Image

Side view
Image

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Dak :o :o k
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George Butz
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Post by George Butz » Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:48 pm

Looks more stout than those "towel bars" I've seen. Well done. ':thumbsup:'
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millers1
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Post by millers1 » Fri Jan 18, 2008 2:04 pm

Nice job!

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S 854
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Post by S 854 » Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:18 pm

I like the "floating" look... kinda matches the front bumper.
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mr. cob
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Post by mr. cob » Sat Jan 19, 2008 2:06 am

Howdy Dak,

Cool, I like it. :D
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cubituscubitus
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Post by cubituscubitus » Sat Jan 19, 2008 6:46 am

Cool, nice job ! Kudos to you ! :thumbsup:
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a1930ford
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bar

Post by a1930ford » Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:49 pm

:lurker:
Last edited by a1930ford on Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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DakOOk
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Post by DakOOk » Sat Jan 19, 2008 3:24 pm

Yes I agree this does little for safety. I would say 90% look and 10% function. Function being more like if I back into some thing. But I did want to transfer any force of a light hit in to the hack frame. Strenght will be limited by my crappy welding :lol: , but I wouldn't hesistate to wack my bumper with a sledge hammer with all my might,course with my luck it would be a glancing blow and cave in the rear of the hack any way.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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millers1
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Post by millers1 » Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:27 pm

It might give more protection than you think. If it truely is weaker than the frame, it'll bend and absorb impact, long before transfering it to the expensive stuff (frame, tub).

I found out the hard way, back when I used to race on dirt oval track, back in the 80's.... after bending a few front bumpers (some times you gotta "tap" your opponent in a turn to 'ease' them out of the way), we reengineered it by using a Chevy aluminum front bumper, mounted to a piece of 4" Schedule 80 pipe, welded to a very sold set of chanel iron brackets, then welded to the front frame horns. I got in a pretty decent wreck. The front frame and roll cage got twisted and bent, the bumper sustained only cosmetic damage on the aluminum!

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Post by DakOOk » Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:55 pm

millers1 wrote:It might give more protection than you think. If it truely is weaker than the frame, it'll bend and absorb impact, long before transfering it to the expensive stuff (frame, tub).

I found out the hard way, back when I used to race on dirt oval track, back in the 80's.... after bending a few front bumpers (some times you gotta "tap" your opponent in a turn to 'ease' them out of the way), we reengineered it by using a Chevy aluminum front bumper, mounted to a piece of 4" Schedule 80 pipe, welded to a very sold set of chanel iron brackets, then welded to the front frame horns. I got in a pretty decent wreck. The front frame and roll cage got twisted and bent, the bumper sustained only cosmetic damage on the aluminum!
Hmmmm a 4" sch. 80 bumper sounds like a plan. I did actually think about using sch 80 or 160 pipe but a quick glance at the price in Mcmaster-Carr nixxed that idea, so I went with ole schedule 40. I think the weakest point of my bumper is at the 45 deg bend of the 1 inch pipe.
a wack from behind its going to bend there first in to the side car.
But back to your dirt tracking... I guess you could say you were laying some pipe, when you did the bump and run :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by catfish » Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:10 pm

You gotta go scrap yard scrounging for small quantities of metal. They usually charge by the pound for scrap metal and short lengths of anything are easy to find.I've gotten brass bar stock for drift punches stainless steel for mounts and such and square tube steel for projects from the local scrap yards and never left more than a $10.00 bill.Heck i got 15 feet of what looked like brand new 4 inch galvanized pipe for a basketball hoop pole for a dollar a foot and they cut it to my specs.Also I agree that it is far better to have the bumper be the item of lesser strength so it buckles first.

CATFISH

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Post by DakOOk » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:25 pm

catfish wrote:You gotta go scrap yard scrounging for small quantities of metal. They usually charge by the pound for scrap metal and short lengths of anything are easy to find.I've gotten brass bar stock for drift punches stainless steel for mounts and such and square tube steel for projects from the local scrap yards and never left more than a $10.00 bill.Heck i got 15 feet of what looked like brand new 4 inch galvanized pipe for a basketball hoop pole for a dollar a foot and they cut it to my specs.Also I agree that it is far better to have the bumper be the item of lesser strength so it buckles first.

CATFISH

Good words of wisdom :) Since I've got this new MIG welder and have been going ape $hit with it I got to find a place like this

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by Possum » Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:38 pm

What ol catfish said! I have a steel supply place that will sell me the short ends of steel that have been cut off full length pieces for scrap price, usually about 30 cents a pound. They call it "drop" or "scrap". I call it "great" or "cheeeap".

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