Snakeoil wrote:When I rebuilt my 650, I got a NOS short block from Terry Crawford and pulled the crank out to put into my case. Inspection of the crank revealed some very nasty stuff in the oil slingers, which as you know feed the big ends. Someone here opined that the shortblock was used. But Terry's reputation for honesty precedes him and I even asked to reconfirm in case I had misunderstood. It was indeed a NOS short block. And the crud that I found was not what I would expect to find in a engine that had run. It was very gritty and almost like lapping compound. I did my best to clean the crank out and relube it before I assembled it. I'm sure if I had not noticed this, the life of the crank would have been extremely short. Based on this finding, I have a suspicion that mine was not the only crank to leave Irbit in this condition and may explain the poor bearing reliability and crank failures attributed to the early machines. But it also begs the question, was crank cleanliness still an issue in 2005?
Snakeoil wrote:The photo of the breather valve is a little fuzzy. Is that a ball bearing impact on the notch? Looks like it to me. Although I struggle with trying to envision how a ball bearing could get up into that area. Also looks too small for any of the bearings in the engine. If that is a spherical crater, makes you wonder what might have fallen into the engine during assembly in the factory. Maybe a dissatisfied employee was adding a special touch to the engines as they passed his work station.
Snakeoil wrote:I see a dial bore gauge in your pics. Obvioulsy you have been down this road before or do this for a living. Or you are the king of garage sale finds.
Snakeoil wrote:As I'm sure you know, the secret to good powder coat is all in the surface prep. My guess is Ivan is a bit challenged in the prep department. And aluminum seems to hate any kind of coating over the long haul. Once corrosion finds a source of O2, the game is on. Not sure what I would do in your shoes. I'd hate to have the cases blasted and coated again. I'd never feel confident I got all the sand out. I would probably just sand the raw edges smooth where it flaked off, scuff up the rest of the powdercoat and shoot the case with flat or satin VHT paint. Then future touch-ups would be possible. Other choice is to chemically strip the powdercoat and go with raw aluminum case. But that's not a fun job and you like the black engine.
I used Duplicolor engine paint in gloss black on my cast iron jugs and it looks good. Although it still stinks when I shut the bike down after a ride.
wooden nickel wrote:Twist the fender to remove or install. It helps to put blue tape in the fork dents on the fender to prevent scratching. It is also easier if two people twist the fender but can be done by one.
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