Need paint gun advice...

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harryball
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Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Thu Feb 18, 2016 12:16 pm

OK, I've used a lot of paint guns from the Wagner CrapoSprayer to gravity cup, HVLP, pressure cup, siphon feed, direct feed air, pressure pot etc... but I have never sprayed automotive paint onto metal, only latex onto bat houses or sheet rock walls.

I have a quart of Forest Green mixed up for my wife's 2010 Patrol from the local auto paint shop to paint over the sidecar repaired damage. He was not a wealth of information when it comes to guns, he just pointed to a $480 HVLP gravity cup gun.

When I have the "bad spot" all fixed up, the area sanded with 400 grit, taped off and ready to spray... I'd rather not experiment with a $70 quart of paint but nothing else I have is the same consistency as this stuff. (single application, 3 parts paint + 1 part activator)

I have what I believe is this gun (or close to it, had it for 10 years), http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200343114

Whatever gravity feed HVLP gun I use... what size tip would I need? Spraying latex requires 2mm or larger (I think I have a 2.4mm in it right now) I can't imagine that's going to work for automotive paint.

Suggestions welcome, complete newb to painting anything with wheels on it.
---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

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harryball
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Thu Feb 18, 2016 1:03 pm

For reference...

IMAG0172_1.jpg
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---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

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Subsnowden
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby Subsnowden » Thu Feb 18, 2016 1:58 pm

Hoestly the cheapo paint guns from Harbor Freight aren't too bad. More of a one time use gun though. They are cheap enough to justify a new one for new jobs. It all depends on how much painting you do. I have painted cars with them and as long as you prep properly and use a good technique for laying the paint down it will come out just fine.
Jon
Central Texas/Copperas Cove
2012 GSXR-750
2015 Ural Gear Up
No longer own a car

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INSUBORDINATOR
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby INSUBORDINATOR » Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:01 pm

I would personally use a single stage paint, built up in a couple of coats & rubbed out. I see you have your reflector masked, I would remove it (1 nut), & remove the Patrol decal- you can get another. To get the best job, consider painting the side panel all the way back to the door - which will only leave a feathered seam of about 6" below the door. I'd also paint the entire top front panel - on around down under. Cover all areas not to be painted (from overspray).
No Idea what kind of gun to use with multi part paint - which I won't use.
One reason I like black is they are so easy to touch up.
Current Motorcycles: 02 Ural Tourist, 2010 modified Royal Enfield G5 Deluxe.

"Be who you are & say what you feel. Those that matter won't mind, those that mind - don't matter."

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harryball
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:58 pm

I am using a single stage paint, i.e. there is no clear coat needed. The catalyst is mixed in to significantly decrease the cure time and add UV protection (so as it was explained to me) and I could use it without catalyst if desired but cure times for re-coat go from a few hours to 24 hours. I told him I was spraying outside not in a booth... he handed me that catalyst and said you're going to want this or you'll have a fuzzy sidecar for sure.

I plan to basically repaint the entire car back to the nearest cut lines (seams etc...) and have started the sanding process. The reflector is actually glued on, no bolt, I'm going to remove it with some string, just the guy that did the dent repair (I didn't do that) taped it over to keep primer off of it. There is virtually no bondo on it, the guy beat the dent back out and smoothed it with several different tools. I would have stopped there myself, but then he skimmed it with what looked like bondo and practically sanded it all back off, then primed it. It is perfectly smooth... with your eyes closed you cannot find the dent by rubbing your hand around.

With a quart I've got enough to probably repaint the bike 3 times so I can afford a little practice first. I'm going to remove the sidecar fender and hit it as well. The rest will be touch ups here and there with a brush for dings.

I have a U-Pol bedliner kit on order. Plan to undercoat the bottom and the insides once I get it painted... this rig is turning into a full time job.
---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

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Lmo
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby Lmo » Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:25 pm

Lew Morris
Pismo Beach, California, 93449.
1963 (?) Dnural w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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harryball
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:49 pm

That was helpful. I actually found a Porter-Cable PSH1 I forgot about. It has a 1.5mm tip on it. Not a cheapy HVLP like the other one's which all have 2.0mm or larger on them. So, I'll be giving this gun a try soon. Sanding now... ehh, not fun.
---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

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Lmo
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Location: Pismo Beach, CaliFornica via Gnaw Bone, Indiana

Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby Lmo » Thu Feb 18, 2016 9:28 pm

Sanding now... ehh, not fun.


Awww now, ya know it is! Beats workin'!!! :boogie:
Lew Morris
Pismo Beach, California, 93449.
1963 (?) Dnural w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

steelsmith
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby steelsmith » Sat Feb 20, 2016 11:15 am

Hi Harryball! Since I have enjoyed your posts here on SS I feel I owe you a debt, so in this instance I can pay that back! Single stage paint as you describe can be effectively shot through those 'cheapy' guns from Carquest, NAPA and various other automotive suppliers. I would recommend you buy or borrow an HVLP gravity feed 1.3 paint gun. This will allow you to use most if not all of your sprayable material. If you look around you can buy a set of 3 guns for around $100.00. These aren't great guns but, you aren't going to know the difference. The 1.8 tip size is for primer/thicker viscosity paint. The 1.3 is for single-stage paint or clear. 1.1 is for base-coat. All of that should be prefaced by the disclaimer that, this is presuming you are using 'budget' level automotive paint, like from Carquest or NAPA, which tends to be thinner viscosity. Better quality automotive paints tend to be thicker viscosities because, they contain more quality ingredients.
For you this is a one-time deal, you only have one quart of material. To practice, paint your fender seperately, prior to painting your tub. This will allow you to try you hand at automotive paints which are very different from house paints. If you screw it up, wipe off the paint with 'prep-sol' before it hardens, allow it to dry and shoot it again! Don't mix up more paint than you intend to shoot, it has a very short 'pot-life'.
Good luck!

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harryball
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Sat Feb 20, 2016 1:33 pm

Thanks for the info. I'm actually using U-Tech U500 single stage with catalyst. It is supposed to be a quality paint, not ultra cheap. Didn't set out for that so much as the auto paint store that sells it was the only one near by that could computer match the color.

Given it is a "better" paint do you think the 1.5mm tip will suffice?
---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

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harryball
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Location: Georgia
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Sat Feb 20, 2016 6:36 pm

Well... it's green. Not the best paint job in the world but a heck of a lot better than it looked without one. I learned a considerable amount... like 1 quart of paint is enough to paint about 8 rigs. That stuff goes a long way.

I ended up with a bit of a texture but the color match is extremely close. I don't know if I can do anything about the texture, I practiced on a sheet of steel to get it where it was best. I was hoping the paint would "self level" and it did to a degree but not glassy smooth at all.

Ahh well, looks good enough, on to the undercoating inside and bottom!
---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

steelsmith
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Location: Texas gulf coast, Rockport/Fulton

Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby steelsmith » Wed Feb 24, 2016 8:03 pm

Hey, Harryball sorry I missed the window to communicate with you concerning your pending paint job. As you found out, the 1.5 tip was a good choice for your project, since you are using a 'better' quality paint. Matching viscosity to tip size is always a bit tricky. Next time you try your hand at painting, if you get 'orange peel', just adjust your time between coats, close up a bit on re-coat time and it will lay-out a little more. If you re-coat too soon, the paint will tend to sag, you want to avoid sagging/too soon recoating as it can create 'solvent pop' (trapped solvent) which is a whole bunch of pin-holes.
Painting is a compromise, orange-peel is tending toward too much time between coats or too much distance from the surface being painted. You want to wait long enough between coats for the previous coat to 'flash-off' (you should be able to touch a piece of tape that has been coated with paint and have it not pull away leaving strands sticking to your finger).

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harryball
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Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby harryball » Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:55 pm

Thanks, not a problem. It doesn't look bad, I've seen worse paint come out of professional body shops.

Reading your post... I would say I allowed to much time between coats. What I find odd, on my practice plate (a flat sheet of steel) there is no orange peel at all... Go figure.
---
2008 - Tourist - "Ursula" / 30mpg / 32k as of 9/2017
2010 - Patrol - "The Rattler" / 32 mpg / 53k as of 9/2017
K28 tires on both rigs, pusher gets about 6000 miles give or take.
3/8" toe in and 2.5 degree lean
Robert
http://HabitatForBats.org - Give a bat a home!

steelsmith
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Location: Texas gulf coast, Rockport/Fulton

Re: Need paint gun advice...

Postby steelsmith » Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:34 am

If you painted that practice piece of steel while it was laying flat, that would allow the paint to 'lay down' by gravity assist. Next time mount your practice piece vertically, that is the true test. You could then adjust distance from surface and re-coat times accordingly.


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