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rivers wrote:OK, I'll bite what is "factory undercoating" ?
Its a 600 dollar factory option to have the bottom of the tub and inside fenders covered in a durable paint/sealer. I guess for added corrosion protection like the stuff used in pickup truck beds. I have no experience with it on a Ural but plenty with a Jeep and pickup truck.
Last edited by scan on Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
One Qt. can of solvent $5.99 One pad of scotchbrite $ .99 Two rolls of masking tape 1" & 2" $6.00 3 spray cans of Truck Bed Liner $18 Elbow grease...FREE Google up "How to" or follow instructions on can. $31.00 Vs $600
Proper preparation is 80% of the job. Take it slow, and do it right.
Didn't know it was even avail from the factory. Something not really needed here in WA so the dealer never mentioned it. Even if I lived in the rust(salt) belt I would pass at $600. Lot cheaper to do it yourself. Not fan anyway. In the 60's in MI having a new car Ziebart coated was common/expensive and help for awhile but eventually the coating cracks, wears, etc and at those points road salt water gets trapped under the coating and festers there to get reactivated every time it rains. Seen worse rust on undercoated cars than non coated. Doubt Ziebart is still in business. I guess IMZ finally gave up powder coating sheet metal on the 016's. Which is good since they've had a problem getting dry paint to stick properly. Hope they do better with wet paint. In any case if the paint wet or dry isn't adhered well to the metal covering it up with yet another coating on top isn't going to make the orig paint stick any better. Just more mess to clean up when the orig paint bubbles and sloughs off. I would think with you being in CA sheet metal rust would be a non-issue? Even in WA where it's wet 10 months a year only rusted sheet metal is in the tub and very minimal where it grows outward from the drain holes in the tub. Found that removing(throwing away) the goofy floor mat thats just trapping moisture forever helps a lot. I'd rather have scuffed up floor paint from use than rust. Just my thoughts.
I've had Ural tubs completely disintegrate from rust. The worst areas are where the different body pieces are pressed and welded together.
I think you're better off just keeping the thing as clean as you can, though, and using wax- or grease-based products as a seal. Hard undercoating will chip away and then the chipped areas will trap moisture and promote rust. And the areas you would typically undercoat aren't the parts that get rusty anyway, not at first.
I've been keeping all fasteners and body welds covered with a thick clear military surplus grease, and anywhere I notice rust start to form I hit it with the stuff. So far, so good.
I just recently did it myself. Take the tub off, clean it, can't say w@$# it, etch it, put on seam sealer, then use bed liner on both the inside and bottom of the tub. I used spray on duroliner. Worked great.
2003 HD Ultra Classic - Sold 1969 Honda Trail 90 - Sold 2011 BMW R1200GS Triple Black - gave away 2000 custom softball - gave away 2011 KLR 650 -Sold 2013 Ural Gear Up