VW steering damper question

[cookiemech]

But how about this? I had a low-speed headshake off and on since new on my 2020 GU. Head bearings were adjusted correctly. Tire pressures correct per manual (36 R, 32 F/SC). Not a big deal, only happened at low speeds.

But after about 16K miles, I started replacing OEM mild steel spokes (that were all seized in their nipples) with Buchanan SS spokes and nipples, and doing so only as the tires wore out. The original tire on the sidecar was a Duro 308, and I had moved that to the pusher position so it would wear out (might never have in the SC position). I have been running Heidenau K28s on all the other positions since the Duros wore out. I do not like the Duros one bit.

Once ALL tires were switched to Heidenaus, the headshake disappeared! The ride and handling are wonderful now. I've read that it didn't matter if you mixed and matched tires. Not true for me.

I'd never have mismatched tires on an automobile.

[phughes]

Interesting.

[jaybird]

But how about this? I had a low-speed headshake off and on since new on my 2020 GU. Head bearings were adjusted correctly. Tire pressures correct per manual (36 R, 32 F/SC). Not a big deal, only happened at low speeds.

But after about 16K miles, I started replacing OEM mild steel spokes (that were all seized in their nipples) with Buchanan SS spokes and nipples, and doing so only as the tires wore out. The original tire on the sidecar was a Duro 308, and I had moved that to the pusher position so it would wear out (might never have in the SC position). I have been running Heidenau K28s on all the other positions since the Duros wore out. I do not like the Duros one bit.

Once ALL tires were switched to Heidenaus, the headshake disappeared! The ride and handling are wonderful now. I've read that it didn't matter if you mixed and matched tires. Not true for me.

I'd never have mismatched tires on an automobile.

Many motorcycles come new from the factory with different tires front and rear, different sizes too. On my GearUp I have three different, four if you count the spare. My Retro has Block K's on the front and sidecar and something with a little more traction on the drive. I've never had a problem, and my rigs all have the old friction dampers. It sounds to me like you had a bad tire or two.

Happy trails,
Jaybird

[wbabbott]

Snakeoil, all good recommendations. I bought my 2010 Patrol used with only 2,000 miles on the clock. I have previously gaged the lean out and toe in on my 2010 Patrol which are well within spec. I checked the tightness of the steering head bearings jacking up the front and checking for looseness going as far as loosening the steer bezel and putting the Ural wrench on the steer nut (not as easy as Sergei makes it look). I also had my handlebars raised too high and have since lowered them. Tires are properly inflated and exhibit even wear. However, the tires are old. All of the tires are the original OEM Russian (I assume) tires that came on the Patrol. They still appear to be in good shape with no ozone age damage, though being Russian tires, I don't feel assured of the quality. The shake is strictly at low end 1st gear, 5-10mph, i.e. just getting started off the block after that, no problem.
I'm hoping the vw damper will do the job.

[Snakeoil]

Steering head bearings are more important than people may think when it comes to headshake. Just went thru this with a friend and his '46 FL Harley. I sold the sidecar to him and he said that it wobbled so bad that it was downright terrifying. He replaced the mechanic steering damper parts with new, rechecked the alignment over and over and no success. Finally, he good about a quarter turn on the steering head bearing adjustment and the bike settled right down.

Your problem is minor so the damper may be all you need. It could be those old tires are causing the wobble. If they are rock hard, which that was my experience with my ancient Uralshinas, they probably have no dampen ability left in them and are more like shopping cart wheels. If they have runout, and I expect they do, since they don't scrub due to hardness, the bike will just follow their track. As you get up to speed, the tire expands a bit and gets rounder. Or it could be that the added speed puts just enough force in place for the tire to dampen that squirrelly track it has. Only you can figure this out since you have the bike in front of you.

My '47 Knucklehead will get strange depending on the road surface. I'm running Firestone sawtooth replicas by Coker. I'm sure they contribute. But it also may be time for me to check steering head bearings now that I've got about 2K miles since the rebuild. Need to follow my own advice.

[Claus]

What Rob says.
It´s very similar to what I experience on BMW airheads, especially the Paralever type. If the steering head bearing is a tad too loose, you get a wobble (shimmy), if you let go the handle bar or just hold it very gently. If the steering head bearing is a tad too tight, the motorcycle starts to sway at speeds above 100 or 120 kph. Set to the right torque (without play and just a bit), all is fine. I can let go my handle bar at 120 kph and let the bike coast until it would tilt without any issues.

[livelarg]

Is there a VW steering damper thread that has all the information on how to do it? I would like to put on a damper instead of the friction damper on my 06’

Thanks
Kent

[Tomcatfixer]

Is there a VW steering damper thread that has all the information on how to do it? I would like to put on a damper instead of the friction damper on my 06’

Thanks
Kent

Snakeoil has a good thread on the topic.

[livelarg]

Thank you, gonna read that thread

Kent

[wbabbott]

Just a late FYI, I got the VW damper installed, bedlined the tub, and did quite a bit of paint repair with clearcoat to areas where the original clear had come off. After remounting the tub, I checked the sidecar wheel and found a lot of side to side play. Took the wheel off and found that previous owner must have forgot to install the outside washer before installing the dust cover and castellated nut. The nut became loose as the cotter pin was well outside the nut. While in there I replaced the distance wear ring, added copious amounts of grease to gear and reassembled with new washer. Took it out for a test drive. No more wobble, steering smooth as glass.