Soviet Steeds

Told you (grin) Mine was on and off from Bham for 200 miles on up from Haines to Anchorage on and off and then one day it went off, stayed off and has not come back. Word is it grabs a flicker but does not stash the code. That is annoying. My check is to see what fuel mileage is doing, if its normal...

I’ve gotten the impression the new ones are much better. I bought my 13 at the end of the model year after they announced the 14’s were going to be fuel injected specifically because I wanted carburetors as I like things simple. After reading about how much better the newer rigs are though in sever...

Those things can be annoying. Can be replaced with a crimp terminal insulated type and then you can squeezes them down as needed.

Are you running it with the 2WD engaged? (should never be on pavement let alone at those speeds) or is it just idling? Phasing should not be a factor if not engaged regardless. Driveshaft also has to be right per the phasing though I think you got that (a bit confused) Possibly bad U joints or insta...

Anything over 2000 rpm and you should have 14.5. Probably 1500 but 2000 is safe. Initial startup idle of 1200 or so you will get 13.5. Usual problems are the 6 pack of diodes in the alternator that turn it from AC to DC. The other is the regulator. Haven't worked on a Ural type, I think its all inte...

Damned sorry for the wreck, that sucks Agreed, get healed up and get a Ural. I have ruptured disk repaired and the Ural was my only way to get back into cycles (its not riding them, its dropping them and up on the center stand as I carry luggage to camp and side stand does not cut it - love the stab...

If I read it right you said you had checked the drain plug? If so, and no drip at it, then from another source and even then there should be residual drip after you put oil in it if it was the drain plug and the seal has a problem. I would still just put oil in it until I found the location of the l...

Yup, all pressed together

Thanks, good stuff. So the older crank just had more parts to be pressed together ?

I looked at replacement cranks and its listed as a one part with the con rods attached.

My experience was that once rust got into a cycle tank, it stayed in there via seams (guessing) So the answer was to prep it and clean as I could and then I got aviation fuel tank sealer. I flushed it half a dozen time prior and the rust kept coming back. After I had it sealed I never saw rust again.

Clean up the housing and using LED see if you can ID any oil. Its going to be pretty clear so hard but the traces are there. You can even throw some powder of one sort or another on it and see where it sticks (or not, ie at the bottom) If its all on the bottom and a drip on the plug, whalla, either ...

While I prefer current meters, Voltage is equally good, it just needs to be interpreted a bit. Basically a battery requires 14.5 volts to achiever a near zero current flow into the battery. Ideally 13 is better for long charges but its a balance between a fairly quick start recovery (recharge ) If y...

Now you went and did it. When I rode my home from there it rained and rained and rained, It was great... Yep, I got gully w@$#ed in Canada and then just across the AK border. Nice stable and putted on through them just fine. One trip on the R80GS (Skagway bound) I got into it that was so bad I had ...

In what turned out to be a fit of somewhat measured insanity I just picked up the cT in Portland and went Aircraft Museum touring. I had 2000 miles in when I got to Anchorage. I had a few hair raising close calls but I determined that I was just going to manage it and have fun and not worry about be...

This is our winter, 15 degree is my lower limit. No dog and the cat is not an option!

I wanted to spend time over in Tillamuck when I picked my Ural up in Portland. I had to camp to help defer costs. Sadly the temperature was 95 degree+ and the humidity combo was killing me. Bless the McMinnville Inn and a killer AC unit (60 degree in the room!) that I hid out in for two nights (one ...