Carb Float Adjustment

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Carb Float Adjustment

Postby URAL CT » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:27 pm

Hi Ya'll,
I have a 2007 Patyrol, can someone kindly advice me on how to check and adjust the carb float bowl height. Don't know if the Kehein need adjusting. If anything else, just FYI for me. Thanks for any input.
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Postby berger » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:51 pm

While this link is for the CVK40, it pretty much applies to our CVK 32 carbs. Scroll down for Float Adjustment....

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm

FLOAT HEIGHT

Drain the float bowl to check for water or other impurities. The float level is the first thing that needs to be checked when tuning your carb. If the level is too high, it can cause a rich condition, too low and it can cause a lean condition. If it's not set correctly, any other adjustments you make may have to be redone.

Kawasaki would love to sell you their gauge to check the height. But get a clear hose and attach it to the carb drain valve at the bottom and tape it up to the side of your carb. Put the bike on the center stand or otherwise make it level. Use an auxiliary gas can above the carb so it will continue to dump fuel. Or use the vacuum line and suck on it to open the petcock valve. Open the carb drain valve. Get a gauge or ruler and measure right where the carb body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose. Don't move the hose after you open the drain, or it could cause the reading to be high.

Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about .08" variance).If it needs to be adjusted, and the carb is already off the bike, the method in the factory manual is the easiest way to set the float height. It can also be done without removing it from the bike.

After disconnecting the gas and draining the fuel out, you'll need to rotate the carb and take the four screws off the bottom of the float bowl and remove it. Then push the pin out of the float boss and gently remove the float and float valve. The float valve will be hanging loosely on the float by a very thin wire that slips over a metal tang on the float. Bending this tang on the float (not the wire on the float valve), will raise or lower your float level. Just a small bend makes a big difference in the level, so it's best to make minute movements here.

Before bending anything, visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve and spray some carb cleaner and compressed air in the valve seat, to make sure nothing is blocking it open. Also see that the plastic float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Then check the level again and rebend if needed.
Berger

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carb float adj

Postby URAL CT » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:12 pm

Thanks Berger....now, can I just put the petcock on "PRI" and check the float (gas level) height that way?? I assume that I'm checking the float height whilt the carb is on the rig. If it need adjustments, I think I'll take the cab out. So, what the drill on setting up the float with the carb off the rig? Thanks
BTW...Berger...are ya going to the Tundra Run???
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Postby BillyG » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:39 pm

Just check the height with some clear tubing. If the level is close to the seam of the float bowl and carb. body you are fine. Don't get anal. If you have not turned the rig upside down in an accident or dicked with the float assembly in the past...you don't have a problem with the float level. It does not change without help.

A hair movement one way or the other on the float tag moves the fuel level a bunch. Here's a link to another site, near the bottom it goes over how to measure the "height" of the float (17mm). Read it at least 3 times before screwing around with the carb.

http://www.lonestaratv.com/information/ ... clinic.htm

Another less scientific approach is, with the petcock in the off position, drain the fuel bowl and measure the amount of gas obtained. 50cc + or - 10cc and the float height is fine.
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carb float bowl

Postby URAL CT » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:51 pm

Thanks BillyG.....I like this....simple & smart...
"Another less scientific approach is, with the petcock in the off position, drain the fuel bowl and measure the amount of gas obtained. 50cc + or - 10cc and the float height is fine." I know the Ural ain't necessarily a fine tuned swiss watch....but close....
So..tonight, after I get home and turned the rig off...I'll let it cool down a bit then whoop out my trusty old graduated beaker and drain the float bowl contents onto it. 50cc +/- 10cc
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Postby BillyG » Fri Jan 30, 2009 6:03 pm

Just remember...this method is swamp mechanics...you won't find it anywhere but Billy G's handy dandy "Unofficial 750cc Ural Service Manual" (shameless plug). Things like whether you have in-line fuel filters, their size, fuel boil off (hot carbs) after shut down, type compliance fitting (rubber or metal...heat transfer), how much crud is laying in the bowl and plain old evaporation among other things (accuracy of measuring device) will affect how much fuel is in the bowl when you go to drain it.

If you want to get real anal...and have a digital kitchen scale with "tare" (zero) feature...you could weigh each carb's dribble...somewhere I have that data too.

But it should pretty well be d@mn near that 50cc per side if your carbs are tuned correctly and in proper working order and you've run it recently. Yeah, like tonight :wink:
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carb float adj

Postby URAL CT » Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:31 pm

Alright....got home..let the rig cool off, took out my graduated/calibrated glass beaker (thanks Bro) and the results...left carb=45ml, right carb=40ml (1ml=1cc) OK..less than 50cc. & a tad low by swamp mechanic standards...but within the +/-10cc...Thanks BillyG...Do I adjust or leave the f%$# alone. Could this be the cause of my occassional burp??? when opening up the throttle???? Well...I'll be checking/adjusting the valves, set the carbs, change oil, etc.....in the morning...Tomorrow is another day.
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Postby BillyG » Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:58 pm

Nope...I'd leave it be.

If you have in-line fuel filters, delete them and use a single piece of fuel line.

Verify carbs are in sync. using the "looky touchy" method or a vacuum device of choice.

And remember the golden rule: Carbs is the absolute LAST thing you dick with. They are simple, almost never break or come out of adjustment (on their own :wink: ). So LITFA.
Last edited by BillyG on Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby nemec » Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:08 pm

Hallo,
Motor is running or is it off while checking float height?

on ural carb is not in line - must I put them on flat surface, or can I check float height on carb - in front of carb is float height higher, rear height is lower..

I have problems with low rpm - mixture is to lean (now I have 4shims under needle to run bike with no poping) - can be bad float height the reason?
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Postby BillyG » Fri Jan 22, 2010 6:38 pm

Use the clear flexible tubing as described in above posts to check fuel level in bowl while carbs are on engine. Engine should not be running. Carbs do not need to be level. Very simple procedure to perform.

Four shims are too much. Keihin carbs do not need shims. Shims do not correct idle problems.
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Postby nemec » Fri Jan 22, 2010 8:20 pm

BillyG wrote:Use the clear flexible tubing as described in above posts to check fuel level in bowl while carbs are on engine. Engine should not be running. Carbs do not need to be level. Very simple procedure to perform.

Four shims are too much. Keihin carbs do not need shims. Shims do not correct idle problems.


Idle is perfect, I have problems in cca 1/4 throttle - I have wrote this somewhere here on forum yet - with no shims there was a lot of poping in slow speeds and low rpm - shiming help with this problem..

Problems have began after changing filter and removin cats.
Enriching mixture in slow rpm is needed, I think..
this is it - from 0,40 -

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USb3M-MQYXU[/youtube]

I tryed tube - but have two various results - tomorrow I will try it once more -
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Postby BillyG » Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:51 pm

1. What are you attempting to show with the ColourTune plug?
Co se snažíte ukázat se plug jiskrou ColourTune?

2. Your float height is fine. Do not adjust your floats.
Vaše float výška je v pořádku. Don't upravit plováky.

Omluvte mé gramatiky, jak jsem experimentoval s mým překladem softwaru.
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Postby Dwight » Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:53 am

nemec wrote:Hallo, I have problems with low rpm - mixture is to lean (now I have 4shims under needle to run bike with no poping) - can be bad float height the reason?
Put larger low-speed jets in the carbs. I used a 42 pilot (low-speed) jet.

http://www.dwightrahl.com/carb-jetting.html

Good luck,

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Postby nemec » Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:00 am

BillyG wrote:1. What are you attempting to show with the ColourTune plug?
Co se snažíte ukázat se plug jiskrou ColourTune?

2. Your float height is fine. Do not adjust your floats.
Vaše float výška je v pořádku. Don't upravit plováky.

Omluvte mé gramatiky, jak jsem experimentoval s mým překladem softwaru.


:) :) what translator did you use?
sometimes it works, sometimes it don´t - automatic translate from slavonic lenguage to english is problematic - some sentences are translated good, some translate is poor.

More often I use only dictionary to translate words,them I don´t understand. Technically english is hard to understand for me - so some thread there on forum I don´t understand - I am not able to translate them.
Some word in english have for example 15 senses/words in czech - and contrariwise - I want to translate some word from czech to english and this word have a lot of senses/words in english..
:(

video and colortune shows, that I have problems with low throttle - idle is perfect, accelerating with half and more throttle is perfect too - I feel motor run good.

With no shims, there are problems while holding throttle in the same range cca 1/4-1/3 of throttle - after this range is reaction for throttle good. You can see it and you can hear it on this video - it begin with time 0:39 - motor is poping and running poor - colortune show the popping too.

With shims - 3-4 under needle, these problems are off/away - motor is running smoothly, no poping - low range of throttle is perfect.

Must say - 3 shims under needle put our dealer - after 10,000km I did a lot of thing in once - change filtr + removed cats + tryed removed shims - motor running bad in low range, so I returned 3 shims back - it was not still perfect, so now I have 4 shims.

Consumption is 8,8 l/100km with 4. gear - no matter if I go alone or with my wife.
Constumption is 8 l/100km with 3. gear

Idle mixture is lean - so I have idle screw on cca 3,5turns to have idle mixture ok - this is reason I will change pilot jet for fatter - 42

No secondary/false air, I think.

Still don´t know, why my low range is too lean..
Shimming helps, but is it the right thing to do?

On factorypro site I read, that low range is about float height, not about shimming needle. BUT - their "manual" is for action "full throttle from low end" - this is not my problem - my problem is staying in low end - holding 1/4-1/3 throttle - this range is lean.

In the other ranges motor running perfect, I think and I don´t have problems with overheating engine.



http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html
Last edited by nemec on Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby nemec » Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:09 am

Dwight wrote:
nemec wrote:Hallo, I have problems with low rpm - mixture is to lean (now I have 4shims under needle to run bike with no poping) - can be bad float height the reason?
Put larger low-speed jets in the carbs. I used a 42 pilot (low-speed) jet.

http://www.dwightrahl.com/carb-jetting.html

Good luck,

Dwight


I have bought some jets - pilot 42,45 and main 135 on ebay from seller in New Zeland on 10.12.2009 - but my shipment was lost, so now I waiting if I will get back my money, or seller will resend jets again. He said me "All our items are sent normal airmail, so there is no tracking,it is Saturday now, give 4 more days and then contact us and we will claim insurance on the items. They will then be replaced if you do not have them." - so I am patient - will wait for 4 days and then I will see.

Fatter main jet is not necessary, but need to have two 42 pilot jets.

I know you pages, they were usefull for me, thanks.
And Billy´s Unoficcial service manual is my favorite service page, thanks for it! :)
Ranger 2008 - 20 000km + trailer Beskydsport Kempík
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