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Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:37 pm
by scip77
Albuquralque wrote:How close is the dealer to you to use the "dealer tool" to check your balance?


6km from dealer, but have to await shanghai dealer mail the laptop to share. Beijing distributor without dealer tool.

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:45 pm
by Albuquralque
Maybe you should wait and that way you can check what map you have loaded, get the OR 1.02 loaded, and check the balance at both idle and 3000 rpms.

That would be a good baseline to start with

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:16 am
by scip77
Albuquralque wrote:Maybe you should wait and that way you can check what map you have loaded, get the OR 1.02 loaded, and check the balance at both idle and 3000 rpms.

That would be a good baseline to start with


Got it! T hank you,

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:25 am
by Albuquralque
Keep us posted.......:lurker:

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 10:39 am
by scip77
Albuquralque wrote:Keep us posted.......:lurker:


Ride 200kms these 2days, readjust the tappet. Left cylinder dosenot works as good as right one the same As before. Engine sounds mess louder than other ones 2015 newer ural (not sure if the efi map difference) when throttle up at 1or2 gear it jump hesitate, when throttle down back fire at muffler. Big gas smell from pipe.

My bad luck get a poor quality ural? Any suggestion?

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 10:46 am
by gobium
Back fires sometimes due to incorrect valve settings.
edit.
do compression test. Make sure heads are not leaking due to bent valves

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:22 am
by scip77
gobium wrote:Back fires sometimes due to incorrect valve settings.
edit.
do compression test. Make sure heads are not leaking due to bent valves


Thank you for the reply, bent valves do you mean bent push rod? Compression test also sounds strange to me, I did not find any relative video on youtube.

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:35 am
by Wildhorse Cafe
Don't ride it until you take to to dealer for warranty repair. Case flashing would not be magnetic, Cam or lifters.

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 12:10 pm
by scip77
I will buy a valve presure meter tomorrow.

Hi wildhorse cafe, I got warranty repair. Camshaft and lifters changed.

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 12:18 pm
by Snakeoil
A bent valve means a bent valve stem. They usually bend near the head and this is the result of the valve hitting the piston. Only happens if valve timing is incorrect (mechanical change required for this), valve sticks in guide and piston hits it or engine was over-revved to point of valve float. When this happens the valve no longer seats and you get a compression leak. Bend an intake valve and it will backfire out the intake. Bend an exhaust valve and it will backfire out the exhaust. It will not run very well either and that cylinder will be down on power if it makes any power at all. I would have expected the shop that installed the cam and lifters to have inspected both heads to make sure all was well. It is a simple task to remove the valves and blue check the seats as well as check for straight stems.

I have no experiece with FI Urals. But I've read here that the early maps were severely lean. That would make it backfire out the carb as well as hesitate on acceleration. I imagine this is what everyone is talking about when they ask you which FI map you are running.

If you have a gasoline smell, and I mean raw gas not extremely rich mixture, then that cylinder is not firing or not firing all the time. That would make it backfire thru the exhaust because the exhaust loads up with fuel and then the hot exhaust charge from a firing stroke ignites it. Again, not familiar with the Ural FI system. But a question for those who are is, are the injectors known to leak? If so, you may be flooding that cylinder with a leaking injector. I may be wrong, but I would expect the fuel map to use the same map for both cyinders, so if one was improperly mapped, they both would be. Might be a bad assumption on my part. My point is, if that is the case and one cylinder runs fine, then the problem is downstream of the FI controller or in another system, like igntion.

I think it is time to get back to basics. You need to go thru all the systems that are required for the engine to run properly and make sure they are correct. Van's suggestion to run a compression test is part of that. The shop that did your rebuild can do one for you, or you can probably buy the gauge and do it yourself. A compression test is done by removing the spark plugs, grounding the plug wires, installing a compression test gauge in one spark plug hole and cranking the engine over with the starter while holding the throttle open. Record the highest reading. Then do the same on the other cylinder. They should both be over 150 psi and I would think 175 psi would be expected on a new engine. Others can comment on that point. Both cylinders should measure very near the same. If one is low, then you have a problem. Could be tight valve(s) clearance, bent valve, leaking head gasket, broken compression ring, seriously worn cylinder/rings (unlikely in new engine), poorly seated rings, cracked head, holed piston, and that's about it.

As you check out your systems, check everything. Make sure plug wires are well connected to the coil and to the plug cap. Check all ignition electrical connections. With everything confirmed in good condition, make sure it is adjusted properly and then functioning properly.

I've never done any FI troubleshooting, so can only guess at procedures. But if I were stuck far from a dealer and wanted to check things, I'd probably remove the injectors and see if either were leaking. I'd crank the engine and see how well they spray and if they spray equally well. I'd also look for leaky connections or restricted lines to the injectors if this is possible. Again, I'm thinking generally here since I don't know the Ural FI specifics. A question worth asking the FI experts here is, does the Ural FI have a rich, cold starting system? If so, is it possible for it to malfunction and make just one cylinder overly rich?

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 1:50 pm
by scip77
Hi, Thank you so much Rob, I think i understand. I will buy a gauge tomorrow. After check the valve psi and stem, i will install ejk on it. Maybe that could overpass the FI map, balance the injector works for now. Just try before update new map.

I have more and more confidence to fix any problem with all your help, thank you guys.

Best regards,
Ma

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 2:20 pm
by Albuquralque
Are you sure you adjusted all four valves according to the procedure?

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 2:24 pm
by Albuquralque
1. Take both valve covers off.
2. Rotate engine to TDC (look for mark on flywheel in timing hole)
3. On left side head, try to spin both pushrods with just your fingers. If both spin freely, then check head torque (no more than 36 ft lbs) and
adjust valves on this side.
If the pushrods don't spin freely on the left side, then try spinning them on the right side. If they spin freely on the right side, then check
head torque and adjust the valves on the right side.
4. Rotate engine around until you get to TDC again. Go to the opposite side of the engine that you just adjusted the valves on in step 3.
The pushrods should spin freely with just your fingertips. Check head torque and then adjust the valves on this side.
5. Put valve covers back on and test it out.

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 1:28 am
by scip77
Albuquralque wrote:1. Take both valve covers off.
2. Rotate engine to TDC (look for mark on flywheel in timing hole)
3. On left side head, try to spin both pushrods with just your fingers. If both spin freely, then check head torque (no more than 36 ft lbs) and
adjust valves on this side.
If the pushrods don't spin freely on the left side, then try spinning them on the right side. If they spin freely on the right side, then check
head torque and adjust the valves on the right side.
4. Rotate engine around until you get to TDC again. Go to the opposite side of the engine that you just adjusted the valves on in step 3.
The pushrods should spin freely with just your fingertips. Check head torque and then adjust the valves on this side.
5. Put valve covers back on and test it out.


Yes, I follow these steps exactly.

Re: oops, 4000miles oil change!! metal pieces.

Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 1:33 am
by scip77
I bought a gauge test compression. About Left 120psi right 110psi