BikerMage wrote:Would it be safe to use normal car oil in these Urals? Does anyone?
The reading I've done on the subject tells me that friction modifiers in car oil don't play well with wet clutches, hence the biggest difference between oils. But if the Ural is a dry clutch, that shouldn't matter, right? Of course, then it becomes a question with the transmission, and I have 0 experience with a separate transmission.
Maybe someone here can enlighten me.
Ever since I started riding in 2006, I have always used synthetic automotive oils. I even once used a 5w oil with friction modifiers in a wet clutch. Not a single problem.
Until recently, my drug of choice was Mobil1 15w-50, bought in a 5qt jug for a bit over $20. A few years back after many good reports, I've switched to Rotella T6 5w-40, a bit over $20 for a 4qt jug. I use it in everything, our cars and my bikes. I transitioned the Ural to T6 after the warranty expired.
The big difference between "motorcycle" oils and typical light weight automotive oils is the additive package, where with the excellent metallurgy of new motors, the additive package has been reduced for environmental reasons. M1 and T6 are still classified as 'diesel oils' and T6 has the Japanese JASO rating for motorcycles. Motorcycle and diesel oil have a bigger additive package, esp in the zinc department (ZDDP) for flat tappet protection.
I prefer full synthetics oils to resist sludging and extreme heat, esp in m/c motors.
It makes me laugh when folks cough up almost $20 for a single quart of motorcycle oil. Research at bobistheoilguy.com shows (or at least used to / I haven't looked in a couple years) that oil analyses are not much different between diesel, heavy weight automotive, and motorcycle oils.
Have a good one.