What did you do to your Ural today?

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Claus
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Claus » Thu Nov 25, 2021 12:18 pm

I decided to give my Ural another chance. After 7 years of rotting in a corner of the shop I started repairing it.
After making new valve guides and buying valves I completed the cylinder heads and mounted them onto the barrels that I had bored to 79mm some years ago and mounted with my last set of 79mm forged pistons.

When grabbed for the rockers, I saw this:
IMG_1300.JPG
caused by low situated valve keyway. I fixed this by grinding off the damaged area.
IMG_1301.JPG
Sorry no pictures of completing the engine, I was too busy...

My K68 carbs are completely worn and not worth of repairing. So I dumped them and bought a set of Dellorto PHBH 28 and a pair of compliance fittings from a Mikuni supplier. To be able to keep the original throttle cables, I drilled out the brass elbow of the K68´s top cover, cut a 8 mm thread onto the lower end, tapped a M8 thread into the Dellorto top cover and installed the elbow into the new cover. Works great, cable slack 2,5mm.
The engine fired up after the 4th kick and runs very sweet!
IMG_1315.JPG
Then I recalled that I gave my front wheel and brake plate to my missis, when her drum was oval and conical. When her Ural rig was sold the parts left us and I had the bad parts in my rig. So I cut the spokes and turned the brake drum even in my lathe
IMG_1307.JPG
After measuring the new inner diameter, I adjusted the brake shoes on the brake plate and turned the shoes to specs
IMG_1309.JPG
Smooth as a baby´s bottom...

After cleaning the rim and drum, equipping the rim with new wheel bearings, the wheel is waiting to be laced.
IMG_1311.JPG
Meanwhile my missis makes a new Harley seat for me. I sold the old one years ago to someone who was in need.
IMG_1310.JPG

I have purchased new tyres and tubes (Heidenau K37 for pusher and front, K28 for side car) and a new battery. And new heating grips are mounted and are waiting to be connected.
Next Wednesday I´ll try to get the rig through the road worthyness test.
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Last edited by Claus on Fri Nov 26, 2021 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Peter Pan » Thu Nov 25, 2021 12:54 pm

Martina and Claus,
congratulation for the time you spent finally for your own benefit and not only for the client's.
Flory and I do the same since C19 confinations started. You see the change in the farm of tiny steps each day a bit more adding up their results. Today I will start on the Ural too: 50.000km start to show their marks.
Sophie Travelair = Patrol 2013
8 weeks 12.000km Oregon-Alaska-Oregon
With a DIY foam air filter the rig runs well even in tropical rain = :moto:
Final drives: 1. at 5000km, 2. at 34.000km(+friction plates) 3. at 42.386km
transmission: 1. 40.000km. 2. installed
Engine: 1. 43.388km crank replacement: Back on the road since 23.Okt.2019 :party:

The Avatar are 2 rice grains stating life's essence:
"The most important you cannot see!"
=> Attitude makes the difference!

jeffsaline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by jeffsaline » Thu Nov 25, 2021 1:27 pm

Claus,

Good to see your post. It looks like you might be using a carbide insert for turning the drum. When you turned the brake shoes did you also use carbide or maybe change to High Speed Steel? Just a bit curious as I've never turn brake shoes and I'm wondering about finish and tool life.

Thanks,

Jeff
Jeff Saline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Claus » Thu Nov 25, 2021 2:36 pm

Jeff,
the inserts for turning the drum and brake shoes are both carbide but different types. For drum it´s an F-type ( I only use one edge of it) and for the shoes it´s a D-type with a negative-angle holder. With a low cutting speed (70 rpm for the 200 mm diameter) and high feed it´s very smooth and goes very well, as long as you keep the chip thickness low (like 2/10 of a mm). I´m not a friend of high speed steel. Carbide is almost always the better choice unless you need to create your own radius or angle. In this case I grind HSS turning tools to my needs.
And with a sharp carbide there is about no dust occuring during turning the brake shoes. I´m not fond of inhaling asbestos from the old Russian shoes. I do wear a mask, but this particles would float in the air for quite a while...

Sven,
you´re right. Martina and I started to set some new priorities during the corona time. When I was 27 I felt immortal, but meanwhile you see your friends and relatives getting older or pass away. Do I know if I can do things next week or next year or in 10 years? Definitely not. So I have to do them right now, as long as I can afford without cutting our standard of living very much.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Nov 25, 2021 3:22 pm

:lurker:
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

Ruski22
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Ruski22 » Thu Nov 25, 2021 7:03 pm

Played around in the garage today. Not much on traditional turkey dinner. Hooked up some left over Denali D4 running lights with both an on /off switch and keyed to kill power If/when I forget to turn off when exiting the bike. Surprised that the LED running lights on the front of the tub are not keyed to power instead of just an on /off switch. While working on her I also reinstalled my Garmin for possible future touring. So on my new to me 2020 I have her set back up like all my past bikes with pigtails for battery tender, tire compressor, heated gear, two stage Denali lights and Garmin. Ready to do some serious riding when it warms up. 🤣. At some point I'll also have to wire In some Skeen taillights.
History
1980 Suzuki 800
1996 Honda 750
2004 Kawasaki
2000 K 1200 BMW
2013 F 700 BMW
2015 Yamaha Tenere
2018 R Nine T BMW
1994 R 1100RS BMW
2020 750 Ural GU. :boogie:

jeffsaline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by jeffsaline » Thu Nov 25, 2021 10:50 pm

Claus wrote:
Thu Nov 25, 2021 2:36 pm
Jeff,
the inserts for turning the drum and brake shoes are both carbide but different types. For drum it´s an F-type ( I only use one edge of it) and for the shoes it´s a D-type with a negative-angle holder. With a low cutting speed (70 rpm for the 200 mm diameter) and high feed it´s very smooth and goes very well, as long as you keep the chip thickness low (like 2/10 of a mm). I´m not a friend of high speed steel. Carbide is almost always the better choice unless you need to create your own radius or angle. In this case I grind HSS turning tools to my needs.
And with a sharp carbide there is about no dust occuring during turning the brake shoes. I´m not fond of inhaling asbestos from the old Russian shoes. I do wear a mask, but this particles would float in the air for quite a while...
Claus,

Thanks for that detailed answer. I appreciate it. I too usually use carbide for most of my work. But sometimes high speed steel is a better choice, like for turning UHMW.

Best,

Jeff
Jeff Saline
2010 Gear Up
-Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick Two
-Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it. Hub McCann Second Hand Lions
-Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.

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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Claus » Fri Nov 26, 2021 3:53 am

jeffsaline wrote:
Thu Nov 25, 2021 10:50 pm
But sometimes high speed steel is a better choice, like for turning UHMW.
Interesting. I had to google that. What are you doing with UHMW? Is it very different to POM?
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Peter Pan » Fri Nov 26, 2021 8:55 am

UHMW - PE best use on MZ sidecar = front right lower sidecar boat corner. You do not hook any more into the cobble stones and flipp, but are able to slide around the left hand corners...The only difficulty was to explain to your work shop master what was that bright green colour on your otherwise toolbox hammerschlag grey/turquise rig.

Soft, threadable and very slippery- we used it in Büchen, D for bottle guides on pateurisation stations and in CR in radio amplifiers for the sliding guides and connector trap arm of the hand held radios.
Sophie Travelair = Patrol 2013
8 weeks 12.000km Oregon-Alaska-Oregon
With a DIY foam air filter the rig runs well even in tropical rain = :moto:
Final drives: 1. at 5000km, 2. at 34.000km(+friction plates) 3. at 42.386km
transmission: 1. 40.000km. 2. installed
Engine: 1. 43.388km crank replacement: Back on the road since 23.Okt.2019 :party:

The Avatar are 2 rice grains stating life's essence:
"The most important you cannot see!"
=> Attitude makes the difference!

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Claus
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Claus » Fri Nov 26, 2021 9:34 am

IMG_1313.JPG
Today I laced and trued the front wheel . Not in the time I did that 10 years ago, but still no problem in 35 minutes.
IMG_1314.JPG
Well, without having tested it on the road, it seems to work quite well.
And having the shocks at eye level, I phoned up Horst to send me a pair of HCS NP shocks. It´s time to let go of the old original shocks, as they have rusted to solid rods :shock:
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owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Claus » Fri Nov 26, 2021 9:41 am

Peter Pan wrote:
Fri Nov 26, 2021 8:55 am
Soft, threadable and very slippery-
I think I should order a piece ot that stuff to play with...
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

jeffsaline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by jeffsaline » Fri Nov 26, 2021 11:26 am

Claus,

I've used UHMW for a variety of parts but maybe the most useful are special tools for the local Harley technicians. I made a protection ring for wheel hubs when they change bearings and must put the bearing puller legs against the hub. The legs of the puller rest against the UHMW ring and keep it from marking the hub. I also made a special tool for installing the primary inner seal. It must be installed to a certain depth. With the special tool the seal is placed on the UHMW tool and then pressed in place with the palm of the hand. Takes about 5 seconds and is perfect every time. One of the other special tools commercially available for the Harley crowd are step blocks for locking the primary chain when removing or installing parts in the primary area. It is just a block that looks like steps for a mouse to climb. It is about 1 1/4" wide, with steps about 1/4" high and deep. Length might be about 1 1/2" long. I did those on the mill. UHMW cuts so well you can take a 1/4" in a single pass with a sharp tool and still get a very nice finish. Side cutting with the endmill gets the best finish.

I've also used it to make quiet rollers for a sliding door hanger. Cut a groove for the track on the outer diameter and a recess on the inside for a skateboard bearing. A bolt goes through the bearing and roller and it works great, is quiet and lasts almost forever. UHMW is also pretty good for spacers.

It works well in a corrosive environment. You should consider temperatures it will be subject to along with compression forces.

Similar to UHMW is Delrin which is also fun to turn and works about the same. I've made antenna protectors for the local police K9 unit electronic collar controllers. I know I've also made some other parts but don't remember them off hand. I can get Delrin in a couple of colors, UHMW as far as I know only comes in white.

For both materials I use a high speed steel tool and cut at a fairly fast speed. Sometimes using a parting tool and plunging is the fastest way to remove material. Then finish to the correct diameter with a final pass. If the UHMW gets warm/hot it will become a bit gummy. Let it cool and continue the cut.

Just remembered a bike part I made a few years ago for a local flat track racer. Don't know the bike but he needed a chain slider for the swingarm. He had the old worn part and they are not available. This is the part that wraps around the front of the swingarm and the chain contacts it on the top and front of the swingarm. I ordered a 3 foot long piece of flat bar UHMW and made a template of the side contour. Then I machined the contour on the mill again using a HSS end mill of a decent size for the radius I needed in a couple of places. Once I had the contour made I cut it to width again using an end mill. Then for the bend I took it into the kitchen and boiled a large pot of water. When the water was boiling I gently started to bend the slider where it needed to form a "U" around the front of the swingarm. I lowered the bend area into the boiling water and it quickly softened. Once I got the bend I wanted I wrapped it around a piece of roundstock the correct diameter and clamped it in place. Then I again lowered the bend area into the boiling water and let it soften and relax. As soon as the part had cooled it was formed. The owner of the bike drilled his own holes when he mounted the slider. I did see it on the bike once after it had been used for a couple of seasons and it was holding up well and looked good too.

Edit addition: I just remembered two other items I've made with UHMW. On airhead BMWs I've fixed worn clutch levers where they have a hole in the lever for the pivot. Some guys ride them until lever hole is oblong or worse. I've used an endmill to make a round hole and then made a UHMW bushing to fit and then drilled a hole in the correct area. Might be I was able to just make the larger hole in the lever on center with the original pivot point and then make a UHMW bushing to fit in the new hole. I've also made them from brass for this application.

I also fixed a friend's Jeep which had ripped a transfer case mount location from the frame. I had to remove the damaged threaded insert from the frame and make a new one and weld it in place. Then I made a mount from UHMW the correct length to fill the frame to transfer mount space. Was still in place and fine shape when he sold the Jeep.

Best,

Jeff
Last edited by jeffsaline on Fri Nov 26, 2021 12:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jeff Saline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Peter Pan » Fri Nov 26, 2021 12:24 pm

my UHMW was a left over in black. Delrin was way too brittle. The mills i used were the ones with very sharp whedge angle (Keilwinkel/schneidenwinkel) like you get for Aluminium. Compressed air for cooling.

And another use: grab your finger and pull it into the endmill. When working with thin wall thickness back up with putty or at least some wood or whatever. if not it will flipp around. Those prototypes i finnished with back up double taped to the wall. UHMW is washable with most solvents without damaging its finish. Nothing likes to really stick to it, so you get the glue easily off.
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Last edited by Peter Pan on Fri Nov 26, 2021 1:11 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Sophie Travelair = Patrol 2013
8 weeks 12.000km Oregon-Alaska-Oregon
With a DIY foam air filter the rig runs well even in tropical rain = :moto:
Final drives: 1. at 5000km, 2. at 34.000km(+friction plates) 3. at 42.386km
transmission: 1. 40.000km. 2. installed
Engine: 1. 43.388km crank replacement: Back on the road since 23.Okt.2019 :party:

The Avatar are 2 rice grains stating life's essence:
"The most important you cannot see!"
=> Attitude makes the difference!

jeffsaline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by jeffsaline » Fri Nov 26, 2021 12:33 pm

Peter Pan wrote:
Fri Nov 26, 2021 12:24 pm
my UHMW was a left over in black. Delrin was way too brittle. The mills i used were the ones with very sharp whedge angle (Keilwinkel/schneidenwinkel) like you get for Aluminium. Compressed air for cooling.

And another use: grab your finger and pull it into the endmill. When working with thin walthickness Back up with putty or at least some wood or whatever. if not it will flipp around. (those prototypes i finnished with back up double taped. UHMW is washable with most solvents without danaging its finish. Nothing likes to realy stick to it....
g
Peter Pan,

I sure agree both materials have their places where they are best.

I enjoy the challenge of figuring out the order of steps for making stuff and which cuts should be made first. Wrong order and it gets to be done again. Backing up cuts to eliminate deflection and distortion can be a challenge. The double sided tape you mention is a great way to fixture a part.

Best,

Jeff
Jeff Saline
2010 Gear Up
-Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick Two
-Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it. Hub McCann Second Hand Lions
-Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.

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Claus
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Claus » Fri Nov 26, 2021 2:02 pm

Jeff,
very impressing. Some of the parts you made of UHMW are parts that I usually make of POM (polyoxymethylene, is it the same in English?) or of brass or bronze.
I will try UHMW next time. What you wrote is very promising for a couple of tools and parts I have to make quite frequently.

In the best case I can do my work with parts I just have to purchase from a trustworthy supplier. But the older the vehicles get, the harder it gets to find good parts let alone any tools and I have to do it myself. But I guess I don´t have to explain that to you... :lol:

Thank you for your detailed explanation. Absolutely new material for me and very interesting.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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