Soviet Steeds

Agreed (got dropped in the day in day out) - I would like to know and its a multiple fronts aproache that is a good idea in this regard I just have to figure out how to do it without the tool they use. Only downside to not working is no longer access to the laser alignment tool. Long straight items ...

I had the same issue and it was hard telling what did what. Initially it looked like a sensor and that got replaced (I was not up on the code readout and it was done during the serice as they did gert a readout ala I was long ways from home and service needed doing anywya) then it came back and went...

Its no officially my gun cart as well. The one range you can run up and down the side and at 200 meters, its a big help (I walked the 300 meters range one day and about killed myself as I shoot all day when I go) You can take a truck or car down the side lines as well, but big boulders to avoid and ...

There is something else to consider along with weight distribution for tire wear. The pusher/drive tire is the only tire being driven/powered. I'm not talking about breaking traction, spinning, or 'laying rubber', but the constant stress, flexing, distortion of the drive tire. It is 'unique' among ...

Mr Wazzock wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:14 pm

FFS, put gas in it and ride it

I have to be able to pay for it as well. A tire ever 4 thousand is not a good thing.

Spread the load and the wear is more acceptable/reasonable Agreed. The front and hack tires should be taking more of the load to spare the pusher some wear. :wink: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: Unless that is purely tongue in cheek, there is no way I know of to spread load off the pusher to the hack and fron...

9 years to the day of Ural ownership, no filters on my carbs. Never had a fuel/carb issue. One bad batch of gas can change your mind. Been there, done that. At least float bowls allow you to get to it, FI? Its going to go right through. This is what I have in mind, I would prefer a full bowl setup ...

If you would click the table profiling I did on the wear pattern - on the pusher you will see the middle is way down and the outside only down 2/32. To me that says two things and they are directly related. Its wearing too fast and only in the middle. Spread the load and the wear is more acceptable/...

The variation is startling. Front and side car look to go 15,000 US miles and so even as to not even need rotating. Pusher is about half worn out so call it 4000-5000 US miles Weill see if the drop in air pressure improves things but that is going to take some time to manifest itself one way or the ...

Added the current wear Data here as well:

Added Data Table:

Geno89074 wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:14 pm

willkommen, viel spaß mit deinem schönen beiwagen!

Prost alle zusammen!

Ditto! Its better in German

One (device more than tool) I have added is a magnetic tray. Works wonders so you don't loose those fasteners and possibly other ferrous bits if you have taken things really apart. I have added a combination wrench for each metric size. And no I too do not know what the itty bity Torx tool is for.

They're not quite as quick to clamp on as vise grips (though it doesn't take many turns to get 'em tight), but they weigh nothing, so they don't make the fuel hoses swing around and slap paint when I'm careless in removing the tank.

Easier on the rubber as well.

I think you have a starter/cable/connection relay issue not a battery issue. A load test is the very best you can do and if it passes, then the chemistry is doing its thing. Your 10 mph voltage is a bit suspected, it should be full 14.8. Only an issue if idling a lot. 1 - The Westco WCP15L 14aH/220C...