Possibly Helpful Stuff

Here is where the best of "how to" posts and instructional videos will be posted. No more sticky posts clogging up the General Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section
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This is the place for the best of & "How to" posts, please post your stuff in the General Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section and the admins or moderators will move them to this section if they are worthy.
vodka driver
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby vodka driver » Fri May 03, 2013 1:44 pm

For my stock 10 Gear Up, the carb drain screw correct part is Kawasaki P/N 92009-1551 and purchased two from http://www.partzilla.com P/N ""75-92009-1551" for $4.50 each and $1.75 freight. Partzilla adds a "75" to the front of the Kaw number. The first and wrong drain screw I ordered was Kaw P/N 92009-1095. Both were listed as options for the carb, but 1551 was the right one for me. In the picture, 1551 has the allen wrench attached.
Now to find a float and needle valve.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
2010 Gear Up--Roksana

captainzoom
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby captainzoom » Tue May 07, 2013 12:53 am

first rate, no dealership " only game in town"

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a1930ford
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby a1930ford » Tue May 07, 2013 1:58 am

:lurker:
Last edited by a1930ford on Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby gamecock » Thu May 16, 2013 9:30 am

Relays - RY-115 are NAPA Part: AR143

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Albuquralque
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby Albuquralque » Tue Jun 11, 2013 3:30 pm

URAL PARTS, CROSS-REFERENCED
From viewtopic.php?f=5&t=81
Original list by, & edited 3 times by Fat Mack - last time on Thu Jul 26, 2007 ... I just tidied up a bit, added from comments since Fat Mack quit updating
(Parts differ between 650 & 750 Urals ... & ... there undoubtedly are errors in this list ... but if you use it judiciously, it might shorten your search)
I've tried to keep w/ Fat Mack's format & redundant topical entries ... if some redundancies have been missed, let me know.
CORRECTIONS & ADDITIONS ARE APPRECIATED (please include your year & model)
For a starter, there seems to be a discrepancy re: Brake & Running Light Bulb numbers.

Additive, Fuel: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Additive, Gasoline: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Air Box Hose:**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/ a parts dept & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com

Air Filters:
K&N: E-2470 from store.knfilters.com
NAPA: 7-02204, SME 702204, 702204; 7-02228, SME 702228, 702228
Stens 100-040 paper filter
Kohler 235116-S paper filter
I would not put heavy money on the flow rate but they are the same size as the reusable filters. Would do in a pinch & cost less a few dollars. I see them online for <$5. There is a foam pre-filter from Stens (100-750). I would think it would be useful if you were eating a lot of dust.

Air Intake Hose:
Air Box Hose:**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/ a parts dept & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ www.wicksaircraft.com

Alternator Gear Woodruff Key: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)
Alternator, Generator, Starter Repair part source, w/pictures & some dimensional drawings www.alternatorsparts.com/products.htm

BATTERY: www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/ural-bat ... moval.html
Interstate #YTX20L-BS
Odyssey #PC680
Wal-Mart #ES20LBS

BEARINGS:
Clutch shaft: one 6205 Ball Bearing; one 12204 Roller Bearing
Crankshaft: SKF6207
Main shaft: two 6304 Ball Bearings
Steering Head: from http://www.cycleworks.net, or BMW #31412 from Ural or vintage BMW dealers
Wheel Bearings (all): Timken 30204, 30204M 9\KM1, (Universal #30204) (are these needle or ball bearings?)
Sealed Wheel Bearing is National 204f. Fits my new 08. I think its the same size as the 650's.

Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)

Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156

Brake Pad Tension Spring
BMW brake pad spring for a 1975 R75 motorcycle. BMW #34-21-1-457-091 (& $2 cheaper than the Ural spring)
It was a bit shorter than the Ural spring but I think that's because the Ural spring that was undamaged had gotten stretched a bit from over 18km of usage. It went on just fine & in minutes my brake pads were back in place & wheel mounted. I've been riding on it for 2 days now with no issue. Picture: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... -that.html

Breather Hose, Crankcase (fitting to air filter box) NAPA #28401 @ $0.78 / ft.

BULBS
Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W
(http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0
Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156

CAP, GAS: NON-LOCKING Stant 10817
= CST (Cooling Systems Technology) #6817 for $7.50
= Beck/Arnely #159-0042
= IMC Motorad #240-46001-672
= MGC 815, 816, 817, or 822
CAP, Gas: Curtis HD75 (for Honda) fits my 2011 Tourist.
LOCKING Gas Cap (Filler Neck Dia 1.75") GM caps are supposed to fit … Stant 10591
The cross reference it's a 1982 Ford Granada Regular Threaded Fuel Cap.
COMMENT: considering you have dangling fuel lines that can be pulled off of fittings under the tank ... a locking gas cap will only keep the stupid from stealing your gas (& it might keep them from pi$$ing into your tank)

CARBURETOR AIR INTAKE HOSE:
**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12 after tax. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. Don't have the part number right now, but I'll post it soon so you can find it for yourselves. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/a parts dept. & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com

Carb: Keihin CVK32 Jets:
Main 99101-393
Idle: N424-25B

Carburetor, Keihin: 2004 & 2006 Suzuki LT-A400 4-wheelers (& some other models) use the same Keihin CVK32 carburetor that the late model Urals do. My local Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki dealer actually had some parts for the carbs on the shelf (the tiny little idle mix screw O-ring for example & parts can be ordered on line at a discount if you can wait for delivery. Below is link to a parts fiche for the carburetor from Suzuki Parts Nation website, the dealers use the same parts fiche.
http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pages/... 6011010012 .... no longer a valid link

Clutch Shaft Bearings: one 6205 Ball Bearing; one 12204 Roller Bearing

Coil, Ignition: Accel Power Pulse Coil with Accel 8mm Wires

Connector, Headlamp: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Cotter Pins: 2x20; 3.2x20; 3.2x32; 4x12; 4x36; 5x45; 8x16

Crankcase Breather Hose (fitting to air filter box) NAPA #28401 @ $0.78 / ft.

Crankcase Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50

Crankshaft Bearings: SKF6207

Crankshaft Rear Main Seal: Butyl Chicago Rawhide #21642 or VITON 21641
Crankshaft Rear Seal: NAPA #66524 50mm x 70mm x 9mm (see above?)

Cylinder Rings: 4 cylinder Ford (Hastings) Rings fit the the 650 & 750 Urals

Deep Sump:
Kenneth Ulrich; 1486 County Road DB; Mosinee, Wisc 54455; (715) 693-6201; Machrat@aol.com
Part 8.101-01131.01 @ http://www.imz-ural.com/accessories

Drain Plugs:
Transmission, Crankcase, or Final Drive: M14 x 1.50
Helicoil: http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN ... _37149.htm, Metric M14-1.50
Magnetic Drain Plug: ES#5385 @ http://www.ecstuning.com

Drain Plug Crush Washer, for Oil Drain Plug: Honda M14 Crush Washer #94109-14000

Drive Shafts - U-Joint:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/ Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft U-Joint is 1979 MGB or MG Midget, they both use this extremely common joint.
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.
Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk Fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

Drive Shaft Seal Collar: (IMZ-8.103-6205334) 33mm x 49.5mm x 8mm

ELECTRICAL:
Battery: Interstate #YTX20L-BS; Wal-Mart #ES20LBS; Odyssey #PC680 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/u ... moval.html
BULBS:Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W
(http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0
Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Ignition Coil: Accel Power Pulse Coil with Accel 8mm Wires
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Relays: Standard Motor Products relay RY-115; Stant EL 13 CarQuest
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156
Spark Plugs: NGK - BP7HS, Autolite 273, Bosch WGBC, Champion L82YC, Denso W22FP-U 650
Spark Plug wires: Belden 701002; NGK #8048 @ http://www.parts-unlimited.com

Filters, Air:
K&N: E-2470 from store.knfilters.com
NAPA: 7-02204, SME 702204, 702204; 7-02228, SME 702228, 702228

Filters, Fuel:
Metal (opaque):
Plastic (see-thru): SKU 111 209 190 @ http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com
Others: WIX #33011; NAPA #3011 or 3030?; CarQuest #86011; EFI #GF95; Purolator #F21124; FRAM #G4164; AC Delco #GF461;

Final Drive Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50
Final Drive Oil Seal that keeps the final drive lubricant from getting past the splines into the brake area (and then down an overflow drain tube that exits ~1.5" in front of the final drive drain bolt) is Napa P/N 17750, ~$10. It's 60 x 45 x 8.

FLUIDS:
Additive, Fuel: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)
Fuel: 91-Octane Unleaded (89 works fine)
Engine & Gearbox Oil: Premium Grade SAE 20W/50 petroleum based detergent oil designed for air-cooled engines.
Final Drive Oil: Premium Grade Automotive 90 EP gear oil
Spindle Oil/Industrial Spindle Oil: ZoomSpout
For Non-Specific Lubrication Points: Pusser’s Fix-all or WD-40

FUEL:
Fuel: 91-octane unleaded (89 works fine)
Fuel additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)
FUEL CAP: NON-LOCKING Stant 10817
= CST (Cooling Systems Technology) #6817 for $7.50
= Beck/Arnely #159-0042
= IMC Motorad #240-46001-672
= MGC 815, 816, 817, or 822
CAP, Gas: Curtis HD75 (for Honda) fits my 2011 Tourist.
LOCKING Gas Cap (Filler Neck Dia 1.75") GM caps are supposed to fit … Stant 10591
The cross reference it's a 1982 Ford Granada Regular Threaded Fuel Cap.
COMMENT: considering you have dangling fuel lines that can be pulled off of fittings under the tank ... a locking gas cap will only keep the stupid from stealing your gas (& it might keep them from pi$$ing into your tank)
FUEL: Carburetor: 2004 & 2006 Suzuki LT-A400 4-wheelers (& some other models) use the same Keihin CVK32 carburetor that the late model Urals do. My local Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki dealer actually had some parts for the carbs on the shelf (the tiny little idle mix screw O-ring for example & parts can be ordered on line at a discount if you can wait for delivery. Below is link to a parts fiche for the carburetor from Suzuki Parts Nation website, the dealers use the same parts fiche.
http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pages/... 6011010012 .... no longer a valid link
Fuel Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)
Fuel Filters:
Metal (opaque):
Plastic (see-thru): SKU 111 209 190 from http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com
Others: WIX #33011; NAPA #3011 or 3030?; CarQuest #86011; EFI #GF95; Purolator #F21124; FRAM #G4164; AC Delco #GF461; BOSCH #71936
Fuel Line: 1/4"
Fuel Line Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.
GAS CAP: NON-LOCKING Stant 10817
= CST (Cooling Systems Technology) #6817 for $7.50
= Beck/Arnely #159-0042
= IMC Motorad #240-46001-672
= MGC 815, 816, 817, or 822
CAP, Gas: Curtis HD75 (for Honda) fits my 2011 Tourist.
LOCKING Gas Cap (Filler Neck Dia 1.75") GM caps are supposed to fit … Stant 10591
The cross reference it's a 1982 Ford Granada Regular Threaded Fuel Cap.

COMMENT: considering you have dangling fuel lines that can be pulled off of fittings under the tank ... a locking gas cap will only keep the stupid from stealing your gas (& it might keep them from pi$$ing into your tank)

Gas Cap Key: ILCO X84 HD4

Gas Line Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.
Gasoline: 91-Octane Unleaded (89 works fine)

Gasoline Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Gear, Alternator, Woodruff Key: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)

Grease: Lithium-Based Automotive Chassis Grease

Headlamp: H6014; Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W,
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

HOSES:
Air Box Hose:**Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. If you want it now, go to a John Deere w/ a parts dept & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should carry it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com
Hose, Crankcase Breather (fitting to air filter box) NAPA #28401 @ $0.78 / ft.
Hose, Fuel: 1/4"
Hose, Fuel: Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)

Ignition:
Coil: Accel Power Pulse Coil with Accel 8mm Wires
Key: ILCO 1526R; ILCO X258; ILCO 1098 B1, X109 FT43
Spark Plugs: NGK - BP7HS, Autolite 273, Bosch WGBC, Champion L82YC, Denso W22FP-U 650
Spark Plug Wires: Belden 701002; NGK #8048 @ http://www.parts-unlimited.com

Inner Tubes: MSR HD 110/90-19 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/ural-tub ... ement.html

Input Shaft Seal: 32mm x 45mm x 8mm

Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)

INTAKE HOSE, AIR: **Use the following hose between the air box & carbs. It is a John Deere piece of flex hosing that will run you ~$12 after tax. It is super easy to put on works/looks great on my '99 patrol. They ARE flexible & you hit & bump them all day w/o having to worry about knocking them off. Go to a John Deere w/a parts dept. & show them your current boot & ask if they have some flex tubing that would fit it. They should have it in stock.
Air Box Hose: 21047 Gates Radiator Hose
Air Intake Hose: NAPA 8539; NAPA NBH 8539 (cut in 1/2 makes 2); CEET-8 @ http://www.wicksaircraft.com

Joint, U - Drive Shafts:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/ Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.
Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk Fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

K-750 (early) & M-72 transmissions (still used on 2006 Ural Transmissions)
Output Yoke Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 35x48x8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8
Main Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): two 6304 Ball Bearings
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

Keihin Carburetor: 2004 & 2006 Suzuki LT-A400 4-wheelers (& some other models) use the same Keihin CVK32 carburetor that the late model Urals do. My local Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki dealer actually had some parts for the carbs on the shelf (the tiny little idle mix screw O-ring for example & parts can be ordered on line at a discount if you can wait for delivery. Below is link to a parts fiche for the carburetor from Suzuki Parts Nation website, the dealers use the same parts fiche.
http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pages/... 6011010012 .... no longer a valid link

Keys:
Gas Cap: ILCO X84 HD4
Ignition: ILCO 1526R; ILCO X258; ILCO 1098 B1
Woodruff, for Alternator Gear: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)
Woodruff, for 4th Gear: 6mm x 6.5mm

Kick Starter Shaft Collar Seal: 20mm x 40mm x 10mm

LAMPS:Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156

LIGHTS:Headlamp: 6012 is standard, H6014 is slightly brighter (for trucks); Sylvania Silverstar H6024 = $26, H6024XV, Neolight NL-910H44W (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/u ... ement.html)
Headlamp Socket: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Bike Running Light: 97 (5w)
Bike Turn Signal: 1156
Brake Lights: 1156 (http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/02/h ... -bulb.html)
Indicator Lights (High Beam, Alternator, Neutral and Turn): Sylvania 2721 (1.2W)
Instrument Lights (Speedometer Face): Sylvania 3893 (4W vs. 3W)
Sidecar Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Sidecar Lights, Other: 1156

Line, Fuel: 1/4"

Line, Fuel: Disconnects: If you don't want to spend a fortune, McMaster Carr sells quick disconnect fittings that are probably the same ones that Raceway, Sprucegoose Aviation (?), etc. are reselling. I bought these and the parts have been in service on my rig for >2 yrs now with no leaks or problems. I am not where I can measure it at the moment but I'm pretty sure the balance (cross over) line is 1/4 ID and these are what I bought:
5012K85 1/4 ID hose barb plug w/shutoff valve (male) $5.86 each
5012K82 1/4 ID hose barb socket w/shutoff valve (female) $6.67 each
Acetal bodies, stainless latch, and Buna-N O-rings, are all resistant to gasoline and weather. Shipping <$5.
Fuel Line Quick-Disconnects http://www.morethanmotorcycles.com/Ural ... ccessories
A fuel spill is inevitable when removing the Ural fuel cross-over line. These proven inline nylon/stainless steel quick-disconnects will make that problem go away once installed. Simply press the tab and the male and female disconnects separate. The tab lock stays "cocked", simply push them together and the spring-loaded tab locks them together again. Supplied with 12" of EPO-NBR gasahol and MTBE additive resistant fuel line, in addition to 4 Helix-type hose clamps.

LUBRICANTS:
Engine & Gearbox Oil: Premium Grade SAE 20W/50 Petroleum-Based Detergent Oil designed for Air-Cooled Engines
Final Drive Oil: Premium Grade Automotive 90 EP gear oil
Fuel Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / gallon of fuel)
Grease: Lithium-Based Automotive Chassis Grease
Non-specific Lubrication Points: Pusser’s Fix-all or WD-40
Spindle Oil/Industrial Spindle Oil: ZoomSpout

M-72 & early K-750 transmissions (still used on 2006 Ural Transmissions)
Output Yoke Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 35x48x8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8
Main Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): two 6304 Ball Bearings
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

Magnetic Drain Plug: ES#5385 (http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_... uctID=5385)

Main Shaft Bearings: two 6304 Ball Bearings

Main Shaft Seal: (IMZ-8.103-04015) 36mm x 48mm x 7mm

Mirrors: get 10 mm Lt Hand Thread & 10 mm Rt Hand Thread Honda Mirrors

OIL:
Engine & Gearbox Oil: Premium Grade SAE 20W/50 petroleum based detergent oil designed for air-cooled engines
Final Drive Oil: Premium Grade Automotive 90 EP gear oil
Spindle Oil/Industrial Spindle Oil: ZoomSpout
Fuel Additive: Marvel Mystery Oil (1 ounce / 1 gallon of fuel)

Oil Filter: EMGO #10-26960

Oil Seal, Final Drive: that keeps the final drive lubricant from getting past the splines into the brake area (& then down an overflow drain tube that exits ~1.5" in front of the final drive drain bolt) is Napa #17750, ~$10. It's 60 x 45 x 8

Output Yoke Seal: 35mm x 48mm x 8mm

Phenolic Headlamp Socket: High Temp Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin# ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Pins, Cotter: 2x20; 3.2x20; 3.2x32; 4x12; 4x36; 5x45; 8x16

Plugs, Drain:
Transmission, Crankcase, or Final Drive: M14 x 1.50
Helicoil: http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN ... _37149.htm, Metric M14-1.50
Magnetic Drain Plug: ES#5385 (http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_... uctID=5385)

PLUGS, SPARK: NGK - BP7HS; Autolite 273; Bosch WGBC; Champion L82YC; Denso W22FP-U 650

Rear Crankshaft Seal: NAPA #66524 50mm x 70mm x 9mm

Relays:
Standard Motor Products Relay RY-115
Stant EL 13 CarQuest

Rings, Cylinder: 4 cylinder Ford (Hastings) Rings fit the the 650 & 750 Urals

SEALS:
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing

Crankshaft Rear Main Seal: Butyl Chicago Rawhide #21642 or VITON 21641 (see below?)
Drive Shaft Seal Collar: (IMZ-8.103-6205334) 33mm x 49.5mm x 8mm
Final Drive Oil Seal that keeps the final drive lubricant from getting past the splines into the brake area (& then down an Overflow Drain Tube that exits ~1.5" in front of the Final Drive Drain Bolt) Napa #17750, ~$10. It's 60 x 45 x 8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8

Kick Starter Shaft Collar Seal: 20mm x 40mm x 10mm
Main Shaft Seal: (IMZ-8.103-04015) 36mm x 48mm x 7mm
Output Yoke Seal: 35mm x 48mm x 8mm
Rear Crankshaft Seal: NAPA #66524 50mm x 70mm x 9mm (see above?)
Transmission Output (Rear) Shaft Seal: NAPA #13941 35mm x 48mm x 8mm
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

Shafts, Drive - U-Joint:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.

Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk Fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

Sidecar Lights:
Rear Running/Brake Light: 1157
Other Sidecar Lights: 1156

Socket, Headlamp: High Temp Phenolic Replacement Socket for Headlamp. ~$6+ Napa LS6235, Echlin Part Number: ECH LS6235
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... d3%26N%3d0

Spring: Brake Pad Tension
BMW brake pad spring for a 1975 R75 motorcycle. BMW #34-21-1-457-091 (& $2 cheaper than the Ural spring)
It was a bit shorter than the Ural spring but I think that's because the Ural spring that was undamaged had gotten stretched a bit from over 18km of usage. It went on just fine & in minutes my brake pads were back in place & wheel mounted. I've been riding on it for 2 days now with no issue. Picture: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... -that.html

Steering Head Bearings: @ http://www.cycleworks.net, or BMW #31412 from Ural or vintage BMW dealers

Sump, Deep:
Kenneth Ulrich; 1486 County Road DB; Mosinee, Wisconsin 54455; (715) 693-6201; Machrat@aol.com
Part 8.101-01131.01 @ http://www.imz-ural.com/accessories

Tension Spring: Brake Pad Tension
BMW brake pad spring for a 1975 R75 motorcycle. BMW #34-21-1-457-091 (& $2 cheaper than the Ural spring)
It was a bit shorter than the Ural spring but I think that's because the Ural spring that was undamaged had gotten stretched a bit from over 18km of usage. It went on just fine & in minutes my brake pads were back in place & wheel mounted. I've been riding on it for 2 days now with no issue. Picture: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... -that.html

Tires - Inner Tubes: MSR HD 110/90-19 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/ural-tub ... ement.html

Transmission Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50

Transmission Output (Rear) Shaft Seal: NAPA #13941 35mm x 48mm x 8mm

Transmission Parts for M-72 & early K-750 transmissions (still used on 2006 Ural Transmissions)
Output Yoke Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 35x48x8
Input Shaft Transmission Seal (K-750 & M-72): 32x45x8
Main Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): two 6304 Ball Bearings
Clutch Shaft Bearings (K-750 & M-72): one 6205 Ball Bearing, one 12204 Roller Bearing
Woodruff Key for 4th Gear (K-750 & M-72): 6mm x 6.5mm

U-Joint - Drive Shafts:
U-Joint: CarQuest #111/1-0300 w/ Zerk Fitting
Driveshaft Rear U-Joint (old style shaft, not sure on new style with rear splines) joint is the similar to the BMW, 19mm x 44.40mm, Spicer #K5-A766, the Spicer has no lube capacity, being packed only. The Ural part comes w/ Zirk fitting that cannot be gotten to w/o dropping the shaft to gain joint flexion. Your list is right on for the sidecar drive shaft but NOT for the inline main driveshaft.
Sidecar Driveshaft U-Joint (w/ Zerk fitting): Precision 341; NEAPCO 1-0300; NAPA 111X; WESCO 201-581; or AMGAUGE 581

WHEELS:
Wheel Bearings (all): Timken 30204, 30204M 9\KM1, (Universal #30204) (are these needle or ball bearings?)
Inner Tubes: MSR HD 110/90-19 http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/01/ural-tub ... ement.html

Wires, Spark Plug: Belden 701002; NGK #8048 @ http://www.parts-unlimited.com

Woodruff Keys
For Alternator Gear: 3 mm (same as VW Beetle, ALL, 1938-1979 generator or alternator equipped)
For 4th Gear: 6mm x 6.5mm
"Put a little gravel in your travel"

Darrell - Albuquralque
2014 Patrol - Babe the Blue Ox
EFI Map OR 1.02
Throttle Body Vacuum Ports
K&N Air Filter
Raceway 2-into-1 Header (Right Side)
Previous Urals Owned: 2004 Wolf, 2006 Tourist, 2006 Patrol (TOW), 2006 Patrol (TOM)

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vetsurginc
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby vetsurginc » Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:06 pm

FYI on air filters:

The NAPA 7-02204 is a very close fit to the Russian foam filter for a 2011. I was able to get it in without removing the airbox, but it took a little patience.

The NAPA 7-02228 is slightly larger diameter and very stiff. It is not going in the 2011 airbox without removal of the whole box. Too stiff to bend around the tank ears (at least for chicken me) I'm not up for removing the whole box for filter change so this one goes on the shelf in a zip-lock

I noted both of these are for pre-filters for various equipment.
Doug
2011 GearUp Vasily (Васи́лий) Main 125, idle 38, Raceway needles, and stock exhaust, MKIII air filter
2010 R1200RT Gustav
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hotmamaandme
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby hotmamaandme » Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:33 am

I just bought one of the Wal-Mart #ES20LBS battery's, any feedback?


My 2007 still has the original battery which hasn't shown any signs of problems yet. I just thought since i had my air box out I would check it and maybe replace it. I don't have the removable top plate I have to remove my air box it get the battery out. So i just thought why not check or change it. So walmart had one so i bought it.










8-18.13

no response means this thread dosnt get much looking or no one has actually tried the walmart battery. So Let me be the first. Its an exact size match for my 2007 ural stock battery. Comes with the fluid you put in then seal it up so there is no more fooling with fluids in the future just like the stock battery. Once filled let sit for 1 hour then charge 6-8 hours then install. fits perfect and the bike starts. I think for the convince of the walmart down the street having one when i wanted one and the price of $79 its reasonable. $9 core charge take your old battery back and get your $9 core back.
Cory is my name I'm the "me" part in my screen name.
Your attitude makes it an adventure.

2007 Arctic Gear Up LE
DR350
Honda Transalp
So many others in the past.

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ignition key/paint color

Postby nbsdave » Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:21 am

got one for my 2011 at Ace Hardware
Ilco N1069B R013
it will be too thick by a smidgen, sand or use grinder to take off about one or two thousandths
cheap and easy to find

to match the paint on my T model, I used Rustoleum High Heat Black as the bike paint is not actually flat-more of a matte finish and this does well
keep your word, no excuses
Ural-it's not just another motorcycle!
2011 Ural T, now only a memory

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Lokiboy
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby Lokiboy » Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:10 am

In "Best of" - look under carb section:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=28897

k. Ordering carburator replacement parts:
http://www.bikebandit.com/1998-triumph- ... #sch564640

I think you can get the parts you need
2011 Gear Up - "Erika"
Yorktown, VA

Mains: 127, Idle: 40, Needle: 1 shim
MKIII air filter
70,000 km and counting

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Ohio3Wheels
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby Ohio3Wheels » Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:54 pm

On Linda's 2013 Tourist the Brake/Tail Light on the tub is a dual filament 1157 all the other lamps are either 1156's or 97's

Ride and ride safe,
Curt Givens, KC8STE
Dayton, OH
Spyder Driver 2012 Viper Red RT-S aka "Bug"
Wife - 2013 Black Tourist aka "Drakon"

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stevemarine
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby stevemarine » Wed Aug 28, 2013 7:05 pm

Hey fat Mack,
You defiantly have done your time behind a wrench. Thank you for sharing with us all. I have a annoying thing with my 60's k750 and I hope perhaps you can shed some light on this for me. When the bike is cold it goes into reverse. But when it's hot it won't go in. Have you ever experienced this? Any advice would be most welcome.
Thank you so much!
Steve

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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby flying eyeball » Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:30 am

Are these the brake pads to get? EBC FA244HH

I can't seem to find any other part #'s :foilhead:
Josh

'05 Patrol

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Albuquralque
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby Albuquralque » Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:38 am

flying eyeball wrote:Are these the brake pads to get? EBC FA244HH

I can't seem to find any other part #'s :foilhead:



I know the EBC FA244 is right. Not sure what the HH is for. Make sure you get the organic ones.
"Put a little gravel in your travel"

Darrell - Albuquralque
2014 Patrol - Babe the Blue Ox
EFI Map OR 1.02
Throttle Body Vacuum Ports
K&N Air Filter
Raceway 2-into-1 Header (Right Side)
Previous Urals Owned: 2004 Wolf, 2006 Tourist, 2006 Patrol (TOW), 2006 Patrol (TOM)

flying eyeball
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby flying eyeball » Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:56 am

Coluralado wrote:
flying eyeball wrote:Are these the brake pads to get? EBC FA244HH

I can't seem to find any other part #'s :foilhead:



I know the EBC FA244 is right. Not sure what the HH is for. Make sure you get the organic ones.



Thanks for the reply, Darrell.

It's just a part # I found here on SS

Here's the description

Double-H: High friction superbike/race sintered formula. Double-H sintered pads offer the maximum brake effect and a lifetime approximately double that of any organic pad. Add H to end of part number.

I want to be able to source these locally...
Josh

'05 Patrol

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Albuquralque
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Re: Possibly Helpful Stuff

Postby Albuquralque » Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:35 am

I know people have used the HH style. I've just always have gone into my local Japanese bike shop and bought the FA244 Organic pads.
"Put a little gravel in your travel"

Darrell - Albuquralque
2014 Patrol - Babe the Blue Ox
EFI Map OR 1.02
Throttle Body Vacuum Ports
K&N Air Filter
Raceway 2-into-1 Header (Right Side)
Previous Urals Owned: 2004 Wolf, 2006 Tourist, 2006 Patrol (TOW), 2006 Patrol (TOM)


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