Front Break Woes.

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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Darkblood
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Front Break Woes.

Postby Darkblood » Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:12 pm

Yesterdays ride was great but I noticed the front brakes were weaker than they should be so since I was doing an oil change today I figured I'd pull the pads and see how they looked. I figured they were gummed up since that has been the case in the past.
Well upon pulling them out and giving them a quick squirt of brake cleaner this is what they looked like.
Image
Image
Crap that doesn't look right at all they aren't wearing evenly. :( Time to dig a bit deeper (I figured I had a piston that might be a bit sticky so time to check that out. Well as I was about to do that I noticed that the caliper wasn't centered over the disk but was canted a bit pointing the front of the caliper toward the hack nose. Well this would explain the uneven wear but WTF???
Checking the arm that hangs it from the back of the leading ilnk no obvious bends but it looked really weird where the bushing is. The nut was sucked inside the mounting hole and thus the arm had slipped toward the tire by about 3/8". :? This is strange as I know it's tight.
I could just get on the nut to loosen it up with a thin walled 17mm deep well socket and took the whole contraption apart figuring the bushing was shot.
When I took it off I found out what had kept it from completely falling out.
Image
That picture is the back side of the connecting arm and the smooth round spot at the end was polished by the side of the front tire.
Here is the bushing
Image
and here is the hole in the front end where it's supposed to go.
Image
Well the bushing wasn't great but was far from shot so my solution was to put it back in there add a washer the same size as the bushing to get a few more threads to tighten it down and then to add a slightly over-sized washer to keep it from backing out of the front end and tighten it down with the lock nut.
She looks so sad when she's in pieces... :cry:
Image
At least these biked come with a handy place for tools and parts.
Image
Well after that I went out to several local MC shops hoping I could find replacement pads. The first shop that sells Yamaha, Kawasaki, BMW bikes was interesting. I went to the parts/service counter and asked if they had pads for Brembo Brakes and the parts person said what are those. :?
I pointed to the front end of a Yamaha in the show room that had Brembo's on it and said like these.
30 minutes later he hands me what he said was the right part number based on the numbers on the back of the pad I brought in. Um no go. The pads were about 3 times as thick and there would be no way in hell that they would go into the caliper so I said thank you for trying and left. Honda shop was a quick "Nope sorry"
Online order it is then. But for now it's clean them real good and put them back in so I can ride it.
So to add to the list of pre flight checking check that bushing on the front end that holds the caliper in place. I'm just glad it was smooth enough not to catch the tire and shred it on me.
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby MartyL » Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:19 pm

Holopaw Gene sells the pads at about 35.00 a set. Might as well get a couple of other small items with it as he would put it in a U.S. post office one rate box if you get it from him.
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Albuquralque » Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:30 pm

Call the local shops back up and see if they have - Front Disc Brake Pads = EBC FA244 (Organic).

You want to make sure you get the organic style/.
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Darkblood » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:00 pm

Coluralado wrote:Call the local shops back up and see if they have - Front Disc Brake Pads = EBC FA244 (Organic).

You want to make sure you get the organic style/.


No one had it in stock so they would have to order it as well. Ended up going with the local shop for $36.00 as they don't charge me for shipping. Will be getting a second set once this set shows up just to have on hand. (At least the oil change went without a hitch) :lol:
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby S 854 » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:50 pm

Ya have a Victory shop nearby? IIRC, they use the same pads as us... course we have much more fun wearin' ours out than they do... :wink:

One other thing... It's been a while since it's been discussed, but the front brake is typically for use going forward only... don't use it in reverse (if you can help it... if the rig's "gettin' away from you" rollin' backwards, do anything you need to stop it...)

The brake stay arm on the newer rigs is a bit more substantial than in the past, but still, that's quite a bit of energy to put on a piece of mild-steel bar stock...
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Msblu79 » Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:09 pm

Must be all our 2010's are wearing out the front pads about the same time. :lol: Saturday morning I went to push the bike out of the garage and I heard this scraping sound coming from the frontend. I pulled it back in and pulled the front pads or what was left of them. The pad material was as thin as a credit card and had just started to touch bare metal. Thankfully I had bought an extra set of HH pads from Heindl recently and went about the task of cleaning it all up and installing the new ones. The rotor had just a tiny scar so I will let the pads clean it up I hope. I got 20,000 klicks out of my original set which isn't bad considering it's the only real brake on the 800lb. rig. :lol: Got lucky having the pads on hand, didn't think I would need them this soon but no big deal, got to get another set now for the voodoo spares box. :lol: :cheers:
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Darkblood » Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:17 pm

S 854 wrote:Ya have a Victory shop nearby? IIRC, they use the same pads as us... course we have much more fun wearin' ours out than they do... :wink:

One other thing... It's been a while since it's been discussed, but the front brake is typically for use going forward only... don't use it in reverse (if you can help it... if the rig's "gettin' away from you" rollin' backwards, do anything you need to stop it...)

The brake stay arm on the newer rigs is a bit more substantial than in the past, but still, that's quite a bit of energy to put on a piece of mild-steel bar stock...


I'm going to do some more looking around tomorrow for anything else that might be loose. The bar is still straight but it might just get some extra metal on top and bottom to make it into an I beam.
Tomorrow will be steering bearing day. Would be working on the front wheel bearings but I manager to break the pin wrench today and now I need to find a new one and there is no way to take the wheel apart without it. :x
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby cdscoot » Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:39 pm

Darkblood wrote:
S 854 wrote:Ya have a Victory shop nearby? IIRC, they use the same pads as us... course we have much more fun wearin' ours out than they do... :wink:

One other thing... It's been a while since it's been discussed, but the front brake is typically for use going forward only... don't use it in reverse (if you can help it... if the rig's "gettin' away from you" rollin' backwards, do anything you need to stop it...)

The brake stay arm on the newer rigs is a bit more substantial than in the past, but still, that's quite a bit of energy to put on a piece of mild-steel bar stock...


I'm going to do some more looking around tomorrow for anything else that might be loose. The bar is still straight but it might just get some extra metal on top and bottom to make it into an I beam.
Tomorrow will be steering bearing day. Would be working on the front wheel bearings but I manager to break the pin wrench today and now I need to find a new one and there is no way to take the wheel apart without it. :x

I just don't know where you get the energy from ......... to keep that thing running! :lol: :lol:
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Darkblood » Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:57 pm

I figure if I can start a fix and still ride it on the same day it's a good thing.... :lol:
At least I now know what size the pin wrench is.
45 mm span
4 mm pin diameter
5 mm pin length
So I can find one online easy enough but want to find one with replaceable pins so the go all the way through and are held on with a nut because when a pin lets go OUCH.
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby n3303j » Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:10 pm

Darkblood wrote:I figure if I can start a fix and still ride it on the same day it's a good thing.... :lol:
At least I now know what size the pin wrench is.
45 mm span
4 mm pin diameter
5 mm pin length
So I can find one online easy enough but want to find one with replaceable pins so the go all the way through and are held on with a nut because when a pin lets go OUCH.

Your 2010 has sealed bearings?
Unless you run submerged or pressure w@$# they should be fine @ 20K.
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby grumpie » Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:15 pm

Mike, the
Victory dealer is in Augusta, Bloins, not sure if they will have what you need and the only other is in Oxford and they stock a lot of parts
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Darkblood » Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:24 pm

pfhague wrote:Mike, the
Victory dealer is in Augusta, Bloins, not sure if they will have what you need and the only other is in Oxford and they stock a lot of parts


Thanks, I thought it was in Augusta.....of course there's closer parts right here in town..... :lol: I think there is a Black patrol about 6 miles away and a Victory parked behind that... :wink:

Actually North Country could order them and they should be here in a couple days. They still work just not at 100% so I tightened the rear and hack a bit and leave a lot more room between me and other traffic. Heck I drove a jeep for years that had nearly no brakes at all so this is nothing new.

If nothing else I'm building up a maintenance record for if I ever sell the bike. I can just say look on Soviet Steeds Hammerin and Wrenching and you can take a photo tour of everything that has been done to the bike. :roll:
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Re: Front Break Woes.

Postby Darkblood » Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:27 pm

n3303j wrote:
Darkblood wrote:I figure if I can start a fix and still ride it on the same day it's a good thing.... :lol:
At least I now know what size the pin wrench is.
45 mm span
4 mm pin diameter
5 mm pin length
So I can find one online easy enough but want to find one with replaceable pins so the go all the way through and are held on with a nut because when a pin lets go OUCH.

Your 2010 has sealed bearings?
Unless you run submerged or pressure w@$# they should be fine @ 20K.



I guess you missed the ride report "unplanned oil change".......yup it's been submerged.....that's why I'm going through most of it piece by piece.
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