Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

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Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Paindoc » Wed May 09, 2012 11:25 pm

Noted over several months that my clutch has required frequent cable adjustment. I initially thought that the cable might be stretching or frayed and about to break. Other thought was premature wear of friction plates in clutch pack, but my clutch has never been abused or "smoked". Recently noticed that the cable is now pulling the lever arm all the way forward until it contacts the speedometer cable where it exits the top of the gearbox. Realized that the problem was that the actuator rod complex had become shorter! Started talking with Gurus and gathering parts for various scenarios, and then sudden retirement decision and move postponed and further action.

Nice weather and rapidly approaching SOUR Rally here in my new hometown forced my hand. Couldn't imagine a worse fate than a catastrophic failure during the rally. Oh, the Shame!

Took several days to dig through still packed boxes and bins and finally find the parts. Studied up on the process (Thanks Again BillyG!) and spent time staring at the bike deciding whether this could be done with engine and transmission left in frame.

Today I swallowed twice, took a deep cleansing breath and attacked! Gutsy to disable my rig with an important rally less than 48 hours away. Working blindly, I pulled the Cotter pin, tapped out the pivot pin, swung the lever arm aside and started pulling out the components of the rod assembly. First the slider, looking good as new. The O-ring is not even flattened. Then comes the thrust bushing and the clutch releasing rod. Hmmm, nothing that resembles a thrust plate/bearing. Oh Wait! The cage for the bearing is there, with one single ball still forlornly chasing itself around and around, and a little finger diddling in the clutch shaft channel retrieves a shred of brass? Amazing that the clutch still worked at all.

Design of the new parts is different. My 2007 had a different thrust bearing than the one shown in BillyG's manual. The new thrust plate does not have the hole and set screw in the end to retain the bearing. The overall length and function is the same. All the parts were wiped with silicone and inserted. I tried the rubber tubing technique described in BillyG's manual, but didn't feel that the square end had seated well in the clutch thrust plate. I added the thrust plate to the rod, and with firm pressure by finger on the end of the assembly, I used the kickstart to turn the engine/transmission over a few strokes. As I did so, I felt the rod drop farther into place! Placed the new bearing on the thrust plate and then pressed the lubed slider into the channel. Pinned the lever arm, added a new cotter pin, adjusted the cable and DONE! Quick ride to town confirmed all is well. Here's a couple pics of the offending parts:
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Darkblood » Thu May 10, 2012 6:57 am

BTDT. Mine bit the dust in February. I found that you only need to take the starter and airbox off to replace the parts. Bet it was nicer to do for you than it was for me considering it was 13 degrees F and I was sitting in the snow. :lol:
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby rougaroo » Thu May 10, 2012 9:00 am

Did anyone finally determine whether there is a good SKF replacement for that bearing? I remember somebody mentioning that Krytox/Moly might be needed on it, too.

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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Albuquralque » Thu May 10, 2012 10:03 am

rougaroo wrote:Did anyone finally determine whether there is a good SKF replacement for that bearing? I remember somebody mentioning that Krytox/Moly might be needed on it, too.

Rougaroo



The bearing is supposed to be lubricated by the tranny oil. That is why the clutch actuating shaft has an o-ring on the output side and a seal on the clutch side.
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby rougaroo » Thu May 10, 2012 10:33 am

Coluralado said:
The bearing is supposed to be lubricated by the tranny oil. That is why the clutch actuating shaft has an o-ring on the output side and a seal on the clutch side.


I agree - but there have been enough failures of that bearing to suspect that either the bearing is a RPOC or that it isn't getting sufficient lubrication - or maybe both. Like the alternator coupling bearing that is supposed to get its lubrication from the engine, this little shaft bearing is a long way from being in the flow of things. Unlike the alternator coupling bearings, Krytoxing it would be a breeze.

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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby BigJames » Thu May 10, 2012 8:55 pm

rougaroo wrote:Coluralado said:
The bearing is supposed to be lubricated by the tranny oil. That is why the clutch actuating shaft has an o-ring on the output side and a seal on the clutch side.


I agree - but there have been enough failures of that bearing to suspect that either the bearing is a RPOC or that it isn't getting sufficient lubrication - or maybe both. Like the alternator coupling bearing that is supposed to get its lubrication from the engine, this little shaft bearing is a long way from being in the flow of things. Unlike the alternator coupling bearings, Krytoxing it would be a breeze.

Rougaroo


Hmmm, might explain why both "clutch repair kits" I acquired and posted on Darkblood's clutch thread (and gave away at CRAP) have bearings in either some sort of plastic or bakelite sort of stuff, both of which have varying properties of lubrication over time. Think I see a part that needs to go into the emergency part stash...
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Niteblues » Wed May 16, 2012 2:27 pm

My clutch cable is adjusted completely out on all adjustment spots
(lever, and both spots on the engine). My first thoughts are that I have
fried another clutch, but maybe it's just this actuator thing instead and I
can save a bunch of money.

The clutch works ok in the beginning of a ride, but after a while (heats
up) it won't go into gear. I usually shut it off and put it in gear, then
start it with the starter motor. When I come to a stop sign though, it
wants to creep forward. If I put it into neutral, it won't go back into
gear without grinding massively.

If I just shut it down for a few minutes (let things cool off) it works
normally again.

I'm thinking (hoping?) that maybe the lever is not allowing the clutch to
be fully engaged and that when there is a bit of expansion from heat, that
the not-quite-pushing-the-clutch-in-all-the-way becomes an issue.

This thread gave me hopes that I have a similar problem, rather than the clutch disks being bad.

So while cleaning my airfilter, I took off the clutch release lever and picked out what guts I could get at:
P5160026.JPG


P5160001.JPG


I think it all looks fine; what say the collective?

I can't feel anything inside of the case with my pinky finger, and I can't really stick my head in there to look, so I took a picture of it. It doesn't tell me anything though...
P5160027.JPG


So I guess it all looks ok and my issue is still fail[ing] clutch disks. :(
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Darkblood » Wed May 16, 2012 2:39 pm

You still have a rod in there. Use a strong small rectangular magnet that fits in there to suck that road out and check to see if the square end is still attached. You have the old style and the square end has been knows to break off. It can also mushroom allowing it to go into the pressure plate further than designed to so don't panic yet you might still be in luck with a cheaper solution. You have the old style and I've seen those on ebay for about $20.00.
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Niteblues » Wed May 16, 2012 2:47 pm

Thanks Mike! :bow:

...unfortunately, I don't have a magnet :(
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Darkblood » Wed May 16, 2012 2:48 pm

niteblues59 wrote:Thanks Mike! :bow:

...unfortunately, I don't have a magnet :(



got a magnetic screwdriver? Piece of fuel line to push over the end of the rod and hold enough to pull it out?
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Niteblues » Wed May 16, 2012 3:37 pm

I think I found the problem!
4.JPG


7.JPG


When I tried to acuate the clutch lever, the clutch release lever hit the case. :?

So no matter how much adjusting I did, the release lever is never going in far enough. It actually looks like someone spun that clutch slider around 180 degrees at one time, but it is now worn through on that side too. :(

I'm thinking I should order a new release lever and a new clutch slider...and that rubber O ring thing too so the oil doesn't weep outta there any more.

And maybe my clutch disks are still serviceable :D

Is the class in agreement with me?
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Darkblood » Wed May 16, 2012 3:46 pm

It looks a bit worn in there. If it's steel throw a weld bead in there to build it up a bit and try it before condemning it.
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Albuquralque » Wed May 16, 2012 3:57 pm

One more hint on getting the release rod out. I bought a long pair of forceps from Harbor Freight. Reached right in there and pulled it out. I think they cost me $2 or $3 dollars.
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Niteblues » Wed May 16, 2012 4:07 pm

Just got off the phone with Holopaw Gene...

The part that the arrow is pointing to is actually the end of the actuator rod! It's broke.
1a.jpg


...which means there is nothing there for me to get with the forceps :oops:

I'm going to split the case from the tranny and push it out from the inside. Gene will have the parts on their way first thing in the morning...I should have them by Friday.
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Re: Clutch actuating rod failure and replacement.

Postby Albuquralque » Wed May 16, 2012 4:11 pm

Glad you finally got it figured out and it should be up and running for this weekend!!! :clap:
"Put a little gravel in your travel"

Darrell - Albuquralque
2014 Patrol - Babe the Blue Ox
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Previous Urals Owned: 2004 Wolf, 2006 Tourist, 2006 Patrol (TOW), 2006 Patrol (TOM)


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