BinDerSmokDat wrote:Installation took about 45 minutes, most of that removing the strut bolts. And fidgeting with the damper angle mounts to keep them at the correct angles while tightening the hardware.
I don't know why the instructions say to jack the bike and raise front wheel, I just removed the nut, only problem is the bolt is little short, with barely enough thread. I used some medium strength Loc-Tite until I can pick up a longer bolt.
Just wanted to provide an update. The damper has now been on two challenging rock strewn Central PA off-road rides with a lot of pavement thrown in and just completed the longest JDH hunt in history with mud, tons of whoop-de-doos, bumps and jumps.
The damper performed great, no problems and I've never even come close to bashing it.
I never even bothered to replace the shortish bolt mentioned above.
There is ONE small detail I feel should be mentioned, it's more a function of design than a product fault.
The stock friction damper provides a steady, predictable amount of resistance. The force is the same starting off from a stop to taking a bump at full speed.
A hydraulic damper resists proportionately to the input it receives.
It's similar to taking your hand and slapping it down on the surface of water, versus slowly bringing your hand down and pushing through the water.
So when you are going slow, the friction damper has plenty of resistance, while the hydraulic damper feels a little mushy, but quickly responds and controls oscillation.
On the other hand, at speed, a big bump can overwhelm the friction damper, especially off-road, but the hydraulic damper absorbs it better.
So just be aware. The hydraulic damper is the infinitely better product and the bike is much more under control especially off-road.