OK, so based on the comments on the subject, I decided over the weekend to whittle a new brake fulcrum out of a piece of 1/4 mild steel plate. I did a rough cut with the torch and then used a vintage Atlas metal shaper, the grinder and some filing to get the needed profile.
The 1/4 inch plate is a perfect fit in the frame pivot mount and the new part seem quite substantial and up to the task....this is not a piece one would want to have fail at the wrong moment.....
The whole thing could be done with a hacksaw, file, and drill press if you have the patience.... Something I'm in short supply of
I made the distance between centers for pivot points on both arms of the new fulcrum the same, using the longer arm on the original as the pattern for centers, and the angle of the arm.
I have to say that based on my "seat of the pants" testing the braking force is improved. I can now apply enough pressure to force the rear tire to lock...with my foot on the footpeg, something that I could not do before. It "feels" like brake force is improved: the front end actually depresses with just the rear brake applied.
As an observation, there is just not much movement in the overall rear brake linkage that transmits back to the brake, in spite of the travel of the brake pedal. The next piece to lengthen would be the arm on the back side of the brake lever pivot, but that will be more of a project to make.
Still, all in all, the new fulcrum was worth the effort.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
M4900 Kubota tractor
1994 Chevy S-10 4wd
1988 Chevy Suburban 4wd complete with factory Delco CB radio(....oops, just sold it)
1983 Isuzu Diesel PU
1970 Gamma Goat (finally sold the Goat, but I still have the stories)
1951 Norton International (in progress)
1951 Vincent Touring Rapide
1942 BSA WM-20 (uprated to M21 spec. 15hp)
1961 BSA A10 "Royal Tourist" (really)
And, lest we forget.... 2007 GearUp (Desert Camo "punkin orange")