Drain the float bowl to check for water or other impurities. The float level is the first thing that needs to be checked when tuning your carb. If the level is too high, it can cause a rich condition, too low and it can cause a lean condition. If it's not set correctly, any other adjustments you make may have to be redone.
Kawasaki would love to sell you their gauge to check the height. But get a clear hose and attach it to the carb drain valve at the bottom and tape it up to the side of your carb. Put the bike on the center stand or otherwise make it level. Use an auxiliary gas can above the carb so it will continue to dump fuel. Or use the vacuum line and suck on it to open the petcock valve. Open the carb drain valve. Get a gauge or ruler and measure right where the carb body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose. Don't move the hose after you open the drain, or it could cause the reading to be high.
Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about .08" variance).If it needs to be adjusted, and the carb is already off the bike, the method in the factory manual is the easiest way to set the float height. It can also be done without removing it from the bike.
After disconnecting the gas and draining the fuel out, you'll need to rotate the carb and take the four screws off the bottom of the float bowl and remove it. Then push the pin out of the float boss and gently remove the float and float valve. The float valve will be hanging loosely on the float by a very thin wire that slips over a metal tang on the float. Bending this tang on the float (not the wire on the float valve), will raise or lower your float level. Just a small bend makes a big difference in the level, so it's best to make minute movements here.
Before bending anything, visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve and spray some carb cleaner and compressed air in the valve seat, to make sure nothing is blocking it open. Also see that the plastic float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Then check the level again and rebend if needed.
BillyG wrote:Use the clear flexible tubing as described in above posts to check fuel level in bowl while carbs are on engine. Engine should not be running. Carbs do not need to be level. Very simple procedure to perform.
Four shims are too much. Keihin carbs do not need shims. Shims do not correct idle problems.
Put larger low-speed jets in the carbs. I used a 42 pilot (low-speed) jet.nemec wrote:Hallo, I have problems with low rpm - mixture is to lean (now I have 4shims under needle to run bike with no poping) - can be bad float height the reason?
BillyG wrote:1. What are you attempting to show with the ColourTune plug?
Co se snažíte ukázat se plug jiskrou ColourTune?
2. Your float height is fine. Do not adjust your floats.
Vaše float výška je v pořádku. Don't upravit plováky.
Omluvte mé gramatiky, jak jsem experimentoval s mým překladem softwaru.
Dwight wrote:Put larger low-speed jets in the carbs. I used a 42 pilot (low-speed) jet.nemec wrote:Hallo, I have problems with low rpm - mixture is to lean (now I have 4shims under needle to run bike with no poping) - can be bad float height the reason?
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