winter storage?

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
tony.moore
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winter storage?

Postby tony.moore » Sat Dec 03, 2016 8:33 pm

hey all,

i have a 2016 ct that i bought earlier this year as a return to cycling after a 25+ year hiatus.

the temps have started to fall under the 30's here in southern ohio, and i've resigned to storing the ural for the winter. i'll be storing it in an unheated garage.

can anyone share any tips or thoughts on storing it for the winter?

thanks,

tony

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Bilgekeeldave
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Re: winter storage?

Postby Bilgekeeldave » Sat Dec 03, 2016 8:51 pm

I don't do anything but put a float charger on the battery.
Dave

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hawksbe
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Re: winter storage?

Postby hawksbe » Sat Dec 03, 2016 10:03 pm

I would think at a minimum change the oil and put sta-bil in the gas (a full tank), as well as a float charger on the battery. If you want to go further, some fogging oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes and then turn them over with the kickstart (no ignition).
2016 Ural Gear Up (Sahara)
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rivers
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Re: winter storage?

Postby rivers » Sun Dec 04, 2016 1:10 am

For planned winter layup I would change the oil and stabilize the fuel and plug in a battery tender. Where I live I block the air cleaner intake and cover the exh outlet with screen. If mice decide to winter in the can it's pretty rude when the can spits 1/2 doz pink peanuts (mouse babies) on to the shop floor. Only other suggestion is don't go out and start it up occasionally. You're doing more harm than good. If you're gonna start it go ride it for 10 miles or so till you get the motor up to full operating temps.
Joe
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immulmen
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Re: winter storage?

Postby immulmen » Sun Dec 04, 2016 6:41 am

Someone has to say it..........Change the oil from 20-50 to 10-40 and ride it!
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1997 Ural converted to 2WD With Chang OHV engine.

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Tomcatfixer
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Re: winter storage?

Postby Tomcatfixer » Sun Dec 04, 2016 7:09 am

The only thing that I can contribute that hasn't been covered above is that, after you add the Sta-bil to your fuel tank, go for a ride to both mix it and to ensure that the additive makes its way to your fuel lines and injectors. That ethanol gasoline doesn't sit well, so it's important to make sure the fuel stabilizer is present in all parts of your fuel system.
- Chad

Virginia Beach, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 1999 Ural Tourist "Desert DisGrace: the Iron (Oxide) Curtain", 1994 Honda VFR750F, 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazer

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2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
1986 Yamaha FZX700S (a different one than above)

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Re: winter storage?

Postby Albuquralque » Sun Dec 04, 2016 10:55 am

Winter storage for a Ural?
"Put a little gravel in your travel"

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Re: winter storage?

Postby stagewex » Sun Dec 04, 2016 11:06 am

Can't you just start it once or twice a month if you are not going to ride it?
The bike is manufactured and ridden in Siberia.
Snow & Ice is your friend. Only Salt isn't.
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rivers
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Re: winter storage?

Postby rivers » Sun Dec 04, 2016 2:49 pm

stagewex wrote:Can't you just start it once or twice a month if you are not going to ride it?
The bike is manufactured and ridden in Siberia.
Snow & Ice is your friend. Only Salt isn't.

Bad idea. By-product of buring gasoline is H2O. Some of the combustion gases get past the rings into the crankcase and condense into water. No getting around it, just part of the deal with all internal combustion engines. W/O running the motor up to full operating temps to cook off the moisture/water accumulated in the oil just adds more water to the oil. Either park it and leave it alone till spring or start it and ride it till fully warmed up. Your motor, your call.
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GHGoodwin
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Re: winter storage?

Postby GHGoodwin » Sun Dec 04, 2016 3:20 pm

Great time to get to know your ride. A thorough inspection is in order. Take the time to pull some things apart. I'd go for removing the light housings and inspecting all bulbs. Find your relays. Take out battery. Maybe take off the wheels for practice. Make a list of supplies and stuff you want for spares. Go through the bikes tool kit.

All good advice above. All I can add is to check your tire pressure and roll her around a bit now and then.
Hal

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Re: winter storage?

Postby Siberian Mule » Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:10 pm

Rule of thumb with an aircraft engine, if you're going to start it up, run it for at least an hour to cook the moisture/acid out. An oil sight gauge can be an interesting thing. Alarming to see how much moisture suspends in the oil after a short warm-up.

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tx2sturgis
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Re: winter storage?

Postby tx2sturgis » Sat Dec 17, 2016 1:43 pm

Do this, do that, do this, no dont do this, do that.


Wow...this is like asking what oil to use.

Most of us dont store these for the winter, but in 'salt' country, I can understand.

Unheated garage is fine. Air-cooled metal motorcycles (with nothing to freeze, other than battery electrolyte) do NOT need heated storage, no matter what anyone else, here or anywhere, says. Period. In fact, cold storage reduces oxidation. If there are small air leaks and drafts in the garage, like under the door, its OK as long as its venting air, and hopefully not rain or snow coming in.

Just be sure to keep the battery on a maintainer.

Change the oil, all three places: Crankcase, gearbox, and final drive. This will remove any and all moisture in those oils.

Add some fuel stabilizer like Seafoam or Startron to the gas in the tank and run the engine long enough to bring the stabilizer into the FI system..

If possible ride the bike for 5 minutes to circulate everything.

Fill the gas tank to maximum, right up to the top. This displaces air in the tank and prevents moisture in the gasoline/ethanol from causing rust in the tank. It also reduces surface area for moisture in the atmosphere from being absorbed by the ethanol. If you can find pure gasoline, with zero ethanol, I highly recommend you fill the tank with that.

As an alternative, you can completely drain the tank...I prefer not to.

Put the center stand down, lifting the rear tire off the ground. Pull the rubber mats out of the sidecar and trunk and store them separately. Empty the sidecar trunk and prop the lid open an inch or two with a block of wood. Its OK to leave the tools and airpump in there, but you dont want anything in the trunk that can leak or freeze, like water, flashlight batteries, sunscreen, etc.

Hook up your battery tender (maintainer) and make sure it is charging.

Attach a tarp, cover, or plastic sheet loosely over the bike, to keep the accumulating dust to a minimum.

Close the garage door and go have a beer! (gobium inspired!) :cheers:

Check on the maintainer once a week or so, or at LEAST once a month. Do not start the bike all winter unless you plan on riding it for 10 minutes or more, but its not a bad idea to slowly stroke the kick starter a few times with ignition off during storage to move the pistons around.

When you first ride the bike in March or April, let us know, we want to hear about the ear-to-ear grin on your face when she fires right up, ready to go!

:thumbsup:
---Brian
Republic of Texas

2013 Ural Solo sT


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